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Bryan
Legend 35
I purchased an '88 35 Legend 6 months ago, which is the same boat you are looking at. Check out the archives and owner reviews for more information. The 35.5, which was introduced in '89 or '90, is not that different, I believe it shares the same hull but has some changes in interior layout, cabin, and transom. So check out the reviews for the 35.5 for additional information. I did a lot of research before deciding to buy my 35. The comments on the 35/35.5 have been overwhelmingly positive, and I have heard it was Hunter's most successful line. Based on my research, the most common complaint about the 35 Legend is leaking from the overhead skylights. Typically, owners have to recaulk them annually. Mine are starting to leak now. My other problems have been: 3 of the plastic port hatches had been over-dogged by previous owners, causing the supporting brackets to crack (the previous owner had sealed them closed!). The bearings on the Hood continuous line furler are apparently starting to wear and thus I am replacing the continuous line drum (which I can't stand anyway) with a single line furler drum. Some cracking and crazing of the gel coat. I have heard of some problems with sanchions. Some boats have had some blisters, I have a few on mine. Most of it is regular 12 year old boat stuff. On the positive side, everyone raves about the Yanmar's reliability, the boat sails very nicely (and I have heard quite fast in appropriately skilled hands), motors well, and is very roomy and comfortable. It is thoughtfully designed. I love my boat any don't regret having bought the 35 one bit.
I purchased an '88 35 Legend 6 months ago, which is the same boat you are looking at. Check out the archives and owner reviews for more information. The 35.5, which was introduced in '89 or '90, is not that different, I believe it shares the same hull but has some changes in interior layout, cabin, and transom. So check out the reviews for the 35.5 for additional information. I did a lot of research before deciding to buy my 35. The comments on the 35/35.5 have been overwhelmingly positive, and I have heard it was Hunter's most successful line. Based on my research, the most common complaint about the 35 Legend is leaking from the overhead skylights. Typically, owners have to recaulk them annually. Mine are starting to leak now. My other problems have been: 3 of the plastic port hatches had been over-dogged by previous owners, causing the supporting brackets to crack (the previous owner had sealed them closed!). The bearings on the Hood continuous line furler are apparently starting to wear and thus I am replacing the continuous line drum (which I can't stand anyway) with a single line furler drum. Some cracking and crazing of the gel coat. I have heard of some problems with sanchions. Some boats have had some blisters, I have a few on mine. Most of it is regular 12 year old boat stuff. On the positive side, everyone raves about the Yanmar's reliability, the boat sails very nicely (and I have heard quite fast in appropriately skilled hands), motors well, and is very roomy and comfortable. It is thoughtfully designed. I love my boat any don't regret having bought the 35 one bit.
R
Rod Leonard
Bryan on buying a new 35 Legend
Bryan thanks for the response. You confirmed what I thought. I have wanted one for years.
Bryan thanks for the response. You confirmed what I thought. I have wanted one for years.
J
John
Legend 35 Comments
We've owned a 35 since new in 1988 and spent nearly all that time getting it into a good cruising machine. Things to look for: 1. Skylight leaks: Ours leaked until July of 98 when I finally figured out how to stop the leaks. I wrote a detailed description which should be in the archives. The long and the short of it is to ensure there is a gap between the Lexan and the coach roof (horizontally and vertically). On the 35.5 models Hunter used "bump-ons", a 1/16-inch neoprene stick-on spacer undeer the Lexan - this keeps the sealant from being squished out under the screws. Secondly, in the horizontal direction, there must be a significant gap, say, 3/8-inch minimum. The sealant must be able to stretch like a rubber band. In places my gap was less than 0.003-inches! Thirdly, countersink the screw holes on the underside of the lexan and into the coach roof - this helps to create a sealant washer. Fourth, drill the screw holes a little larger - this allows sealant to go between the screw and the Lexan. Use Dow sealant (#895?)which is available from Hunter parts department. Note that Bayliner uses Dow also! My recommendation is to use Black as this is more resitive to sunlight. To get a uniform width appearance around the skylights I used masking tape and went for about 5/8 to 3/4-inch width - it looks good! 2. Ports: Again, see the archives for more detail. The same reasoning applies. I bought new Bomar ports (really makes the boat look years younger!). Where the port goes through the coach roof (on the outside), file or grind the edge of the hole to a 45-degree angle - gives more room for the sealant to stick. Note that the trim rings come with a 45-degree angle. DO NOT put sealant on the inside of the coach roof (the "liner") as it doesn't do any good and only will make it harder to remove the port should this ever be necessary. 3. Aluminum/stainless corrosion: Use Never-Seze (or equal) on all Al/SS connections, namely, binnacle machine screws (4 ea), if you can still get them out!!!!, quadrant (if you can still get the bolts apart), masthead (on anything that is screwed or bolted on up there), etc. 4. Lazarette: Consider building a shelf inside. I'm in the process using rough plywood first and then using Melimene marine grade plywood laminate ($150/sheet) next (matches factory laminates). Good for stowage of spare chain, storm anchors, outboard, sailbags, etc. etc. Everything is much easier to get at. 5. Interior finish: Use Interlux Scooner satin (#60?) to refinish the interior teak in heavy wear areas (companion way, handles, galley, chart table, doors, etc.). Really helps to improve the appearance. 