I follow this form and am always amazed at the level of knowledge in the responses. This is a great resource for Hunter. I have a '84 37C which I bought in '84 (only owner) so I know the status of my boat from the begining. I have had an intermitent starting problem for 15 years. Once in awhile I press the started (Yanmar 3QM30) and nothing happens. I then take off the air cleaner and jump the starting solenoid and it works fine. Over the years I have replaced the starter button, the ignition key and have rebuilt the starter. I still get the problem and I can not relate it to weather (damp) engine temperature or wireing. The batteries are good and the terminals are clean. When it does not start there is a high draw on the battery (the charging buzzer changes tone indicating a draw) but nothing happens. I am wondering if there is a dead spot in the starter? It appears to be random and it has never become worse. It just "happens". Any ideas? Fair winds. Don
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Airplane engines
DP, Maybe you are right about the dead spot. I once flew a Beech Baron, small light twin engine recip airplane. It would start 99 times out of 100. But once in a while it would do nothing. It too would show a draw, but no starter. The mechanics eventually did find a dead spot on the starter. They replaced it and it was fine, or so I think! Maybe you too have a spot. Can NAPA test for that? I don't know. Good luck. Bryan
DP, Maybe you are right about the dead spot. I once flew a Beech Baron, small light twin engine recip airplane. It would start 99 times out of 100. But once in a while it would do nothing. It too would show a draw, but no starter. The mechanics eventually did find a dead spot on the starter. They replaced it and it was fine, or so I think! Maybe you too have a spot. Can NAPA test for that? I don't know. Good luck. Bryan
Happens Often
D. I have seen that same question posted many times on this forum. The same has happened to me and I've done just what you do upon occasion. I don't think I've ever seen a solution posted. I have changed my starter button to no avail. I usually try pressing different areas of the start button and it works for me. I'm not sure of a "dead spot" on the starter. I just think it's an anomalie on Yanmars. One time I pushed the decompression lever and had my mate press it and it kicked right over. It's more like a dead spot in the engine in the way it comes to a rest after the previous running. BTW, I have a '88 Legend 37 with a 3HM35F.
D. I have seen that same question posted many times on this forum. The same has happened to me and I've done just what you do upon occasion. I don't think I've ever seen a solution posted. I have changed my starter button to no avail. I usually try pressing different areas of the start button and it works for me. I'm not sure of a "dead spot" on the starter. I just think it's an anomalie on Yanmars. One time I pushed the decompression lever and had my mate press it and it kicked right over. It's more like a dead spot in the engine in the way it comes to a rest after the previous running. BTW, I have a '88 Legend 37 with a 3HM35F.
Ground
Yep, me too to all the previous. Two things to solve it: move the ground to any bolt that holds the bottom engine plate on(oil pan). My original ground was to a bolt that entered the water jacket on the back of the engine. second: install a soleniod in the starter solenoid positive wire, increase that wire size also, have the solenoid activated by your push button or key start switch. Both 'fixes' allow all the battery to reach the starter, which is just what you do when you 'jump' the starter solenoid.
Yep, me too to all the previous. Two things to solve it: move the ground to any bolt that holds the bottom engine plate on(oil pan). My original ground was to a bolt that entered the water jacket on the back of the engine. second: install a soleniod in the starter solenoid positive wire, increase that wire size also, have the solenoid activated by your push button or key start switch. Both 'fixes' allow all the battery to reach the starter, which is just what you do when you 'jump' the starter solenoid.
Thanks
Thanks, Paul, Brian and Wally. This problem is annoying but not dangerous. I tend to go with the idea that the engine stops in a "dead" spot such as exactly on top center or something like that. I am not sure that another solenoid would help as there is lots of electrical power. I have thought of installing a car remote starting switch across the starter connections which is what I do with a screwdriver when I jump start it. It would save me taking off the air filter and getting dirty reaching down the side of the engine. Then again maybe I should just be thankful that after twenty years this is all I have to complain about
Fair winds.
Thanks, Paul, Brian and Wally. This problem is annoying but not dangerous. I tend to go with the idea that the engine stops in a "dead" spot such as exactly on top center or something like that. I am not sure that another solenoid would help as there is lots of electrical power. I have thought of installing a car remote starting switch across the starter connections which is what I do with a screwdriver when I jump start it. It would save me taking off the air filter and getting dirty reaching down the side of the engine. Then again maybe I should just be thankful that after twenty years this is all I have to complain about
Fair winds.Check Archives
Check archives. This subject comes up often and there is a lot of good information on it. The extra solenoid is usually the solution. One user even posted a schematic.
Check archives. This subject comes up often and there is a lot of good information on it. The extra solenoid is usually the solution. One user even posted a schematic.
ENGINE WILL NOT START!
CHECK ON THE BACK PORT SIDE OF THE HEAD ON THE ENGINE THERE IS A FUSE BOX THERE SOMETIME THE FITTING GOING TO EITHER END OF THE FUSE BOX WILL WIGGLE LOSE THIS WILL NOT LET YOU START THE ENGINE I HAD THE FUSE BLOW ONCE ON MINE THERE IS A FUSE IN THE LITTLE PLASTIC COVER .
CHECK ON THE BACK PORT SIDE OF THE HEAD ON THE ENGINE THERE IS A FUSE BOX THERE SOMETIME THE FITTING GOING TO EITHER END OF THE FUSE BOX WILL WIGGLE LOSE THIS WILL NOT LET YOU START THE ENGINE I HAD THE FUSE BLOW ONCE ON MINE THERE IS A FUSE IN THE LITTLE PLASTIC COVER .
Asked and answered.
