It was snowing like mad but i took the day off so i was scraping about 20 years of paint off my bottom.It is very thick about 3/16".I found a problem! The old barrier coat had a larg orange peal textere 1/4 to 3/8 in the low spots and the same in the hi spots.Most of the low spots have no paint becouse it was never prep sanded before paint and it pealed off,or came off with the scraper .I was thinking about wiping the bottom with 202 prep solvent then useing a wire brush cup on a grinder to clean and scuff the low spots .Then sandind the bottom with a portacable 6"orbital sander or a 6"randem orbital air sander .I would like to be smooth when im done ,But dont want to sand so much.My bottom is dry but want to bottom coat with interlux bottom coat wial i have the paint striped .Ive been cuting about 1/32 of the old bottom coat off with the scraper .How smooth will i have to be befor i start to water proof,the stuff gos on thick. I have no home port becouse i gave up my mooring in lake george and moved my C30 to my house for some work .Im looking for a mooring in the hudson river or Long island sound (CT) If some one needs a LG mooring I can help. John
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You have to get all the loose bottom paint and
barrier coat off and prep the bottom with a chemical prep or by sanding before you can put on the bottom kote. How smooth is up to you. there really shouldn't be low and high spots on a C30. Is there empty space, or water under the high spots? The dust is toxic. It will burn your skin and you don't want any in your lungs. Since you have air tools, consider wet sanding with a good tarp underneath to catch the wet crud. It will be a lot easier on your body.
barrier coat off and prep the bottom with a chemical prep or by sanding before you can put on the bottom kote. How smooth is up to you. there really shouldn't be low and high spots on a C30. Is there empty space, or water under the high spots? The dust is toxic. It will burn your skin and you don't want any in your lungs. Since you have air tools, consider wet sanding with a good tarp underneath to catch the wet crud. It will be a lot easier on your body.
Memories...
...I remember getting into a project like yours many years ago. I kept chipping and cutting back the bottom until I had no choice but to strip it all off. I don't know if you have removed all the bottom paint or not, but that's where to start. If you have, and are left with the epoxy tar coating, I'd sand it off as much as possible and re-barrier coat the bottom. Regardless of how thick the coating is, it will show irregularities. Trust me on that; I had a re-do to show for not having a really smooth bottom on the project in question. The customer service folks at Pettit would be worth a call before commiting more time. Don't let a wire brush anywhere near your bottom. Good luck! Rick D.
...I remember getting into a project like yours many years ago. I kept chipping and cutting back the bottom until I had no choice but to strip it all off. I don't know if you have removed all the bottom paint or not, but that's where to start. If you have, and are left with the epoxy tar coating, I'd sand it off as much as possible and re-barrier coat the bottom. Regardless of how thick the coating is, it will show irregularities. Trust me on that; I had a re-do to show for not having a really smooth bottom on the project in question. The customer service folks at Pettit would be worth a call before commiting more time. Don't let a wire brush anywhere near your bottom. Good luck! Rick D.
Fred my hi spots are in the finish
There are no roller marks and the bottom is very dry it looks like the first coat of bottom paint went on with no primer and no prep sand.(The barrair coat is epoxy smooooth and very hard)It would be a big job to sand it all flush .What grit paper do you think i should use? what kind of tool? Ive never tryed to work smooth with a grinder.I have a 7136 potacable random orbit sander with 6" disks and vac hose.I guess ill try the PC first with some 60 grit then hit it with some 80.Id like to try the wet sand but its 3o now and thats with the heet on. John
There are no roller marks and the bottom is very dry it looks like the first coat of bottom paint went on with no primer and no prep sand.(The barrair coat is epoxy smooooth and very hard)It would be a big job to sand it all flush .What grit paper do you think i should use? what kind of tool? Ive never tryed to work smooth with a grinder.I have a 7136 potacable random orbit sander with 6" disks and vac hose.I guess ill try the PC first with some 60 grit then hit it with some 80.Id like to try the wet sand but its 3o now and thats with the heet on. John
barrier coat
I fair-ed a barrier coat two years ago that sounds just like the one you describe, huge orange peel. I tried using 60 grit paper but found I had better luck using 80 grit paper. Your going to need a lot of sand paper, What I found was it would only do about an 18" square before being trashed by the barrier coat. The barrier coat is tough once cured. A tip, buy the bags for your shop vac, they make life much easier.
