Can anyone help me with what I think is a starter problem? When I first arrive at my boat the yanmar 2gm20f starts first time everytime. However after an afternoon or day of sailing when its time to head for the dock it takes several attempts (4-5) to get the motor started.Its as if a connection is not being made as the motor does not even turn over. I have a designated starting battery which checks good. I replaced the momentary starting switch,and checked all electrical wires/connections.I am wondering if its possible that the armature heats up on the way out and then drags when I later go to start. Is this possible? Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.... Don in Florida
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Douglas
Starter
It is a symtom of a bad starter to work ok cold but not when hot. To be sure that is your problem, you need to check the available voltage at the starter solenoid when the starter switch is pushed. If you have plenty of voltage - should be battery voltage - then your starter is probably suspect. Be sure your engine ground is good. I had a the same problem. I removed the starter and took it to a repair shop. They check it and then put it in an "oven" and checked it when hot. It had a clean bill of health. When I reinstalled it, I pulled the engine harness connector apart while it was in sight and plugged it back in. After that I haven't had the problem. Probably a coincidence. You will really need to check the voltage at the starter solenoid when you experience the no start. If it isn't starting, cross the small solenoid terminal and the large post on the starter - that will by pass the solenoid and should run the starter motor if the motor is good. -Doug s/v BRENDA GAIL
It is a symtom of a bad starter to work ok cold but not when hot. To be sure that is your problem, you need to check the available voltage at the starter solenoid when the starter switch is pushed. If you have plenty of voltage - should be battery voltage - then your starter is probably suspect. Be sure your engine ground is good. I had a the same problem. I removed the starter and took it to a repair shop. They check it and then put it in an "oven" and checked it when hot. It had a clean bill of health. When I reinstalled it, I pulled the engine harness connector apart while it was in sight and plugged it back in. After that I haven't had the problem. Probably a coincidence. You will really need to check the voltage at the starter solenoid when you experience the no start. If it isn't starting, cross the small solenoid terminal and the large post on the starter - that will by pass the solenoid and should run the starter motor if the motor is good. -Doug s/v BRENDA GAIL
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Eric Lorgus
Me, too
Don, I have a 87H285 with a similar problem. Mine doesn't seem to be related to whether the engine is hot or cold, but the symptoms sound the same. I push the starter, I hear the click of the solenoid, but it doesn't crank. This happens erratically. Other times, a push of the button results in the starter cranking and the Yanmar 2GM20F almost always starts on the second or third crank. I've already tried pulling the starter out to have it checked. The automotive electric shop I took it to couldn't find anything wrong with the starter, but they weren't able to rule out the solenoid because they couldn't test it. They did suggest I test the voltage drop on both sides of the starter circuit (the cables that run from the battery to the starter) to rule out high resistance as a possibility. With this age boat, that's possible. Here's what he said to try. Using a digital voltmeter with a maximum value trap, connect one lead to the positive terminal of the battery, and the other lead to the positive terminal on the starter motor. Try to crank the engine. If it cranks, stop it, reset the meter, and try again. The condition you're trying to capture is the one where it clicks but won't crank. If the voltage difference is more than 1/2 volt, the problem is likely too much resistance. Repeat the test using the negative terminals. The other possibility is a bad solenoid. I got a quote for a replacement solenoid for $25 through my mechanic from Arco, but minimum order there is $50. If you decide to replace your solenoid, let me know, maybe we can make a joint purchase. Eric Lorgus s/v Explorer 87H285
Don, I have a 87H285 with a similar problem. Mine doesn't seem to be related to whether the engine is hot or cold, but the symptoms sound the same. I push the starter, I hear the click of the solenoid, but it doesn't crank. This happens erratically. Other times, a push of the button results in the starter cranking and the Yanmar 2GM20F almost always starts on the second or third crank. I've already tried pulling the starter out to have it checked. The automotive electric shop I took it to couldn't find anything wrong with the starter, but they weren't able to rule out the solenoid because they couldn't test it. They did suggest I test the voltage drop on both sides of the starter circuit (the cables that run from the battery to the starter) to rule out high resistance as a possibility. With this age boat, that's possible. Here's what he said to try. Using a digital voltmeter with a maximum value trap, connect one lead to the positive terminal of the battery, and the other lead to the positive terminal on the starter motor. Try to crank the engine. If it cranks, stop it, reset the meter, and try again. The condition you're trying to capture is the one where it clicks but won't crank. If the voltage difference is more than 1/2 volt, the problem is likely too much resistance. Repeat the test using the negative terminals. The other possibility is a bad solenoid. I got a quote for a replacement solenoid for $25 through my mechanic from Arco, but minimum order there is $50. If you decide to replace your solenoid, let me know, maybe we can make a joint purchase. Eric Lorgus s/v Explorer 87H285
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Tim Schaaf
A strange solution
Here is something novel that worked for me. Deducing that I had a voltage drop on the long run of wire that goes to the starter switch and back to the solenoid (but not in the battery cable that powers the starter), I got a second, external solenoid from a car parts store. This is an old Ford type solenoid that works on seven volts. This is installed adjacent to the engine, with its own short positive wire from the selector switch and from it to the original starter solenoid (12 volts). There is sufficient voltage from the starter button to activate the external seven volt selenoid, which then closes and sends 12 volts to the normal solenoid, which then closes and the starter starts! The external solenoid also has a little button that can activate it, so I have a way to start the engine from inside the engine compartment, without having to short the terminals on the starter. I cannot remember the genius who recommended this to me, but it works. And, considering how many starter switches, cables, etc., get some corrosion and hence resistance on them, it ain't a bad system.
