Could someone give me the best method of running a stern line to shore (with current of wind) when anchoring in an area that you don't want to swing. Thanks
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I think he asked this exact question, and got a bunch of replies. Good Luck - Rob
I think he asked this exact question, and got a bunch of replies. Good Luck - Rob
Normal anchoring for us.
Fred: This is a normal anchoring method for us. Depending on the shore we usually go bow in. We approach the shore and drop a stern anchor. Then we pay out the line (on the stern) until we reach the shore. (Note: Our shores are normally sandy or mud bottoms) It depends on the topography, if there is a tree overhanding the water we will run a shore line(tied to a cleat) around the tree and back to another cleat. We try to never go around the tree limb more than once. This way it makes it much easier to take off when we want to leave. (just release one end of the line and back off). We sometime also throw an anchor on shore if it is a sandy beach. We then back off to account for any tidal changes. We always need to be aware if we are anchoring at High, Low or Slack Tide. My better half usually jumps overboard if we need to take a line to shore or have to take the anchor farther ashore. I really do not like to go in stern first. This is just my own thing. I worry about the rudder striking the bottom. The idea here is that you can just reverse this idea with paying out the anchor line from the bow as you back in. It is just that you cannot get as close to the shore when you back in. I do not know if I really answered your question or not.
Fred: This is a normal anchoring method for us. Depending on the shore we usually go bow in. We approach the shore and drop a stern anchor. Then we pay out the line (on the stern) until we reach the shore. (Note: Our shores are normally sandy or mud bottoms) It depends on the topography, if there is a tree overhanding the water we will run a shore line(tied to a cleat) around the tree and back to another cleat. We try to never go around the tree limb more than once. This way it makes it much easier to take off when we want to leave. (just release one end of the line and back off). We sometime also throw an anchor on shore if it is a sandy beach. We then back off to account for any tidal changes. We always need to be aware if we are anchoring at High, Low or Slack Tide. My better half usually jumps overboard if we need to take a line to shore or have to take the anchor farther ashore. I really do not like to go in stern first. This is just my own thing. I worry about the rudder striking the bottom. The idea here is that you can just reverse this idea with paying out the anchor line from the bow as you back in. It is just that you cannot get as close to the shore when you back in. I do not know if I really answered your question or not.
anchoring -stern to shore
What Steve said----exactly! I have anchored stern to shore only where there is deep water. I would be very concerned about the rudder striking bottom in waves or wake ( we have no tide) Do you have some special reason to anchor stern first?
What Steve said----exactly! I have anchored stern to shore only where there is deep water. I would be very concerned about the rudder striking bottom in waves or wake ( we have no tide) Do you have some special reason to anchor stern first?
As Fast as you can (long)
This can be an awkward maneouver, especially if there are a number of other boats nearby which could be hit. My first comment is that if there is a significant current or wind, and if your boat is mid to large in size, avoid the stern tie completely if you can. The forces on the side of the hull are huge and the boat will do better swinging. Our system is (I apologize if this is more info than you wanted): 1. Tour the area -check out depths, determine how much leeway you can expect, check the angle of the anchors adjacent to you (so that you don't drop your line over theirs), and select your anchor angle, tie-off spot (tree, rock, log, whatever) and final resting spot. If there is little wind or no current, you will have lots of time, if there is some, preparation is important. 2. Get your shore gear ready to go - dinghy, line, etc. (start the motor on the dinghy if there is any doubt)If you have enough crew, you can put the shore crew in the water. 