Stepping a mast on a Hunter 33

Jun 13, 2024
11
Hunter 33 Toronto
I got a 2008 Hunter 33 this year and am considering options for winter storage. My club requires masts to come down for the winter but I've been told that the B&R rig set-up on a Hunter is difficult/tricky to step come spring, so I'm considering other options.
Can anyone confirm or rebut the tricky stepping rumour? It would certainly be cheaper for me to store it at my club rather than a commercial marina.
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,259
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I don’t know if it is any harder than a traditional rig, but “tuning” it may be a learning curve.

My 3 sailing friends with H33’s do not unstep their masts for the winter (but not typical in my marina). Our boats sit outside all winter.

Does the club unstep the mast ? For us, that is a problem…the marina does not offer the service, so we would need to hire a crane to come in.

Greg
 
Mar 27, 2021
170
Hunter 306 Lake Pepin
Here's a link to the Selden "Hints and Advice" rig tuning guide: 595-540-E.pdf (seldenmast.com) B&R is on p. 53.

I won't comment on the relative trickiness, but I'd say it's certainly easier if you've got the option to leave it up. But if you want to save the cash, don't mind messing with it and don't need it to be 100% optimally tuned right away in the Spring, I'd say go for it. But as Greg mentioned above, there may be a learning curve.

Before unstepping the mast, you can put a wrap of tape on the threads above and below the turnbuckle bodies as a way of marking your current positions/tensions. One of the differences from a traditional rig are the use of reverse diagonals to induce pre-bend in the mast prior to stepping. Assuming they're currently providing the proper pre-bend, they can be left as is when unstepping and you can just leave them connected. Then in the Spring, tighten the turnbuckles back to the taped sections. If you have access to a Loos gauge to check tension, even better, but you wouldn't necessarily need it.

I recently messed around with my rig because the mast was not properly centered but haven't had the opportunity to test it out in 15-20 knots yet. I may be singing a different tune in a few days when the wind pipes up. ;)
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,261
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Taking a mast down is not an unusual practice.

Use a rigger's trick to make it easy to set the mast back up. Mark the turnbuckles with a permanent marker or tape so you know where to set them when you raise the mast.
 
Dec 14, 2003
1,414
Hunter 34 Lake of Two Mountains, QC, Can
Taking a mast down or up is relatively simple. Double spreaders and B & R rigging make it a little bit more complicated as you have to set up your lifting point somewhere above mid mast and not below the lower spreader as is done on mast with single spreaders. Ideally you have access to a crane at your club. If not, you can use a boom truck. Every Spring and Fall I do training on how to step and un-step masts at my club and some other clubs in the Montreal area. Pm me and I can forward instructions for your mast with pics. Good luck
 
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Jun 8, 2004
1,052
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
Tape on the turnbuckle threads certainly works but an even more reliable method is to measure the distance between the top and bottom clevis pins at each turnbuckle and record it in your maintenance log. Returning to the same measurements in the spring will duplicate the rig setting prior to unstepping the mast.
 
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Jun 8, 2004
10,326
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Is the 33 mast single or two sets of spreaders? I c it remember as it was long ago since introducing that boat at the Annapolis boat show
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,948
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Stepping can be tricky, but doable once you get used to it. Main thing to watch is to keep the mast perfectly straight without any pre-bend. The Selden instructions talk about pre-bend, but that is for standard mains. Any bend will mess up the in-mast furler. As above, premark your stays, also get yourself a Loos Gauge, there is one that covers the 2 sizes of cable. You'll want to check tension after each set up. There are some good Youtube videos on how to check vertical alignment side to side as well.
 
Dec 4, 2023
132
Hunter 44 Portsmouth
I have played with my mast tuning substantially over the years of maintaining my 44 - starting with when I had the mast unstepped and stepped for taking it through the Oswego and Erie canals.

Tuning the B+R rig isn't difficult after restepping since you generally don't need to change the tension of the diagonals unless you're making additional tuning changes. The diagonals are pretensioned with the rig unstepped in order to set initial camber (prebend). I suggest reviewing Selden's manual. I don't have it open in front of me, but I believe the manual suggests a small amount of camber in an in-mast furling mast. Too much will, indeed, cause issues with the furler, but some (look in the manual for the number) is desirable to prevent the mast from inverting into an inverted camber situation (prebending in the opposite direction, concave toward the forestay). My mast (around 55' tall) is tuned with about 2" of camber and it furls extremely smoothly.