I fair-ed a barrier coat two years ago that sounds just like the one you describe, huge orange peel. I tried using 60 grit paper but found I had better luck using 80 grit paper. Your going to need a lot of sand paper, What I found was it would only do about an 18" square before being trashed by the barrier coat. The barrier coat is tough once cured. A tip, buy the bags for your shop vac, they make life much easier.
Baking soda blasting
Last year a bunch of boats in our club hired a company to soda blasted the bottom. They tapped plastic around the boat to blasted the stuff off and carted the junk away. I suppose you can do the same if you have a compressor and sand blasting equipment. It wasn't too expensive and did a really good job. Worth considering. http://www.sodablastboats.com/
Last year a bunch of boats in our club hired a company to soda blasted the bottom. They tapped plastic around the boat to blasted the stuff off and carted the junk away. I suppose you can do the same if you have a compressor and sand blasting equipment. It wasn't too expensive and did a really good job. Worth considering. http://www.sodablastboats.com/
Cradle stands
If you have a six pads cradle you can drop one down at a time. For jack stands you'll need an extra pair to move around with. Don't get 4 pads cradle. It's a pain.
If you have a six pads cradle you can drop one down at a time. For jack stands you'll need an extra pair to move around with. Don't get 4 pads cradle. It's a pain.
Soda blasting
You can buy a kit for about $250 + baking soda to do it yourself. You'll need a good size compressor. http://www.ace-sandblasting.com/soda-blasting-article.html
You can buy a kit for about $250 + baking soda to do it yourself. You'll need a good size compressor. http://www.ace-sandblasting.com/soda-blasting-article.html
Alex - what kind of rate did the soda blast people
give you? I just called the only soda blaster I could find in our area, and he ballparked a price for my 34 foot boat at $1500 - $2000! That seems quite extravagant to me - I was guessing something more in the $400 - $500 range!
give you? I just called the only soda blaster I could find in our area, and he ballparked a price for my 34 foot boat at $1500 - $2000! That seems quite extravagant to me - I was guessing something more in the $400 - $500 range!
If the barrier coat is in good shape and
the lumps and bumps are from bottom paint that is not loose, you can either paint over the lumps and be happy (probably what I'd do), smooth the paint that's there and paint over it, or take it down to the barrier coat with soda blasting, water blasting, paint stripper or VERY CAREFUL sanding. Your choice. Sailing time is fast approaching. Don't start a large, expensive project unless you're fully funded, enthusiastic, and you have a plan, not just a general idea. You will probably never notice the difference in how the boat sails if you make the bottom smooth, unless you race. Sooner or later bottom paint builds up so thick that you want to take it down to the hull and start over. If you really need to do that, I still say slap a coat of paint on her, go sailing this season while you plot and scheme, and get ready to start when you haul out next fall. If you can get a professional to take off the paint, and all you have to do is repaint, that's different. Go for it.
the lumps and bumps are from bottom paint that is not loose, you can either paint over the lumps and be happy (probably what I'd do), smooth the paint that's there and paint over it, or take it down to the barrier coat with soda blasting, water blasting, paint stripper or VERY CAREFUL sanding. Your choice. Sailing time is fast approaching. Don't start a large, expensive project unless you're fully funded, enthusiastic, and you have a plan, not just a general idea. You will probably never notice the difference in how the boat sails if you make the bottom smooth, unless you race. Sooner or later bottom paint builds up so thick that you want to take it down to the hull and start over. If you really need to do that, I still say slap a coat of paint on her, go sailing this season while you plot and scheme, and get ready to start when you haul out next fall. If you can get a professional to take off the paint, and all you have to do is repaint, that's different. Go for it.
