After running out of fuel last week, I am unable to restart the engine. Am i required now to bleed the fuel system or am i missing some obvious trick?
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bleed the fuel systen
You will neeed to bleed the fuel system to restart the engine. It is a easy enough job to do and something you should know how to do for emergency purposes! Read the book or have a good mechanic show you how to do it if you are not familar with it. This would be a good time to change both fuel filters (based on running out of fuel and possible having sucked up junk off the bottom of the tank) Good Luck !
You will neeed to bleed the fuel system to restart the engine. It is a easy enough job to do and something you should know how to do for emergency purposes! Read the book or have a good mechanic show you how to do it if you are not familar with it. This would be a good time to change both fuel filters (based on running out of fuel and possible having sucked up junk off the bottom of the tank) Good Luck !
You have got air in the system.
Terry: If you ran out of fuel, you have air between the tank and the injectors. You may want to add some fuel to the primary filter and the secondary filter before you start priming the system. This will just speed up the process. Then just start pumping with the first bleed screw opened. Once the bubbles stop and you have a steady stream of fuel tighten the bleed point and move up the engine. Once you think you have the system totally bled you should be able to start the engine. Be sure to have your boat tied tightly in it slip. Start your engine. Once it is warm, put it in gear and rev it up to 1200-2000 rpm and let it run for a good half hour. If it continues to run you are probably OK. The reason to let it run in gear is to make sure that the system is completely free of air. If you just idle the engine you really will not know if you do not have a air pocket in the system.
Terry: If you ran out of fuel, you have air between the tank and the injectors. You may want to add some fuel to the primary filter and the secondary filter before you start priming the system. This will just speed up the process. Then just start pumping with the first bleed screw opened. Once the bubbles stop and you have a steady stream of fuel tighten the bleed point and move up the engine. Once you think you have the system totally bled you should be able to start the engine. Be sure to have your boat tied tightly in it slip. Start your engine. Once it is warm, put it in gear and rev it up to 1200-2000 rpm and let it run for a good half hour. If it continues to run you are probably OK. The reason to let it run in gear is to make sure that the system is completely free of air. If you just idle the engine you really will not know if you do not have a air pocket in the system.
WD-40??
I read somewhere that instead of bleeding through the whole diesel fuel line, just spray WD-40 into the air intake. The diesel will suppposedly run long enough to self bleed. I don't know if it works. I have not tired it. What do others think?
I read somewhere that instead of bleeding through the whole diesel fuel line, just spray WD-40 into the air intake. The diesel will suppposedly run long enough to self bleed. I don't know if it works. I have not tired it. What do others think?
This is like starting fluid.
Chuck: Maybe using WD40 as a last resort would be OK (but not advised). This is the same thing as using ether (also not advised). There was a post in the last couple of weeks regarding this exact thing. The recomendation was to NOT use it. I seriously doubt that this would help make the engine run except for a few moments anyway. If you have air in your fuel lines you somehow need to get the lines purged so the fuel will flow.
Chuck: Maybe using WD40 as a last resort would be OK (but not advised). This is the same thing as using ether (also not advised). There was a post in the last couple of weeks regarding this exact thing. The recomendation was to NOT use it. I seriously doubt that this would help make the engine run except for a few moments anyway. If you have air in your fuel lines you somehow need to get the lines purged so the fuel will flow.
Read Your Yanmar Manual
The manual about the engine that came with my boat has a section that goes into the installing and getting the engine started for the first time. Basically it says to bleed the air out at each junction while turning the engine over. (I had a fuel line on my diesel come loose once and sucked air into the engine) by follow the procedures in the manual I was able to get the engine started with no trouble. The basic technique is to crack the fitting opening enough that when the fuel pump applies the pressure wait until you see fuel begin to spray from fitting then tighten fitting back down. I hope this helps.
