I have been up the mast twice and the steaming light still doesn't work. I steel brushed the contacts and can measure 11.67v difference, but it won't light up. I tested the bulb at the battery and it works. I'm stumped at the dock and want to fix it before I go out again. Sunset comes earlier but we year-around sail down here. All suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, JimC "Dream Chaser"
- Status
Maybe?
I'll precede this by saying that I know only enough about DC systems to be dangerous. That said, it sounds like your voltage at the steaming light may be a little low. If the light works at the battery but not at the light fixture, maybe there is too much of a voltage drop. If you have 11.67 at the fixture, what do you have at the battery? If the drop is significant, maybe you have a loose or a corroded connection somewhere. If you measure the voltage from the hot wire to a known good ground, and the voltage comes up closer to your battery voltage, your problem is on the ground side of the circuit. If there is no change, then your problem is on the hot side. Hope this helps. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
I'll precede this by saying that I know only enough about DC systems to be dangerous. That said, it sounds like your voltage at the steaming light may be a little low. If the light works at the battery but not at the light fixture, maybe there is too much of a voltage drop. If you have 11.67 at the fixture, what do you have at the battery? If the drop is significant, maybe you have a loose or a corroded connection somewhere. If you measure the voltage from the hot wire to a known good ground, and the voltage comes up closer to your battery voltage, your problem is on the ground side of the circuit. If there is no change, then your problem is on the hot side. Hope this helps. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Is the bulb seating correctly?
If the socket is like a 110V blub, the small contact for the middle of the socket may be pushed in. It will read on your VOM, however the bulb will not make contact. Make sure the breaker is off, back up the mast and use a percision piece of equipment (like a paper clip) to pull the contact out slightly. too far and it will break. RREgge S/V Allie Kat
If the socket is like a 110V blub, the small contact for the middle of the socket may be pushed in. It will read on your VOM, however the bulb will not make contact. Make sure the breaker is off, back up the mast and use a percision piece of equipment (like a paper clip) to pull the contact out slightly. too far and it will break. RREgge S/V Allie Kat
Bulb pins
Most bulbs have two solder heads on the bottom of the bulb. They go into the socket and depress the contacts in the socket. If one of the solder button head is worn or missing it will not contact the socket correctly. Buy a new bulb and try it. r.w.landau
Most bulbs have two solder heads on the bottom of the bulb. They go into the socket and depress the contacts in the socket. If one of the solder button head is worn or missing it will not contact the socket correctly. Buy a new bulb and try it. r.w.landau
Steaming Light
Sean, the steaming light is the white light facing forward halfway or so up your mast. It's called a "steaming light" since it's supposed to be on when the boat is under power as opposed to under sail. Jim, even at slightly low voltage I'd expect the light to light to some degree. Also, at some point I'd replace the fixture rather than keep going up and down the mast. Besides, my approach keeps West Marine in business and aren't we all supposed to support the economy by spending?
Sean, the steaming light is the white light facing forward halfway or so up your mast. It's called a "steaming light" since it's supposed to be on when the boat is under power as opposed to under sail. Jim, even at slightly low voltage I'd expect the light to light to some degree. Also, at some point I'd replace the fixture rather than keep going up and down the mast. Besides, my approach keeps West Marine in business and aren't we all supposed to support the economy by spending?
Thanks Bob, BUT...
I have several local economies vying for my support. Sorry, I guess I wasn't very precise. This fixture uses the cylindrical style bulb about 2.5 in long and .5 inch diameter with caps on each end. It fits vertically between metal contacts at each end that hold it in position. That's why I was able to clean the contacts with a steel brush. Thanks, JimC
I have several local economies vying for my support. Sorry, I guess I wasn't very precise. This fixture uses the cylindrical style bulb about 2.5 in long and .5 inch diameter with caps on each end. It fits vertically between metal contacts at each end that hold it in position. That's why I was able to clean the contacts with a steel brush. Thanks, JimC
Voltage drop
It sounds like you have a voltage drop along the line somewhere. If you were to test the bulb at the battery, and measure the voltage across the the bulb at the same time, you will probably measure full battery voltage. If you do the same test at the socket on the mast, with bulb in place and switched on, you will probably see the voltage drop to a very low level. This is caused by a load, or resistance somewhere between the battery and the socket for your steaming light. You have cleaned the terminals, the most obvious place. The second most obvious place is any connector in the path, perhaps at the base of the mast where your mast wires connect to the boat wiring. The third place I would check is any connection at the steaming light switch, and then to the battery itself. Since one side of your battery is grounded, most DC lights use the hot side to the lamp element, and use common ground for the return path instead of a seperate wire to the battery. Since you have a socket that uses two terminal, one for the plus-12 volts, and one for ground, you might check that ground side. Does it screw to the mast or perhaps splice to another ground wire? Good luck on your hunt. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
It sounds like you have a voltage drop along the line somewhere. If you were to test the bulb at the battery, and measure the voltage across the the bulb at the same time, you will probably measure full battery voltage. If you do the same test at the socket on the mast, with bulb in place and switched on, you will probably see the voltage drop to a very low level. This is caused by a load, or resistance somewhere between the battery and the socket for your steaming light. You have cleaned the terminals, the most obvious place. The second most obvious place is any connector in the path, perhaps at the base of the mast where your mast wires connect to the boat wiring. The third place I would check is any connection at the steaming light switch, and then to the battery itself. Since one side of your battery is grounded, most DC lights use the hot side to the lamp element, and use common ground for the return path instead of a seperate wire to the battery. Since you have a socket that uses two terminal, one for the plus-12 volts, and one for ground, you might check that ground side. Does it screw to the mast or perhaps splice to another ground wire? Good luck on your hunt. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Testing Bulb
It's a long shot, but I have seen the type of bulb described develop an intermittent internal loose connection. I have re-soldered one, but maybe trying your spare bulb (you do have one?) would be worth a try.