Reply to Nautiduck
Seems like it makes better sense to do one coat, then move the stands and do the patches and then the next coat, & move the stands again and continue. I use six stands so I can move one at a time. If you are working with a cradle with a rear yoke and two bow supports; you probably will have to do the multiple coats on the hull, then the same number of coats on the patches, being careful to sand the edges so as not to get build up at the overlap.
Seems like it makes better sense to do one coat, then move the stands and do the patches and then the next coat, & move the stands again and continue. I use six stands so I can move one at a time. If you are working with a cradle with a rear yoke and two bow supports; you probably will have to do the multiple coats on the hull, then the same number of coats on the patches, being careful to sand the edges so as not to get build up at the overlap.
Auto body tech help
I am an Auto body Tech. If I were doing the job I would strip it first than sand with 80 grit to finish the stripping prosses, next I would use 180 grit,this takes the edge off the 80 grit scratches and ferther smooths the serfice. I would prime with a good heavy build primer ,get some reguler shake can spray paint preferibly black and spray a mist over the hole bottom we call this a guide coat it should look like over spray on top the primer, Sand with 320 wet just till the black spots are gone And if you want an ultra smooth bottom, sand again wet with 400-600 grit. Than paint. When you are sanding you must keep the multy obital sander flat on the serfice do not hold it on its edge I know it sands faster but it will not be as smoothe. When you wet sand use a good 3m sanding block not the multy orbital and sand in a cross hatching patern. Your bottom will be smooth as Boat Babes bottom.
I am an Auto body Tech. If I were doing the job I would strip it first than sand with 80 grit to finish the stripping prosses, next I would use 180 grit,this takes the edge off the 80 grit scratches and ferther smooths the serfice. I would prime with a good heavy build primer ,get some reguler shake can spray paint preferibly black and spray a mist over the hole bottom we call this a guide coat it should look like over spray on top the primer, Sand with 320 wet just till the black spots are gone And if you want an ultra smooth bottom, sand again wet with 400-600 grit. Than paint. When you are sanding you must keep the multy obital sander flat on the serfice do not hold it on its edge I know it sands faster but it will not be as smoothe. When you wet sand use a good 3m sanding block not the multy orbital and sand in a cross hatching patern. Your bottom will be smooth as Boat Babes bottom.
Thanks fror the help guys .
Well Its sunday 2/18 500 pm I had a beer party today .I had my guys come over from work and i passed out some tyveck suits, masks , scrapers, sanders chicken ,rice @ beans and 5 cases of bass ale and the paint is gone.I wiped down the hull with 202 solvent and sanded with 80 grit paper all i have left is under the popits on my cradle.There are 4 of them.How do i finish under the popits ,they are about 12"x12" Scraping is no big deal but the barriar coat needs 4 or 5 coats and they say it should be tacky when rolled on.I still have most of the old Barriar coat on the boat but the guys at catalina told me that it should get a new coat after 20 years .I was thinking of proping the aft end of the boat in frount of the rudder with some wood and a jack. The frount is not looking as stable with just a center suport under the bow .What do you think about wood popits coustom made to hold the frount.I dont like the idea of leting the boat hang there on temps . John
Well Its sunday 2/18 500 pm I had a beer party today .I had my guys come over from work and i passed out some tyveck suits, masks , scrapers, sanders chicken ,rice @ beans and 5 cases of bass ale and the paint is gone.I wiped down the hull with 202 solvent and sanded with 80 grit paper all i have left is under the popits on my cradle.There are 4 of them.How do i finish under the popits ,they are about 12"x12" Scraping is no big deal but the barriar coat needs 4 or 5 coats and they say it should be tacky when rolled on.I still have most of the old Barriar coat on the boat but the guys at catalina told me that it should get a new coat after 20 years .I was thinking of proping the aft end of the boat in frount of the rudder with some wood and a jack. The frount is not looking as stable with just a center suport under the bow .What do you think about wood popits coustom made to hold the frount.I dont like the idea of leting the boat hang there on temps . John
Soda blast group price
Scott, I think they pay $1000 each with 6 boats group rate. Truck roll cost money. Alex
Scott, I think they pay $1000 each with 6 boats group rate. Truck roll cost money. Alex
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