Marking the turnbuckles before unstepping is great advice. Be sure to mark the position of the forestay adjustment as well. The B&R rig is essentially a tripod. The position of every other turnbuckle is relative to position of the forestay adjustment. Lube the threads (I use WD-40) before tightening them. Stainless steel can be finicky about galling.

While retensioning next spring, I would suggest tightening the turnbuckles gradually, favoring tension on the outer stays until the final tension adjustment. Again, lube the turnbuckles before tightening them. Go slowly, sighting up the mast from the front and sides to look for any odd or extreme shapes developing. Putting too much tension on the inner stays too soon can invert the mast camber. Use a pair of wrenches to turn the turnbuckles. Don't stick a screwdriver or pry bar in the turnbuckle to turn or hold them.

Keep in mind that, with the B&R rig, the outer shrouds and inner shrouds work together to shape the mast. The outer shrouds pull down and behind the mast, forcing the mast into a more cambered shape. The inner shrouds pull back on the middle(ish) part of the mast, acting to straighten it. Because the shrouds work together, tightening the inner shrounds tends to tighten the outer shrouds (and vice-versa). It sounds complicated, but you'll get a good feel for it with time.

You can use your main halyard for measuring camber and rearward sweep. I've found that sighting up the mast, by eye, from various vantage points around the boat can also be helpful.

If you're already happy with your tune, just mark the turnbuckles off and you should be able to hit the tune closely enough next spring.
 
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Sep 20, 2006
2,948
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
I have played with my mast tuning substantially over the years of maintaining my 44 - starting with when I had the mast unstepped and stepped for taking it through the Oswego and Erie canals.

Tuning the B+R rig isn't difficult after restepping since you generally don't need to change the tension of the diagonals unless you're making additional tuning changes. The diagonals are pretensioned with the rig unstepped in order to set initial camber (prebend). I suggest reviewing Selden's manual. I don't have it open in front of me, but I believe the manual suggests a small amount of camber in an in-mast furling mast. Too much will, indeed, cause issues with the furler, but some (look in the manual for the number) is desirable to prevent the mast from inverting into an inverted camber situation (prebending in the opposite direction, concave toward the forestay). My mast (around 55' tall) is tuned with about 2" of camber and it furls extremely smoothly.

Marking the turnbuckles before unstepping is great advice. Be sure to mark the position of the forestay adjustment as well. The B&R rig is essentially a tripod. The position of every other turnbuckle is relative to position of the forestay adjustment. Use WD-40 to lube the threads before tightening them. Stainless steel can be finicky about galling.

While retensioning next spring, I would suggest tightening the turnbuckles gradually, favoring tension on the outer stays until the final tension adjustment. Again, lube the turnbuckles (I use WD-40) before tightening them. Go slowly, sighting up the mast from the front and sides to look for any odd or extreme shapes developing. Putting too much tension on the inner stays too soon can invert the mast camber. Use a pair of wrenches to turn the turnbuckles. Don't stick a screwdriver or pry bar in the turnbuckle to turn or hold them.

Keep in mind that, with the B&R rig, the outer shrouds and inner shrouds work together to shape the mast. The outer shrouds pull down and behind the mast, forcing the mast into a more cambered shape. The inner shrouds pull back on the middle(ish) part of the mast, acting to straighten it. Because the shrouds work together, tightening the inner shrounds tends to tighten the outer shrouds (and vice-versa). It sounds complicated, but you'll get a good feel for it with time.

You can use your main halyard for measuring camber and rearward sweep. I've found that sighting up the mast, by eye, from various vantage points around the boat can also be helpful.

If you're already happy with your tune, just mark the turnbuckles off an you should be able to hit the tune closely enough next spring.

Very good ideas. Yes, the H33 manual does state to have no more than 2" pre-bend, not perfectly straight as I had said above. I forgot this point as I had tuned mine sevaral years ago after a "professional" rigger put the 1% pre-bend in and it took me a while to get it right.