It's a long shot, but I have seen the type of bulb described develop an intermittent internal loose connection. I have re-soldered one, but maybe trying your spare bulb (you do have one?) would be worth a try.
Another hint
1. Install the lamp in its socket. 2. Disconnect the connector at the base of the mast. 3. Measure the DC resistance with a digital volt-ohm-meter. You should read only a few ohms, the resistance of the bulb with the resistance of the wires leading to it. This test will tell you if the problem is in the wiring in the mast. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
1. Install the lamp in its socket. 2. Disconnect the connector at the base of the mast. 3. Measure the DC resistance with a digital volt-ohm-meter. You should read only a few ohms, the resistance of the bulb with the resistance of the wires leading to it. This test will tell you if the problem is in the wiring in the mast. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Dielectric Grease
To help prevent further corrosion some dielectric grease could be put on the metal end of the bulb and in the bulb socket. The dielectric grease is available at NAPA and automotive parts stores. Blue Sea also sells this now. Ox-Gard, link below, is an anti-oxidation conductive grease that could be used on the wire connections or terminals (light bulbs, wire harness connectors, etc.) The distinction between the two is that the dielectric grease is non-conductive and should be used on multible contacts where as the Ox-Gard is a conductive grease and should be used on single contacts (spade and bullet connectors, etc.) For the screws that hold the steaming light lens on put on some Lanocote to prevent corrosion. http://www.forespar.com/catalog/misc/lanocote.htm I had a running light go out on me this summer and when taking the lens off the long thin screw that holds it on sheared off and I had to buy a whole new steaming light. For the stainless screws that attach the steaming light to the mast use Lanocote or Never Seze (sp?), assuming they can still be removed without shearing off.
To help prevent further corrosion some dielectric grease could be put on the metal end of the bulb and in the bulb socket. The dielectric grease is available at NAPA and automotive parts stores. Blue Sea also sells this now. Ox-Gard, link below, is an anti-oxidation conductive grease that could be used on the wire connections or terminals (light bulbs, wire harness connectors, etc.) The distinction between the two is that the dielectric grease is non-conductive and should be used on multible contacts where as the Ox-Gard is a conductive grease and should be used on single contacts (spade and bullet connectors, etc.) For the screws that hold the steaming light lens on put on some Lanocote to prevent corrosion. http://www.forespar.com/catalog/misc/lanocote.htm I had a running light go out on me this summer and when taking the lens off the long thin screw that holds it on sheared off and I had to buy a whole new steaming light. For the stainless screws that attach the steaming light to the mast use Lanocote or Never Seze (sp?), assuming they can still be removed without shearing off.
One more thing...
My wiring doesn't have a connector at the bottom of the mast. On this model O'27, the wiring goes down the mast and directly through the mast step, through the deck. Then it goes to the starboard side between the cabin roof and the headliner. I can't trace it until it gets back to the starboard quarterberth which is only about 3 feet from the fuse panel. I'm thinking about adding another fuse panel because I bought a tillerpilot. Furthermore, the steaming light is on the same switch as the running lights. I will probably move all of the lighting to the new panel. I'll get the grease for the new connections. Thanks to everybody. JimC
My wiring doesn't have a connector at the bottom of the mast. On this model O'27, the wiring goes down the mast and directly through the mast step, through the deck. Then it goes to the starboard side between the cabin roof and the headliner. I can't trace it until it gets back to the starboard quarterberth which is only about 3 feet from the fuse panel. I'm thinking about adding another fuse panel because I bought a tillerpilot. Furthermore, the steaming light is on the same switch as the running lights. I will probably move all of the lighting to the new panel. I'll get the grease for the new connections. Thanks to everybody. JimC
How do you step mast?
Jim, it sounds like the wires in the mast have no way to disconnect when you step your mast. Is this right??? Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Jim, it sounds like the wires in the mast have no way to disconnect when you step your mast. Is this right??? Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Ken, I don't step the mast.
