Help!!! I have been fighting a steaming light problem for some time. I do not have any wiring details indicating how the mast light is wired to the system. I have attempted to pull the old wiring out, but it appears to be plugged into or otherwise connected to the source under the maststep ( no real access). Would a wire fish work? The porblems are: The light was not switched (it went on and off at will!). It was wired straight to the battery. No doubt a short in the mast. It first went on then off again when we delivered the boat. I came back to the boat after a week and found it on. Odd!! I have installed a battery shut off switch to prevent that problem. Now it will not operated at all. I am sure that the wiring is damaged inside the mast and wish to replace all of it. I have replaced the old curcuit panel and cleaned up the wiring mess as well. I would really appreceate any and all assistance. Lots of trips up the mast and nothing but sore legs and dropped stuff to show for it!!! Larry Stanton Irish Rose Oday 27
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Rich J
electrical problems....
Larry,The first thing I did when I purchased my boat was update & rewire the electrical system, running lights etc...and install new breaker panels. Your problem sounds like a short, the fact that anything is directly wired to the battery is (in my opinion) a problem, which needs attention. Don't be overwhelmed, it's NOT as big of a job as you'd think, some suggested books 1) 12-volt bible / by M. Brotherton 2) 12v Doctor practical handbook / by E.J. Byen 3) Your 12-volt electrical system / by C. Miller & E.S. Maloney 4) Boat owner's illistrated, handbook of wiring / by C. Wing Most large book stores have at least 1 of these. I hope this helps & keep us updated RichJ
Larry,The first thing I did when I purchased my boat was update & rewire the electrical system, running lights etc...and install new breaker panels. Your problem sounds like a short, the fact that anything is directly wired to the battery is (in my opinion) a problem, which needs attention. Don't be overwhelmed, it's NOT as big of a job as you'd think, some suggested books 1) 12-volt bible / by M. Brotherton 2) 12v Doctor practical handbook / by E.J. Byen 3) Your 12-volt electrical system / by C. Miller & E.S. Maloney 4) Boat owner's illistrated, handbook of wiring / by C. Wing Most large book stores have at least 1 of these. I hope this helps & keep us updated RichJ
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web
What Rich said, plus -
I have found that its is almost always easier to run a new wire than mess around look for a short on my boat. I also bit the bullet and rewired all my mast electrics pre-emptively, even though only my anchor light was funky. I found an appropriate gauge multi-strand PBX phone wire that gave me enough conductors for anchor, steaming, foredeck, and left me two pair for spreader lights. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
I have found that its is almost always easier to run a new wire than mess around look for a short on my boat. I also bit the bullet and rewired all my mast electrics pre-emptively, even though only my anchor light was funky. I found an appropriate gauge multi-strand PBX phone wire that gave me enough conductors for anchor, steaming, foredeck, and left me two pair for spreader lights. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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Russ Marcks
Rich J is correct. I did virtually all of what he did to his boat when I got my 25' O'Day. Rewired the entire boat, replaced the existing panel and added a second, added an AC panel, etc. As he stated, it really isn't a huge task. Of course, I had the boat out of the water and the mast down. The 25' & 27' are very similar in interior layout. It's rather easy to pull the wire through one of many deck fittings available and run it along the bulkhead in the head then down underneath the setee's to the panel. Russ Be sure to size the wires large enough to prevent high voltage drop. Also consider using pipe insulation as a conduit. They come in 10' sections usually. The soft foam will prevent noise from slapping inside the mast. Also consider running a messenger, a length of tough cord, that you can use at a later date if you ever have to pull wire through the mast again for some reason.
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Jim Cook
I just fixed a similar problem on my O'27
I finally fixed a steaming light problem on my 1973 O'Day 27 today. Some previous owner had wired many devices bass ackwards. I still don't know why it works now or why it didn't work before but here is what I found. The anchor light wire uses an 18-2 with ground which runs from the panel (starboard of the hatch) under the hatch, through the engine compartment, under the port settee, through the bulkhead into the head, up to the ceiling and into the mast. The green ground wire is not being used and is available for use an a conductor. For some unknown reason, the red wire was connected to the "Aux 1" breaker switch, not the "Anchor" switch. I was going to use the green for the steaming light, but found a purple wire (connected to the "Anchor Light" switch) that runs under the starboard deck. When I plugged it in to a power source, it lighted the steaming light. I moved it to the "Running Light" switch. I can't find how or where this purple wire enters the mast. It didn't work before when it was connected to the "Anchor Light" switch, but does now, so I am assuming a bad connection. As a backup, I still have the green wire of the 18-2wG cable. So far, everything is working....... finally. I've been beating myself since I bought it in July to find the problem. FINAL SUGGESTION ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Get some wire-tie labels so that you know exactly where each wire goes, next time you remove the switch panel. Good Luck
I finally fixed a steaming light problem on my 1973 O'Day 27 today. Some previous owner had wired many devices bass ackwards. I still don't know why it works now or why it didn't work before but here is what I found. The anchor light wire uses an 18-2 with ground which runs from the panel (starboard of the hatch) under the hatch, through the engine compartment, under the port settee, through the bulkhead into the head, up to the ceiling and into the mast. The green ground wire is not being used and is available for use an a conductor. For some unknown reason, the red wire was connected to the "Aux 1" breaker switch, not the "Anchor" switch. I was going to use the green for the steaming light, but found a purple wire (connected to the "Anchor Light" switch) that runs under the starboard deck. When I plugged it in to a power source, it lighted the steaming light. I moved it to the "Running Light" switch. I can't find how or where this purple wire enters the mast. It didn't work before when it was connected to the "Anchor Light" switch, but does now, so I am assuming a bad connection. As a backup, I still have the green wire of the 18-2wG cable. So far, everything is working....... finally. I've been beating myself since I bought it in July to find the problem. FINAL SUGGESTION ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Get some wire-tie labels so that you know exactly where each wire goes, next time you remove the switch panel. Good Luck