The manual about the engine that came with my boat has a section that goes into the installing and getting the engine started for the first time. Basically it says to bleed the air out at each junction while turning the engine over. (I had a fuel line on my diesel come loose once and sucked air into the engine) by follow the procedures in the manual I was able to get the engine started with no trouble. The basic technique is to crack the fitting opening enough that when the fuel pump applies the pressure wait until you see fuel begin to spray from fitting then tighten fitting back down. I hope this helps.
Bleed and WD-40
I have had this problem several times on my Yanmar SB8. When you bleed the system, take the vent hose off and plug with your finger. Open the fill and blow into it to give positive pressure. This will fill the seperator and the filter canister. The problem comes in getting the fuel past the high pressure pump. Most of the time on my engine there is not enough suction to pull it through by just cranking the engine. I was told by a long time sailor to use just a quit quirt of WD-40 to get the engine to fire. I tried it and it fired up easily. I had to do it one more time then had no problems with it continuing to run. I agree that using it is a last resort but it is not as bad as ether. Never use ether. Hope this helps. Be sure to replace the vent hose.
I have had this problem several times on my Yanmar SB8. When you bleed the system, take the vent hose off and plug with your finger. Open the fill and blow into it to give positive pressure. This will fill the seperator and the filter canister. The problem comes in getting the fuel past the high pressure pump. Most of the time on my engine there is not enough suction to pull it through by just cranking the engine. I was told by a long time sailor to use just a quit quirt of WD-40 to get the engine to fire. I tried it and it fired up easily. I had to do it one more time then had no problems with it continuing to run. I agree that using it is a last resort but it is not as bad as ether. Never use ether. Hope this helps. Be sure to replace the vent hose.
While you're down there
The most important 4 words in sailing-while you're down there! If you ran the tank bone dry you might have some sucked the thickest of tank trash to the filters. You might as well replace the filters now so you don't have to bleed the system again.
The most important 4 words in sailing-while you're down there! If you ran the tank bone dry you might have some sucked the thickest of tank trash to the filters. You might as well replace the filters now so you don't have to bleed the system again.
Easy Fix
Get a bulb pump (for an outboard) and install it between the tank and the first filter, "wala" anytime the motor needs bleeding you can pump the fuel through! Works Great!!
Get a bulb pump (for an outboard) and install it between the tank and the first filter, "wala" anytime the motor needs bleeding you can pump the fuel through! Works Great!!
Easy Fix
Get a bulb pump (for an outboard) and install it between the tank and the first filter, "wala" anytime the motor needs bleeding you can pump the fuel through! Works Great!!
Get a bulb pump (for an outboard) and install it between the tank and the first filter, "wala" anytime the motor needs bleeding you can pump the fuel through! Works Great!!
Manual lever on the fuel pump
There is a manual lever on the bottom of the fuel pump that can be used to bleed the system without turning the engine over. I've done this numerious times without ever needing someone to turn the engine over. Keep pumping the lever until the fuel streams out of the fitting.
There is a manual lever on the bottom of the fuel pump that can be used to bleed the system without turning the engine over. I've done this numerious times without ever needing someone to turn the engine over. Keep pumping the lever until the fuel streams out of the fitting.
Agree with Rob!
The pump bulb is a great idea if you are looking for another place for the system to fail. The best way (NOT the Easiest) is to use the thumb pump of the fuel pump to bleed the system.
The pump bulb is a great idea if you are looking for another place for the system to fail. The best way (NOT the Easiest) is to use the thumb pump of the fuel pump to bleed the system.
Thumb pump
Hello Terry: Just a note to add to other posts. If you use the thumb lever, be aware pump can be on the cam lob and it will be ineffecctive. To cure, rotate engine slightly. Good luck red
Hello Terry: Just a note to add to other posts. If you use the thumb lever, be aware pump can be on the cam lob and it will be ineffecctive. To cure, rotate engine slightly. Good luck red
Fixed on the second bleed screw -- thanks all
So you know, we had success, tho with and assist from a qualified mechanic. The bleed process was an obvious approach but had trouble until it was pointed out that there is a second bleed screw between the filter and the cylinders. Dont know if there is true for the 3GM, but i was not familar from my days owning the single lung used on the h27s. Once we found that she came to life in minutes. I dont deserve to have such a predictable piece of equipment. thanks again for your responses.