3. Set your anchor while backing into your spot. Make sure that you have a good hold in the usual manner by putting some load on the set. Allow for the expected drift if you can. Sometimes, this is not possible. If there are other boats very close, you should stop the boat short of it's final location so that your boat could swing by them if the wind or current catches you. You can then let out more rode after the stern line is attached. 4. Send the dinghy ashore with the line. We use a line reel on the boat end with a wooden brush handle through it and set it on the stern so that the line will just roll off as needed. If you have enough line, you can do a single wrap and bring the line back to the boat making it easier to cast off later. If not, just tie it off. The person at the helm must attempt to hold the boat on the anchor so that it doesn't drift back out. He/she must also attempt to overcome any drift. This can sometimes be done with helm position. On some occasions, we have had to go back out and take a second shot at it because we drifted too much - that's OK - better than hitting someone and we usually don't have to re-set the anchor. 5. When you have the line back on the boat adjust the anchor and stern line until the boat is where you want it. It is usually an easy procedure. We often do it with just 2 of us on our 460 - my wife is excellent at the helm, and I usually set the anchor and then go to shore. On 2 occasions over the past 8 years, the anchor has begun to drag as the current increase and we have noticed ourselves getting closer and closer to shore. Then I put anchor #2 and it's line in the dinghy - take it out, drop it, and bring the line back to the boat. That isn't fun, but it works. The second anchor is important. Hope this helps, ROwen
This can be an awkward maneouver, especially if there are a number of other boats nearby which could be hit. My first comment is that if there is a significant current or wind, and if your boat is mid to large in size, avoid the stern tie completely if you can. The forces on the side of the hull are huge and the boat will do better swinging. Our system is (I apologize if this is more info than you wanted): 1. Tour the area -check out depths, determine how much leeway you can expect, check the angle of the anchors adjacent to you (so that you don't drop your line over theirs), and select your anchor angle, tie-off spot (tree, rock, log, whatever) and final resting spot. If there is little wind or no current, you will have lots of time, if there is some, preparation is important. 2. Get your shore gear ready to go - dinghy, line, etc. (start the motor on the dinghy if there is any doubt)If you have enough crew, you can put the shore crew in the water. 3. Set your anchor while backing into your spot. Make sure that you have a good hold in the usual manner by putting some load on the set. Allow for the expected drift if you can. Sometimes, this is not possible. If there are other boats very close, you should stop the boat short of it's final location so that your boat could swing by them if the wind or current catches you. You can then let out more rode after the stern line is attached. 4. Send the dinghy ashore with the line. We use a line reel on the boat end with a wooden brush handle through it and set it on the stern so that the line will just roll off as needed. If you have enough line, you can do a single wrap and bring the line back to the boat making it easier to cast off later. If not, just tie it off. The person at the helm must attempt to hold the boat on the anchor so that it doesn't drift back out. He/she must also attempt to overcome any drift. This can sometimes be done with helm position. On some occasions, we have had to go back out and take a second shot at it because we drifted too much - that's OK - better than hitting someone and we usually don't have to re-set the anchor. 5. When you have the line back on the boat adjust the anchor and stern line until the boat is where you want it. It is usually an easy procedure. We often do it with just 2 of us on our 460 - my wife is excellent at the helm, and I usually set the anchor and then go to shore. On 2 occasions over the past 8 years, the anchor has begun to drag as the current increase and we have noticed ourselves getting closer and closer to shore. Then I put anchor #2 and it's line in the dinghy - take it out, drop it, and bring the line back to the boat. That isn't fun, but it works. The second anchor is important. Hope this helps, ROwen
My method
Find another anchorage, grab a beer, and entertain yourself watching others strugge with it. Works great for me.
Find another anchorage, grab a beer, and entertain yourself watching others strugge with it. Works great for me.
Piece of cake!