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david lewis
Electric wiring concerns
I have concerns about several items in this thread. Common copper wire in a marine environment is inadequate. Use of wire just because available or convenient number of conductors does not mean it's the right wire approved for the use. You should only use tinned wire (tinned over its' entire length) in boat systems. Please read some of the recommended books on the subject. Secondly a short circuit desribes a condition where you are bypassing the working portion of the circuit and running the power source directly to ground. This will cause your fuse to melt or circuit breaker to trip . If you have a direct circuit to the battery without protection of a fuse or circuit breaker you have an illegal connection and should fix it immediately! Risk of a fire is very great!!! If you do short this circuit to ground you will have a condition where something is going to melt down or the battery will explode. When the light won't come on or is flickering you describe an "open" circuit. Either loss of the ground connection or loss of the power source connection is the cause. The correct fix to this whole problem is rewiring with proper wire, using proper protection in the circuit, and using a switch for the light (who would wire a steaming light to always be on??? Technically a sailboat under power must display this light but if not under power this is an inappropriate light). Lastly it is very easy to run new wire as long as the old wire is intact in a mast anyway. Just splice the two wires together and then use the old wire to pull the new wire through the mast. Of course if they do separate then an electricians snake found at any hardware store will do the trick. I had a Catalina 25 and had to rewire it because the production wire was not tinned and it corroded, the wire was molded into the deck and not replaceable, a very bad construction method. I always had trouble with the mast lights until I rewired it. I hope the newer Catalinas are better quality. Best of luck on the fix, d
I have concerns about several items in this thread. Common copper wire in a marine environment is inadequate. Use of wire just because available or convenient number of conductors does not mean it's the right wire approved for the use. You should only use tinned wire (tinned over its' entire length) in boat systems. Please read some of the recommended books on the subject. Secondly a short circuit desribes a condition where you are bypassing the working portion of the circuit and running the power source directly to ground. This will cause your fuse to melt or circuit breaker to trip . If you have a direct circuit to the battery without protection of a fuse or circuit breaker you have an illegal connection and should fix it immediately! Risk of a fire is very great!!! If you do short this circuit to ground you will have a condition where something is going to melt down or the battery will explode. When the light won't come on or is flickering you describe an "open" circuit. Either loss of the ground connection or loss of the power source connection is the cause. The correct fix to this whole problem is rewiring with proper wire, using proper protection in the circuit, and using a switch for the light (who would wire a steaming light to always be on??? Technically a sailboat under power must display this light but if not under power this is an inappropriate light). Lastly it is very easy to run new wire as long as the old wire is intact in a mast anyway. Just splice the two wires together and then use the old wire to pull the new wire through the mast. Of course if they do separate then an electricians snake found at any hardware store will do the trick. I had a Catalina 25 and had to rewire it because the production wire was not tinned and it corroded, the wire was molded into the deck and not replaceable, a very bad construction method. I always had trouble with the mast lights until I rewired it. I hope the newer Catalinas are better quality. Best of luck on the fix, d
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david lewis
Multi-Meters
DC circuits for lights are about as simple as they come. You have a wire providing power and another one connected to ground. A muti-meter is a very useful tool to determine the condition of a circuit. A lot of what I've been reading can be diagnosed quite simply with the correct tools. An analog multi-meter can be obtained for under 20 bucks. This should be considered mandatory equipment for any boat tool box. Improper use of colors of wires connected to circuits causes hazards. More so in AC because of higher voltages but if a subsequent owner assumes a ground wire and shorts the circuit it can be quite catastrophic. Please follow correct codes when doing electrical work.
DC circuits for lights are about as simple as they come. You have a wire providing power and another one connected to ground. A muti-meter is a very useful tool to determine the condition of a circuit. A lot of what I've been reading can be diagnosed quite simply with the correct tools. An analog multi-meter can be obtained for under 20 bucks. This should be considered mandatory equipment for any boat tool box. Improper use of colors of wires connected to circuits causes hazards. More so in AC because of higher voltages but if a subsequent owner assumes a ground wire and shorts the circuit it can be quite catastrophic. Please follow correct codes when doing electrical work.
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larry stanton
steaming light problem solved ( I hope)
Thanks to all of you who provided the additional information. THANK YOU!!! Prior to the letter, I had replaced the old panel, labeled all wiring and cleaned up the mess. The problem was how to replace the mast wiring. As you guys pointed out, a wire fish will work. That will be my next project. I have spend many, many hours working on this fixer upper and look forward to spending more time sailing than working. Its our 4th boat and the most enjoyable to sail, so I think its all worth it. Thanks again. Larry
Thanks to all of you who provided the additional information. THANK YOU!!! Prior to the letter, I had replaced the old panel, labeled all wiring and cleaned up the mess. The problem was how to replace the mast wiring. As you guys pointed out, a wire fish will work. That will be my next project. I have spend many, many hours working on this fixer upper and look forward to spending more time sailing than working. Its our 4th boat and the most enjoyable to sail, so I think its all worth it. Thanks again. Larry
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