Steering Cables adjustment

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Jul 7, 2009
252
Beneteau First 405 Myrtle Beach, S.C.
I noticed, while removing the steering turning radius limiter (2x4 screwed to hull liner), and making an aluminum replacement, that my steering cables have a slight droop. I am afraid that with more use, one may strech slightly and fall off the large steering pulley. Is there a fine adjustment inside the pedestal or do i have to grind off the rusted cable ties and install new ones while someone pulls on the cable with vise grips?? I was hoping for something easy for a chance. I am due for a brake.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
No breaks Jose. The adjustments are the turnbuckles on the radial wheel. In the picture you can just make out the threaded end. Upper right in the scooped out area. There should be two nuts on there, adjust and then lock it with the second nut. There should be two, the second end cannot be seen.
 

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Nov 6, 2006
10,104
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Steering cables

Ed is right on, Jose.. Here is what itt looks like on the 34.. the big horizontal threaded rod with the double nuts. One on each side of the post. Loosen the nuts, hold the threaded rod, Tighten the nut closest to the hub, then spin down the lock nut and lock it by tightening against the other nut. Both sides equally so the wheel in the cockpit stays centered.. Good luck with it.
 

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Jul 7, 2009
252
Beneteau First 405 Myrtle Beach, S.C.
Yes indeed. After looking at Ed's picture, I started digging and I did find some adjusting nuts under all that sand and dried mud. I am hoping that the cable clamps I see at the rear are there to clamp the excess wire. It's getting dark so I will investigate further tomorow.

By the way, my system looks almost primitive compared to Kloudie1 steering system.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Nov 6, 2006
10,104
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
The cable from the pedistal goes around a thinble at the adjusting bolt, and the bitter end is clamped.. Looks like about time for a really good soak in some kind of penetrating oil for the clamps and the adjusting bolts and nuts.. That way, by springtime that stuff should be workable.. Again, good luck with it, Jose.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Is there a locknut missing or is there more gunk around it? But yep, that's the adjustment. I had forgotten about the extra wire and the cable clamps. You might want to shorten the excess a little. Trying to think if there is any reason to have all that extra. Be sure to post pictures of the 2x4 replacement.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Jose:

I would cut off those cable clamps and replace them regardless of what you do. I may be a great time to completely rehab the system (new cable, clamps, bolts etc). Once you start replacing stuff you may as well finish it. None of these parts are very expensive, but it is a lot easier to do the entire system at one time.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
True Steve. Except that the cable is attached to a very expensive chain from Edson. It means paying their price plus taking the whole thing out of the pedestal. However knowing about Jose's shop he could probably replace the cable on the existing chain. For sure a pair of nice stainless clamps are in order.
 

Blaise

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Jan 22, 2008
359
Hunter 37-cutter Bradenton
The cables come off the chain by undoing the clevis pins. After you get everything back, they should be taut but not bar tight. If they are too loose thay can come out of the radius wheel. You guys stuff lasts longer than mine. I have to replace cables every five years because they develop fish hooks where they turn around the sheaves.
 
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