6. Electrical Conductors: Original wiring was not marine grade and un-tinned. Additionally, it was often undersized. Recommend replacing all battery cables, starter cable, and runs to the main pannel with larger gauge marine cables using Anchor tinned connectors and marine grade heat-shrink tubing. I installed 4 golf carts and a start battery under the aft cabin bunk (where the original pair of group-24s were). 7. Ice box: The insulation is pathetic! Check thickness with an ice pick then add additional closed-cell foam. 8. Chain locker: Not sealed and water can enter the V-berth area. Look inside and up under the deck - recommend this be fiberglassed to waterproof it. Put sealant around where the running lights conductors penetrate into the cabin. 9. It came with a lead keel which is good - keel bolts probably need a little tightening - see Hunter for specs. 225 ft-lbs for the small ones and 400 ft-lbs for the big ones?? 10. It has a low PHRF so is hard to sail to the numbers but it is a fast boat. Easy to get weather helm so reef rather than blow the sails out. 11. Lazarette lid is not a good design - water can get in if you capsize. Haven't got a good solution yet (and it's been 12 years!) 12. Wire and screw penetrations in the walk-thru in the cockpit: If there are water leaks in the stern or rear of the aft cabin then calulk the wires and screws. On the wires (and for bedding) use Dow #795 as it is more plyable than the #895 (Verify number with Hunter parts). Hope this helps -
We've owned a 35 since new in 1988 and spent nearly all that time getting it into a good cruising machine. Things to look for: 1. Skylight leaks: Ours leaked until July of 98 when I finally figured out how to stop the leaks. I wrote a detailed description which should be in the archives. The long and the short of it is to ensure there is a gap between the Lexan and the coach roof (horizontally and vertically). On the 35.5 models Hunter used "bump-ons", a 1/16-inch neoprene stick-on spacer undeer the Lexan - this keeps the sealant from being squished out under the screws. Secondly, in the horizontal direction, there must be a significant gap, say, 3/8-inch minimum. The sealant must be able to stretch like a rubber band. In places my gap was less than 0.003-inches! Thirdly, countersink the screw holes on the underside of the lexan and into the coach roof - this helps to create a sealant washer. Fourth, drill the screw holes a little larger - this allows sealant to go between the screw and the Lexan. Use Dow sealant (#895?)which is available from Hunter parts department. Note that Bayliner uses Dow also! My recommendation is to use Black as this is more resitive to sunlight. To get a uniform width appearance around the skylights I used masking tape and went for about 5/8 to 3/4-inch width - it looks good! 2. Ports: Again, see the archives for more detail. The same reasoning applies. I bought new Bomar ports (really makes the boat look years younger!). Where the port goes through the coach roof (on the outside), file or grind the edge of the hole to a 45-degree angle - gives more room for the sealant to stick. Note that the trim rings come with a 45-degree angle. DO NOT put sealant on the inside of the coach roof (the "liner") as it doesn't do any good and only will make it harder to remove the port should this ever be necessary. 3. Aluminum/stainless corrosion: Use Never-Seze (or equal) on all Al/SS connections, namely, binnacle machine screws (4 ea), if you can still get them out!!!!, quadrant (if you can still get the bolts apart), masthead (on anything that is screwed or bolted on up there), etc. 4. Lazarette: Consider building a shelf inside. I'm in the process using rough plywood first and then using Melimene marine grade plywood laminate ($150/sheet) next (matches factory laminates). Good for stowage of spare chain, storm anchors, outboard, sailbags, etc. etc. Everything is much easier to get at. 5. Interior finish: Use Interlux Scooner satin (#60?) to refinish the interior teak in heavy wear areas (companion way, handles, galley, chart table, doors, etc.). Really helps to improve the appearance. 6. Electrical Conductors: Original wiring was not marine grade and un-tinned. Additionally, it was often undersized. Recommend replacing all battery cables, starter cable, and runs to the main pannel with larger gauge marine cables using Anchor tinned connectors and marine grade heat-shrink tubing. I installed 4 golf carts and a start battery under the aft cabin bunk (where the original pair of group-24s were). 7. Ice box: The insulation is pathetic! Check thickness with an ice pick then add additional closed-cell foam. 8. Chain locker: Not sealed and water can enter the V-berth area. Look inside and up under the deck - recommend this be fiberglassed to waterproof it. Put sealant around where the running lights conductors penetrate into the cabin. 9. It came with a lead keel which is good - keel bolts probably need a little tightening - see Hunter for specs. 225 ft-lbs for the small ones and 400 ft-lbs for the big ones?? 10. It has a low PHRF so is hard to sail to the numbers but it is a fast boat. Easy to get weather helm so reef rather than blow the sails out. 11. Lazarette lid is not a good design - water can get in if you capsize. Haven't got a good solution yet (and it's been 12 years!) 12. Wire and screw penetrations in the walk-thru in the cockpit: If there are water leaks in the stern or rear of the aft cabin then calulk the wires and screws. On the wires (and for bedding) use Dow #795 as it is more plyable than the #895 (Verify number with Hunter parts). Hope this helps -
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