The mast can't be easily stepped. I've never done it. There is no bolt or anything holding the mast on. I've been told that the mast is held down by the rigging and you have to loosen the standing rigging and raise/lift the mast straight up off of the step base (which extends up inside the mast a few inches). I assume there is a connection inside the mast but the mast would have to be removed to get to it. Sincerely, JimC
The mast can't be easily stepped. I've never done it. There is no bolt or anything holding the mast on. I've been told that the mast is held down by the rigging and you have to loosen the standing rigging and raise/lift the mast straight up off of the step base (which extends up inside the mast a few inches). I assume there is a connection inside the mast but the mast would have to be removed to get to it. Sincerely, JimC
Steaming light problem
John, I've got a similar problem with my light. The only difference is when the connectors are moistened(usually with spit)they go on. I've tried all kinds of spray(corrosivex,contact spray,etc). Nothing seems to work. The connectors at the base of the mast are three pronged. Would the stuff at NAPA work? Paul H 95 H26
John, I've got a similar problem with my light. The only difference is when the connectors are moistened(usually with spit)they go on. I've tried all kinds of spray(corrosivex,contact spray,etc). Nothing seems to work. The connectors at the base of the mast are three pronged. Would the stuff at NAPA work? Paul H 95 H26
Perhaps it's time...
Jim, Your mast is held in place like most sailboats. The standing rigging does indeed hold the mast up. You are right, the foot of the mast fits over a short lip at the base, probably an inch or so. Masts are lifted off with a large pole that is attached to a rope or strap around your mast. It is then lifted so the rope is under your spreaders. The standing rigging is then loosened and the pole pulls the mast up over the lip at the base. The wires are disconnected and the mast is then swung hoizontal as it is lowered onto your deck or onto the ground. We have to go through this every year up here in Rochester, and I step and un-step my mast on my Hunter 33 using our yacht club equipment. If I hire the yard to do it, the cost is about $200. Anyway, there must be a connector at the base of your mast in order to get it down. Before doing that, try the test I described earlier. If you have high resistance across the line, your connector is probably corroded. Keep in touch. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Jim, Your mast is held in place like most sailboats. The standing rigging does indeed hold the mast up. You are right, the foot of the mast fits over a short lip at the base, probably an inch or so. Masts are lifted off with a large pole that is attached to a rope or strap around your mast. It is then lifted so the rope is under your spreaders. The standing rigging is then loosened and the pole pulls the mast up over the lip at the base. The wires are disconnected and the mast is then swung hoizontal as it is lowered onto your deck or onto the ground. We have to go through this every year up here in Rochester, and I step and un-step my mast on my Hunter 33 using our yacht club equipment. If I hire the yard to do it, the cost is about $200. Anyway, there must be a connector at the base of your mast in order to get it down. Before doing that, try the test I described earlier. If you have high resistance across the line, your connector is probably corroded. Keep in touch. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Resistance is Futile
I had this problem in my house. I measured 120V in the circuits but none of them could carry a load, in other words insufficient amps could flow in the lines to light bulbs etc. It turns out the electric company replaced my service line and clamped the wire at the line on the street over some insulation, I was getting voltage but no current. You probably have corroded wires, if the wires were not pre-tinned then corrosion will continue all along the length of the wire inside the insulation. If the effective wire diameter is reduced to say 1/16 (for example only) of the original size, it will still show the right voltage but can't carry the current you need to light the bulb. Do a resistance check on the circuit as previously recommended and you'll probably find you need new wires. Use good quality pre-tinned wire (only thing that should ever go in a boat) and use as large gage wire (less resistance) as practical, the runs up and down a mast and back to the battery are pretty long. Get a book and use what they recommend. Good luck dave
I had this problem in my house. I measured 120V in the circuits but none of them could carry a load, in other words insufficient amps could flow in the lines to light bulbs etc. It turns out the electric company replaced my service line and clamped the wire at the line on the street over some insulation, I was getting voltage but no current. You probably have corroded wires, if the wires were not pre-tinned then corrosion will continue all along the length of the wire inside the insulation. If the effective wire diameter is reduced to say 1/16 (for example only) of the original size, it will still show the right voltage but can't carry the current you need to light the bulb. Do a resistance check on the circuit as previously recommended and you'll probably find you need new wires. Use good quality pre-tinned wire (only thing that should ever go in a boat) and use as large gage wire (less resistance) as practical, the runs up and down a mast and back to the battery are pretty long. Get a book and use what they recommend. Good luck dave
Sounds like a bad connection to me
Sometimes on a low voltage DC system a high resistence in a connection will allow voltage but not amperage to flow to (and be measured at) the empty socket, but when a load is applied, a bulb in this case and amps are drawn over the circuit, the voltage dissappears. To confirm this check the voltage with the bulb in place and the light switched on. If you have little to no voltage the resistance is very high at some point. You can also use an ohm meter and a known good piece of wire to determine the resistance of each leg of your circuit.
Sometimes on a low voltage DC system a high resistence in a connection will allow voltage but not amperage to flow to (and be measured at) the empty socket, but when a load is applied, a bulb in this case and amps are drawn over the circuit, the voltage dissappears. To confirm this check the voltage with the bulb in place and the light switched on. If you have little to no voltage the resistance is very high at some point. You can also use an ohm meter and a known good piece of wire to determine the resistance of each leg of your circuit.
- Status