stern water to bilge?

[Paul F]

My 1980 33 is leaking water from the back of the boat. It is a very slow leak that can be easily held by the engine bilge. The problem is that it seems to me that this water should drain into the main bilge, not accumulate under the engine. Is there an open space clear to the main bilge under the engine? That is plugged up with 24 years of dirt, etc.? If so is there a preferred tool that can be used to unplug it. Thanks,

 

[Dale E. Baker]

Hi Paul.

The engine bilge is part of a liner dropped in as the boat is assembled. Water leaking in the stern of the boat should flow under the engine bilge to the main bilge.This probably means, that the water is coming from the area of the engine itself. Check the cooling system, possibly the exhaust elbow where the water is injected into the exhaust. Depending on where the raw water strainer is located, there could be a leak there.Does water collect when the boat is just sitting, only while motoring, while sailing also? Questions that could clue you in to the source.Good luck in you search.

 

[Debra B]

should drain down in front of the stuffing box

The engine bilge is to protect against oil spills while you are working on the engine, and give you a chance to clean it up without pumping it overboard. At the back of the engine, that should drain down into the main bilge, but it is likely clogged with gunk.There will be water in this most of the time, if you use the boat regularly, but if there is a leak, then it is either coming though the stuffing box (repack) or somewhere else.I have a 37 so the set-up is probably a bit different. A leak from my old hot water heater also filled the engine bilge. Get back there with a light and look at what is going on.

 

[jlogan]

Check the rudder stuffing box

Paul: that year hunter often has a problem with leakage from the rudder stuffing box while underway. The stuffing box nut and rudder stock itself often corrodes (yes, it is stainless, but will get crevice corrosion from lack of oxygen while under water). Because of the design, the top of the stuffing box is above water when the boat is at rest, but underway, the stern squats and water comes in the stuffing box. Some of us with older 33's have had to have a new stuffing box nut made from stainless as you can't buy the part anymore from Hunter or anyone. Pull the panel from the back of the quarterberth and look at the rudder stuffing box while underway to check this. You might also want to make sure there is no leakage around the strut bolts, as these sometimes become loose and leak some. This is a more serious problem as a loose strut is a safety issue. Look in the archives for more on the rudder stuffing box issue.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Baby powder.

It is very difficult to detect small leaks and their source. Sprinkle baby powder liberally from front to back on the engine pan. You will immediately see the trail.Debra is right about the water heater, at least on the H37C. The other ideas are also right on. Before I had dripless packing I would have water in the pan. The shaft would sling the drips so that they would miss the hole under the stuffing box. That hole leads to the bilge but the drips would end up in the pan.

 

[Paul F]

Progress report - dry tonight

Thanks all, there apears to be a small opening between the hull and the engine bilge. But it is not down the center. It is off to the side, moving over as the engine bilge becomes deeper. It is likely that the 37 has more space in this area than the 33. I was able to poke/probe the area with a flat steel bar to about 24". The water remaining back of the engine bilge drained out into the main bilge. This is a very tight drainage area and I will have to watch it in the future.As far as the leak, the back area was dry and not "slow running" as it had been yesterday. However, the slip the boat is in, is shallow and the boat was about 9" out of the water sitting on the bottom with the low tide. If it continues to be dry when it is floating then the leak is as you have said either from the propeller shaft or the rudder post. Thanks for your comments and assitance.

 

[dprior]

Another spot to look

Paul there is another spot to check for the aft leak. Ed and Scott are correct in their checks about the stuffing box and hot water tank. I have been through both of those in the past a couple of times.I have a 37-C and it has external flanges on the front of the rudder that attaches to the hull aft of the prop and in front of the rudder post. These flanges were originally just screwed on to the hull with ss wood screws (about no. 10). I had one flange replaced and the yard did not tighten the screws properly. The highest screw came out leaving a small hole through the hull behind the engine and water heater and in the most inaccessible part of the whole hull.It was not a large leak as the hole was only a few inches under water (if the boat is floating). I had to eventually pull the boat to get at it and re-seal the entire flange on both sides.Fair winds.Don

 

[Ed Schenck]

But Don, . . .

the H33 does not have those rudder deflectors. But your are right about those screws, they go into a void. However that water should go under the pan, not into the pan.I still have those deflectors. I glassed in a piece of 2"x6" that I shaped to fit that void. No more holes into open space.

 

[Ed A]

this is starting to look like a hose or gasket !

I would look the engine over pretty close, Broken hose clamp, cracked hose or loose cover on the water pump, that kind of thing may be your problem. you got to let us know when you find it, this is like a mystery story!

 

[dprior]

Another spot to look, again

Okay, Scott, Ed and Paul, now you have me thinking. I thought I had been through every possible leak on a hunter. One more I just remembered.I have a 3QM30 Yanmar engine. The aft end of the exhaust manifild water cooling jacket started to leak after about ten years. The exhaust riser is screwed into a plate that is bolted on to the end of the manifold. The plate started to leak from the bottom corner closest to the engine. The sea water dripped into the pan under the engine.I stopped it by taking off the exhaust manifold. I had the plate removed and re-machined for a tight fit. I also added considerable gasket sealer. Looking into the inside of the exhaust maifold was enlightening. All the passages were greatly reduced by sediment and scale. I has it shot cleaned and it made a tremendous difference in the engine. It runs much cooler now.That was five years back and it has not leaked again. I will not be able to do it a second time. Next time it leaks I will need to purchase a new exhaust manifold.An aside.... the leaking water from the manifold ran over the external high pressure oil line around the top of the engine block. The line is relatively soft metal and it corroded through one fine summer day about 20 miles from my home port. The broken line pumped all the oil from the engine into the bilge pan. I put a clamp around the line and managed to get back to port under power (summer in the pacific north west, no wind).Replacing that line is an experience.Fair winds.Don

 

[Paul F]

O.K. I'll tell of one that I fixed

This tread is starting to be fun. I am afraid that everywhere I look on this old 33 there will be an oportunity for water. Here is one I found earlier, you may want to check your boats. The exhaust hose crossed the head waste hose and wore a small hole in the exhaust hose which leaked some water. I put a patch on it and installed a buffer between the two hoses.I was down to the boat tonight but after motoring to the pass a storm warning forced a return to the slip. The engine bilge is dry after the short trip. That means the water is coming in elsewhere.When I get out next I will look in all the places everyone has suggested. Again, thanks,

 

[sam Lust20932]

Might I mention corroded nuts?

An all too common problem on this series 33 is the stuffing nut on top of the rudder tube. This piece corrodes badly and allows water in slowly, especialy if the stern is down a bit, and certainly under way as the stern tends to squat quite a bit, bringing it below the water line. Crawl all the way in there with a bright light and mirror and get a good look at it. I hope you're not a big person! My bet is you'll be amazed and appalled. Once you find it, repost and we'll discuss having a replacement made and the repair.

 

[Paul F]

Rudder post stuffing

Thanks Sam, there is actually new stuffing on the rudder post from a complete rebuild of the rudder and shaft last year. But still, it was indeed leaking about a month ago. I took the advice found here and proceeded, in my way, to open the leak more by turning the locking nut the wrong way. After a day or two of purchasing a number of ever larger wrenchs, I figured out how to tighten it. The last I checked in the slip it wasn't leaking, but will check the next time out under motor and sail. However, this weedend another hurricane is comming in, so will be battening down rather than sailing, rats.