Stern Rail Mounting

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Steve

I have a stern rail that needs remounting. The former owner had taken it off and I would prefer to put it back on, but I do not have the old hardware. My question is should the stern rail (pulpit) be mounted with stainless self tapping screws into the deck or nuts and bolts with backing metal underneath? Keep in mind that it is an area (underneath) that is hard to get to. Any suggestions? Thanks Steve
 
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Jim Wolfgram

Bolted with backing plates.

You need to treat this the same as your lifeline stantions, boltz, with Nuts and backing plates or very large washers. I wouldn't trust self tapping screws with the potential loads.
 
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Tom s/v GAIA

Jim has it right.

bolts, VERY large washers, and nuts. Do it correctly,-- it could save a life. Tom s/v GAIA
 
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Steve

Thanks, guys, now what?

Thanks for the info. I would rather this be a very safe installation. Where would one find the backing plates for this?
 
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Jim Wolfgram

Backing plate thoughts.

If I were taking this on, I would get some rough measurements of the area where it would bolts would come though, (i.e., where it needs to be backed). I'd look for some aluminum bar 1/4 or 1/8 inch that fit the desired dimension. You can probably find some metal fabricator who can obtain it or size it for a nominal cost. Then I'd drill and tap it for the bolts that will be coming. Really big washers would probably be almost as good and a bit less work if you can fit them in the area. Hope it helps. I'll take a look under my boat this weekend and see what the factory did, maybe get a digital picture and post it for reference.
 
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John Dawson

Big s.s. fender washers

can be found at a West Marine store, but a backing plate of some sort is probably better. Mahogany is also an alternative.
 
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Bayard Gross

What kind of a boat and what year?

On most C-22's and C-25's and I think even C-27's, the rear most stanchions of the aft pulpit on the transom are machine screwed into a bronze plate that lies underneath the fiberglass top edge of the transom. It's just a matter of finding the riginal holes and then screwing in some 1/4 inch (I beleive) machine screws. Unfortunately, I do not have any idea as to how long they should be, but I think about two inches should be sufficient. The forward stanchions of the aft pulpit are through bolted and there should be room for you to do that.
 
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Steve

Bayard: Thanks for the info

Bayard: That is great information, if my '69 C-25 (Coronado) qualifies for that deck plate. The holes have been filled in, sanded and painted, but I can still see their outline. I am hoping I can get to the very end of the deck from the inside (large quarter berth going to the port side just about all the way aft, then a topside lazarette). Two inches seems fine... now about the diameter and thread size..... Steve
 
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Bayard Gross

C is for Catalina, not Coronado

The C-22s, 25s, and 27's I refered to are all Catalinas. I don't think the C-22 was put into production until 1971. So my information to you is useless as you have a 1969 Coronado and I have not a clue on their construction. However, it is possible that the bronze plate construcition method I mentioned could have been used in your boat. The way to find out is to to drill a small test pilot hole in one of the old holes that you found and see if gold colored flakes of metal come up. That is how I discovered that I had that plate in my boat as I could not find records as to when that proceedure was started.
 
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