Here is something novel that worked for me. Deducing that I had a voltage drop on the long run of wire that goes to the starter switch and back to the solenoid (but not in the battery cable that powers the starter), I got a second, external solenoid from a car parts store. This is an old Ford type solenoid that works on seven volts. This is installed adjacent to the engine, with its own short positive wire from the selector switch and from it to the original starter solenoid (12 volts). There is sufficient voltage from the starter button to activate the external seven volt selenoid, which then closes and sends 12 volts to the normal solenoid, which then closes and the starter starts! The external solenoid also has a little button that can activate it, so I have a way to start the engine from inside the engine compartment, without having to short the terminals on the starter. I cannot remember the genius who recommended this to me, but it works. And, considering how many starter switches, cables, etc., get some corrosion and hence resistance on them, it ain't a bad system.
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Kevin
Satrter Blues?
I have an 86 28.5 with the same situation. I also have two batteries, one with 1000 CCA and a second with 500, so power gennerally isn't a problem when both are on line. My situation maybe slightly different in that it ( no start) has occured when the engine is cold, but to a much lower frequency than hot. I believe that the 2GM20f, being a two cylinder, when shut down may stop at the top of it's compression stroke, therefore it is very had for the starter to "push it over" . With a compression of ~16:1 the effort is very large. I have noticed when I have both batteries online the failures are greatly reduced. Sometimes I try to startup on the Deep Cycle( 500 CCA) and are unable to do so, but when I select both batteries no issues. I put up with this for the last five seasons, but the "starting battery" makes me feel more confident I will get started.
I have an 86 28.5 with the same situation. I also have two batteries, one with 1000 CCA and a second with 500, so power gennerally isn't a problem when both are on line. My situation maybe slightly different in that it ( no start) has occured when the engine is cold, but to a much lower frequency than hot. I believe that the 2GM20f, being a two cylinder, when shut down may stop at the top of it's compression stroke, therefore it is very had for the starter to "push it over" . With a compression of ~16:1 the effort is very large. I have noticed when I have both batteries online the failures are greatly reduced. Sometimes I try to startup on the Deep Cycle( 500 CCA) and are unable to do so, but when I select both batteries no issues. I put up with this for the last five seasons, but the "starting battery" makes me feel more confident I will get started.
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Jim McCue
Maybe so
Kev- I have '86 285 2 batt and it has always kicked over on 2 batteries. Question is, on 1 battery did you hear the starter "kick in" and effectively not have enough OR did you hear nothing. I had problem intermittantly getting the starter to make a sound when I pushed the button in. I had to "zero" the key on each attempt but it usually woke up by the third attempt. So I bought a new "switch"- about $50 and no more problem. Jim McCue
Kev- I have '86 285 2 batt and it has always kicked over on 2 batteries. Question is, on 1 battery did you hear the starter "kick in" and effectively not have enough OR did you hear nothing. I had problem intermittantly getting the starter to make a sound when I pushed the button in. I had to "zero" the key on each attempt but it usually woke up by the third attempt. So I bought a new "switch"- about $50 and no more problem. Jim McCue
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