Stern tube

[Davehi]

Does anyone know how to replace a stern tube on a 35-3 or similar?
Thnaks

 

[Allan12210]

Does anyone know how to replace a stern tube on a 35-3 or similar?
Thnaks

Perhaps this can help. I replaced mine in 2019. That was part of a larger job of replacing the strut/shaft/cutless bearing/coupling. The stern tube was shot and breaking apart. One thing I noticed was that it wasn't in-line with the shaft. The clearance was less at the top inside the boat. Not a terribly difficult job, but one must pay attention to the alignment. I bought the replacement stern tube right here at the SBO store. The old one came out quite easily. Unscrew the bolts and leave the nuts on to protect the threads. Tap them out with plastic dead blow hammer. A pipe wrench on the tube twisted it loose easily. I expected worse if Hunter used 5200, but apparently they did not. I used the shaft attached to the engine to check alignment of the new one. It was not a 90 degree angle. I had to grind the surface up inside the gap and fill it with some thickened West Systems epoxy. That was the only tricky part for me. I also made a plastic bushing that fit over the shaft and into the new stern tube. That way I was sure it was centered properly and flange was against the hull on the outside evenly. There originally was some kind of fabric reinforced gasket on the outside between the flange and the hull. Luckily, I had some similar material at home so I cut a new one. When ready, I used Sikaflex 292 to seal everything up well. Three years later and no leaks. I hope this helps you.

 

[Davehi]

Perhaps this can help. I replaced mine in 2019. That was part of a larger job of replacing the strut/shaft/cutless bearing/coupling. The stern tube was shot and breaking apart. One thing I noticed was that it wasn't in-line with the shaft. The clearance was less at the top inside the boat. Not a terribly difficult job, but one must pay attention to the alignment. I bought the replacement stern tube right here at the SBO store. The old one came out quite easily. Unscrew the bolts and leave the nuts on to protect the threads. Tap them out with plastic dead blow hammer. A pipe wrench on the tube twisted it loose easily. I expected worse if Hunter used 5200, but apparently they did not. I used the shaft attached to the engine to check alignment of the new one. It was not a 90 degree angle. I had to grind the surface up inside the gap and fill it with some thickened West Systems epoxy. That was the only tricky part for me. I also made a plastic bushing that fit over the shaft and into the new stern tube. That way I was sure it was centered properly and flange was against the hull on the outside evenly. There originally was some kind of fabric reinforced gasket on the outside between the flange and the hull. Luckily, I had some similar material at home so I cut a new one. When ready, I used Sikaflex 292 to seal everything up well. Three years later and no leaks. I hope this helps you.

 

[Davehi]

Thank you for the advice Allan. Good idea, using plastic bushings over the shaft to align the tube. The ericson has a fiberglass stern tube directly attached to the tapered hull with no exterior flange. I have been having a difficult time finding fiberglass tubes. Would brass work in place of it with the tube protruding from the hull by 4" so as to cover the tapered opening"

 

[Allan12210]

Thank you for the advice Allan. Good idea, using plastic bushings over the shaft to align the tube. The ericson has a fiberglass stern tube directly attached to the tapered hull with no exterior flange. I have been having a difficult time finding fiberglass tubes. Would brass work in place of it with the tube protruding from the hull by 4" so as to cover the tapered opening"

I'm not really familiar with that design. Do you have a picture that could help? As long as the brass is only temporary it could be used for alignment. Otherwise it won't last long under water.