Moving along with my 1979 H37C project, I am getting ready to tackle the the 2QM20 after it has been sitting idle for 6 years. The engine is free and I am able to crank it over with the hand crank and have a few questions: I would prefer to start the engine on dry land and run it for a little while before splashing the boat. (Problems are easier to adress that way). Can I start the engine with a garden hose, with city pressured water to the raw water input for cooling ? What oil pump product would you recommend for removal of the engine oils ? I will replace impellers, clean filters, change oil, etc. before proceeding. Any other advice or areas to look at ? Thanks, Richard H37C Rhapsodie
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Unmothballing
Richard, You should be able to run the engine on a garden hose, although I'd cut the end off a 1/2" hose and clamp it directly to the raw pump. Any way to suck out the odl oil the better. Consider puting a heater under the oil pan for a few days to warm the oil and help it flow. Before starting OPEN the decompression levers and spray WD-40 in the intake while turning over the engine. Then you'll proubably need full throtle while you try to start. After 6 years there is the posibility the rings arn't sealing causing low compression and an inability to start. Keep us updated on your progress. Pat McCartin 1979/80 H-30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
Richard, You should be able to run the engine on a garden hose, although I'd cut the end off a 1/2" hose and clamp it directly to the raw pump. Any way to suck out the odl oil the better. Consider puting a heater under the oil pan for a few days to warm the oil and help it flow. Before starting OPEN the decompression levers and spray WD-40 in the intake while turning over the engine. Then you'll proubably need full throtle while you try to start. After 6 years there is the posibility the rings arn't sealing causing low compression and an inability to start. Keep us updated on your progress. Pat McCartin 1979/80 H-30 "Therapy" Lake Lanier, GA
I Would .....
Manually pump all the fuel out of the tank and start with fresh fuel. You may need to have the tank cleaned if you find a lot of dark chunks clogging the filter. Be sure not to put on the water pressure until after the motor starts and be sure to turn it off immediately when it stops. You risk flooding the engine with water through the exhaust valves. Another safer method would be to take the hose off the thru hull valve and place it in a bucket of water. Even with this method you may have trouble if you crank too long before it starts.
Manually pump all the fuel out of the tank and start with fresh fuel. You may need to have the tank cleaned if you find a lot of dark chunks clogging the filter. Be sure not to put on the water pressure until after the motor starts and be sure to turn it off immediately when it stops. You risk flooding the engine with water through the exhaust valves. Another safer method would be to take the hose off the thru hull valve and place it in a bucket of water. Even with this method you may have trouble if you crank too long before it starts.
running on dry land
Since the engine water pump is designed to operate on the suction side with the very low pressure of only a foot or so submergence, you should try to reproduce this condition with the water intake hose taking suction out of a barrel or bucket kept filled with a garden hose. Below is a link to my experience with running on dry land after being land locked for a year and a half. Don't do what I did. As has been pointed out, direct application of city water pressure to the intake will certainly much increase the danger of feeding water back into the engine exhaust valves and thus to the crankcase.
Since the engine water pump is designed to operate on the suction side with the very low pressure of only a foot or so submergence, you should try to reproduce this condition with the water intake hose taking suction out of a barrel or bucket kept filled with a garden hose. Below is a link to my experience with running on dry land after being land locked for a year and a half. Don't do what I did. As has been pointed out, direct application of city water pressure to the intake will certainly much increase the danger of feeding water back into the engine exhaust valves and thus to the crankcase.
Ask a pro
Mack Boring in New Jersey has cogent advice on this. The main thing is to ensure the internal parts are properly re-lubricated to avoid seizure. Try their web site or try Yanmar's as well.
Mack Boring in New Jersey has cogent advice on this. The main thing is to ensure the internal parts are properly re-lubricated to avoid seizure. Try their web site or try Yanmar's as well.
Good advice here.
Think the guys covered it. I just wanted to reinforce what Barry wrote about the fuel issue. Maybe you already cleaned out the tank, lines, and filters? Even bled everything with the lever on the fuel pump? As for lubrication maybe save the last half quart of new oil. Then put it in right before starting to lube the top end. I get good results with the Tempo Oil Boy(Related Link) for extraction. I also use it for cleaning the diesel tank and changing tranny oil. The 2QM20 fills this to the brim so I know when all the oil is out. I use the bucket approach when I run my 2QM20 on the cradle. I do this each season, they want you out of there and away from the crane after launch. So I want to know she is going to start. It is also a good check of the electrical. Let us know.
Think the guys covered it. I just wanted to reinforce what Barry wrote about the fuel issue. Maybe you already cleaned out the tank, lines, and filters? Even bled everything with the lever on the fuel pump? As for lubrication maybe save the last half quart of new oil. Then put it in right before starting to lube the top end. I get good results with the Tempo Oil Boy(Related Link) for extraction. I also use it for cleaning the diesel tank and changing tranny oil. The 2QM20 fills this to the brim so I know when all the oil is out. I use the bucket approach when I run my 2QM20 on the cradle. I do this each season, they want you out of there and away from the crane after launch. So I want to know she is going to start. It is also a good check of the electrical. Let us know.
Caution on Runaway Engine
Probably the biggest concern with a lengthy non-use is with the fuel. It's already been mentioned about the possible crud growning in it and the development of sludge. A caution might be that the fuel return line gets constricted, not necessarily even closed off or plugged but just a smaller cross-sectional area, from crud that adhered to the inside walls of the tube. What can/will happen is the back-pressure from the returning fuel will feed the injectors and cause a runaway engine. This condition creats an engine running at peak speed belching black smoke and there is no control (engine shutoff or throttle) that can turn it off. If you are prepared ahead of time for this it isn't so bad. Have access to the engine air cleaner. Take something hard, even the sole of your shoe, and put it over the air cleaner intake. This will starve the engine of air and it will stop. Do not use anything soft - hand, blanket, etc. as it can be sucked in. Shutting off the fuel line isn't that workable because it will take a long time for all the fuel to be burned assuming the engine is still in running condition. Also suggest replacing the fuel filters because they will probably have growth in them too.
Probably the biggest concern with a lengthy non-use is with the fuel. It's already been mentioned about the possible crud growning in it and the development of sludge. A caution might be that the fuel return line gets constricted, not necessarily even closed off or plugged but just a smaller cross-sectional area, from crud that adhered to the inside walls of the tube. What can/will happen is the back-pressure from the returning fuel will feed the injectors and cause a runaway engine. This condition creats an engine running at peak speed belching black smoke and there is no control (engine shutoff or throttle) that can turn it off. If you are prepared ahead of time for this it isn't so bad. Have access to the engine air cleaner. Take something hard, even the sole of your shoe, and put it over the air cleaner intake. This will starve the engine of air and it will stop. Do not use anything soft - hand, blanket, etc. as it can be sucked in. Shutting off the fuel line isn't that workable because it will take a long time for all the fuel to be burned assuming the engine is still in running condition. Also suggest replacing the fuel filters because they will probably have growth in them too.
Good point,
if you've never experienced a runaway engine,believe me,you don't want to! Thanks John.
if you've never experienced a runaway engine,believe me,you don't want to! Thanks John.
Thanks for the responses
If the weather cooperates, I will probably attempt the starup sometime next week or weekend. Thanks for the help. I will keep you posted. Richard 1979 H37C Rhapsodie
If the weather cooperates, I will probably attempt the starup sometime next week or weekend. Thanks for the help. I will keep you posted. Richard 1979 H37C Rhapsodie
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