We often anchor in this way. Sequence is 1. very slowly go into the bay forwards checking the depthsounder and position as you advance. Determine the position that you want the boat in once anchored, use reference points on land to help. Once you satisfied yourself that there is sufficient water, back out in the same direction that you eneterd. Now back in dropping the anchor early, pay ot the anchor line. Snub the anchor line when you reach the spot where you want the boat. Leave the boat in reverse idling while you take a line to shore tie around a rock and hustle back on board. Pull up taught on the stern line to get the anchor line tight. On Lake Champlain now, there is a parks rule that boats are not permitted to use live or even dead trees to tie lines to. The main reason is caused by those boaters who just loop ther line around the tree and then when leaving, untie one end and pull the other end back on board. The idea being that you don't have to go to shore to untie the line. Unfortunately what pulling the line back to the boat does is act like a saw, and the rope will cut through the bark of many types of trees. (especially the yellow poly rope)We all know what that will ultimately do to the tree once the back has been cut through. I carry a chain loop that I toss around an appropriate rock then tie the stern anchor line to that. As long as rock is large enough, it won't budge!! Stern to offers a wonderful nights sleep in a small bay where swing room is an issue.......enjoy
We often anchor in this way. Sequence is 1. very slowly go into the bay forwards checking the depthsounder and position as you advance. Determine the position that you want the boat in once anchored, use reference points on land to help. Once you satisfied yourself that there is sufficient water, back out in the same direction that you eneterd. Now back in dropping the anchor early, pay ot the anchor line. Snub the anchor line when you reach the spot where you want the boat. Leave the boat in reverse idling while you take a line to shore tie around a rock and hustle back on board. Pull up taught on the stern line to get the anchor line tight. On Lake Champlain now, there is a parks rule that boats are not permitted to use live or even dead trees to tie lines to. The main reason is caused by those boaters who just loop ther line around the tree and then when leaving, untie one end and pull the other end back on board. The idea being that you don't have to go to shore to untie the line. Unfortunately what pulling the line back to the boat does is act like a saw, and the rope will cut through the bark of many types of trees. (especially the yellow poly rope)We all know what that will ultimately do to the tree once the back has been cut through. I carry a chain loop that I toss around an appropriate rock then tie the stern anchor line to that. As long as rock is large enough, it won't budge!! Stern to offers a wonderful nights sleep in a small bay where swing room is an issue.......enjoy
And Pay Attention to Tides!
We have stern tied on several occasions with generally good results. Others have commented with good advice on how to do this. Two additional comments. 1. Pay attention to the state of the tide. If you tie off to a tree or a rock at low tide, you might find your knot ten feet under water if you have to leave at high tide or conversely ten feet up in a tree and inaccessible if the situation were reversed. 2. While perhaps not good for tree bark, I think running the line back to the boat is much safer. If the wind comes up and you're getting blown into the shore, you can quickly cast off the line from one stern cleat and pull the line back into the boat without having to go out in the dinghy to untie a knot on shore. Sound like the voice of experience? Yes I did have to cut a stern line (problem #2) in Desolation Sound this fall! Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
We have stern tied on several occasions with generally good results. Others have commented with good advice on how to do this. Two additional comments. 1. Pay attention to the state of the tide. If you tie off to a tree or a rock at low tide, you might find your knot ten feet under water if you have to leave at high tide or conversely ten feet up in a tree and inaccessible if the situation were reversed. 2. While perhaps not good for tree bark, I think running the line back to the boat is much safer. If the wind comes up and you're getting blown into the shore, you can quickly cast off the line from one stern cleat and pull the line back into the boat without having to go out in the dinghy to untie a knot on shore. Sound like the voice of experience? Yes I did have to cut a stern line (problem #2) in Desolation Sound this fall! Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
I'm with Phil...
On our lake, if you have to run a stern line to shore, it almost always means that you will not have a 7:1 scope on the rode, and I don't sleep well with that scenario. I have seen too many guys get holes knocked out of their hulls from going up on a rocky lee shore. Ouch! I have found wonderful uses for my "land line," however. 100 feet of quality rode is a great tool to have about a boat. Rob
On our lake, if you have to run a stern line to shore, it almost always means that you will not have a 7:1 scope on the rode, and I don't sleep well with that scenario. I have seen too many guys get holes knocked out of their hulls from going up on a rocky lee shore. Ouch! I have found wonderful uses for my "land line," however. 100 feet of quality rode is a great tool to have about a boat. Rob
Thanks
Thanks for all the great advise. When possible I'll use Phil's advise but sometimes a stern anchor line to shore is necessary in areas I sail and the rest of your advise will be put to good use. Thanks
Thanks for all the great advise. When possible I'll use Phil's advise but sometimes a stern anchor line to shore is necessary in areas I sail and the rest of your advise will be put to good use. Thanks
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