So you know, we had success, tho with and assist from a qualified mechanic. The bleed process was an obvious approach but had trouble until it was pointed out that there is a second bleed screw between the filter and the cylinders. Dont know if there is true for the 3GM, but i was not familar from my days owning the single lung used on the h27s. Once we found that she came to life in minutes. I dont deserve to have such a predictable piece of equipment. thanks again for your responses.
Don't Just Turn The Engine Over
I don't pretend to be any kind of expert on a Yanmar, but I'll pass on something I learned last year. I had a fouled fuel filter, and one of our mechs was walking by and heard me turning over the engine and almost had a heart attack. The yard mechanics at our marina - a Hunter dealership - all said NEVER NEVER EVER sit and turn over a Yanmar. When you are turning it over with the starter, you are turning over the exhaust water pump, and without exhaust pressure you can back the water up into your cylinder heads. That's a new motor. Our area expert on Yanmar's said if it doesn't start in the firs 2-3 seconds, you have something wrong. Period. Bleed it with the little lever on the engine; the bulb idea mentioned in an earlier post was also good. But the folks I deal with are emphatic - don't sit there turning over a Yanmar that won't start unless you want to buy a new one.
I don't pretend to be any kind of expert on a Yanmar, but I'll pass on something I learned last year. I had a fouled fuel filter, and one of our mechs was walking by and heard me turning over the engine and almost had a heart attack. The yard mechanics at our marina - a Hunter dealership - all said NEVER NEVER EVER sit and turn over a Yanmar. When you are turning it over with the starter, you are turning over the exhaust water pump, and without exhaust pressure you can back the water up into your cylinder heads. That's a new motor. Our area expert on Yanmar's said if it doesn't start in the firs 2-3 seconds, you have something wrong. Period. Bleed it with the little lever on the engine; the bulb idea mentioned in an earlier post was also good. But the folks I deal with are emphatic - don't sit there turning over a Yanmar that won't start unless you want to buy a new one.
Reality
Hello Terry: I am not a mechanic, but I am a DIY and reading your mechanics caution, these are my thoughts. While the engine is rotating, air is being compressed. At a 20:1 ratio, this means it's pumped up to a very high pressure. When the exhaust valve opens this pressure is released to the exhaust manifold. I find it hard to understand how water is going to overcome this and enter the cylinders. I have probably cranked my 2GM20 for about 30 sec while bleeding ('till I added a squeeze bulb) with no problems. I wonder if anyone has actually filled cylinders with water while cranking? Anyway, can't hurt to turn off raw water 'till engine starts. Good luck red
Hello Terry: I am not a mechanic, but I am a DIY and reading your mechanics caution, these are my thoughts. While the engine is rotating, air is being compressed. At a 20:1 ratio, this means it's pumped up to a very high pressure. When the exhaust valve opens this pressure is released to the exhaust manifold. I find it hard to understand how water is going to overcome this and enter the cylinders. I have probably cranked my 2GM20 for about 30 sec while bleeding ('till I added a squeeze bulb) with no problems. I wonder if anyone has actually filled cylinders with water while cranking? Anyway, can't hurt to turn off raw water 'till engine starts. Good luck red
Water Lift Muffler flooding
The danger is in filling the water lift muffler. When running, there is sufficient exhaust flow to expell the water. There is a greater exhaust volume, because of the fuel/air explosion. When cranking, you are just "bubbling" the air though the muffler, and don't have enough pressure or volume to carry the water out. The big question is the height of the mixing elbow above the water lift muffler, and the height of the exhaust hose after the water lift muffler.
The danger is in filling the water lift muffler. When running, there is sufficient exhaust flow to expell the water. There is a greater exhaust volume, because of the fuel/air explosion. When cranking, you are just "bubbling" the air though the muffler, and don't have enough pressure or volume to carry the water out. The big question is the height of the mixing elbow above the water lift muffler, and the height of the exhaust hose after the water lift muffler.
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