This question has been asked and answered at least fifty times. Some have even threatened to sue Yanmar. It is simply a matter of too many connection points with too light wire between the battery and the solenoid. A second solenoid was the permanent solution after changing every other component and wire including a new 900CCA starter battery. See the attached wiring diagram.
This question has been asked and answered at least fifty times. Some have even threatened to sue Yanmar. It is simply a matter of too many connection points with too light wire between the battery and the solenoid. A second solenoid was the permanent solution after changing every other component and wire including a new 900CCA starter battery. See the attached wiring diagram.
Attachments
Starter Solenoid
I am always amazed at the wealth of knowledge available through this form. Okay, I will add a second solenoid to the system. Using the heavier wire will increase the flow to the original solenoid which should give the original solenoid quite a jolt. Does anyone have the specs for the solenoid or is it just a standard NAPA part? Fair winds.
I am always amazed at the wealth of knowledge available through this form. Okay, I will add a second solenoid to the system. Using the heavier wire will increase the flow to the original solenoid which should give the original solenoid quite a jolt. Does anyone have the specs for the solenoid or is it just a standard NAPA part? Fair winds.
Relay
Yes, you can add another solenoid, but there is an easier way to go. Add a relay. One can be purchased from Radio Shack. All that is being done is to take a weak current and using it to trigger a stronger current direct from the battery. I used the current solenoid battery terminal to get the strong current and then flowed it to the selenoid switch using the relay.
Yes, you can add another solenoid, but there is an easier way to go. Add a relay. One can be purchased from Radio Shack. All that is being done is to take a weak current and using it to trigger a stronger current direct from the battery. I used the current solenoid battery terminal to get the strong current and then flowed it to the selenoid switch using the relay.
Relay??
You have my attention! The starting solution suggested by the second solenoid was fairly straight forward. It used a second solenoid to "fire" the first solenoid. I am not sure why it should be necessary but I can see where it would certainly "fire" the first solenoid. I am not sure what a "relay" is or what it does. You are saying it gives a larger "kick" to the first solenoid so it will take the entire battery voltage to the starter. What are the specs of the relay and where is it connected? I have a Radio Shack near by so it seems like an easy solution. Fair winds.
You have my attention! The starting solution suggested by the second solenoid was fairly straight forward. It used a second solenoid to "fire" the first solenoid. I am not sure why it should be necessary but I can see where it would certainly "fire" the first solenoid. I am not sure what a "relay" is or what it does. You are saying it gives a larger "kick" to the first solenoid so it will take the entire battery voltage to the starter. What are the specs of the relay and where is it connected? I have a Radio Shack near by so it seems like an easy solution. Fair winds.
Marine electrical. . . .
is more expensive. But it is also different from automotive and worth the investment. The "relay" in my wiring diagram is part #289407(pg. 717) in the WM catalog. Cole-Hersee(sp?) makes them and you might find it cheaper through Google. It is actually a solenoid. Sometimes called a relay because of the way it is being used, to make/break another solenoid. If you studied my wiring diagram you see that it is taking the 12v directly from a #4 cable. Then it is using one short piece of #8 wire directly to the starter solenoid. On my boat that eliminated about eight feet of #12 wire and eight connections between the battery and the starter solenoid(picture).
is more expensive. But it is also different from automotive and worth the investment. The "relay" in my wiring diagram is part #289407(pg. 717) in the WM catalog. Cole-Hersee(sp?) makes them and you might find it cheaper through Google. It is actually a solenoid. Sometimes called a relay because of the way it is being used, to make/break another solenoid. If you studied my wiring diagram you see that it is taking the 12v directly from a #4 cable. Then it is using one short piece of #8 wire directly to the starter solenoid. On my boat that eliminated about eight feet of #12 wire and eight connections between the battery and the starter solenoid(picture).
Attachments
Thanks
Thanks Ed. I will get on with it this week. It is always a moment of stress when pushing the start button. It normally works but once many years back it let me down in a critical situation entering the cut for Clear Lake south of Houston. I was in a narrow channel. boats approaching, wind on the beam and the engine did not start. I always start it now before getting into a situation. It is a trust thing and it will be hard to count on it in the future but I will add the solenoid/relay and see what happens. Again, thanks to all who answered my request. Fair winds.
Thanks Ed. I will get on with it this week. It is always a moment of stress when pushing the start button. It normally works but once many years back it let me down in a critical situation entering the cut for Clear Lake south of Houston. I was in a narrow channel. boats approaching, wind on the beam and the engine did not start. I always start it now before getting into a situation. It is a trust thing and it will be hard to count on it in the future but I will add the solenoid/relay and see what happens. Again, thanks to all who answered my request. Fair winds.
Very sympathetic.
Mine was more ornery then most I think. Once after several attempts I put my head close to the starter and had my wife try it. Not even the normal faint click. It was that fuse on the back of the Yanmar(see the picture in my last post). When that goes you have no chance, not even with the "relay". The cheap way out was my trusty rubber-handled pliers. Simply jumped directly between the two solenoid posts. Did that for a season.
Mine was more ornery then most I think. Once after several attempts I put my head close to the starter and had my wife try it. Not even the normal faint click. It was that fuse on the back of the Yanmar(see the picture in my last post). When that goes you have no chance, not even with the "relay". The cheap way out was my trusty rubber-handled pliers. Simply jumped directly between the two solenoid posts. Did that for a season.
Relay question
Not trying to start a relay match here, but to answer D. Prior's question of what a relay is. A DC relay from Radio Shack that I have installed is a small plastic box about 1"x1". It has high side and low side current connectors. To install you disconnect from the solenoid's small middle terminal the wire from the starter switch. This starter switch wire is then connected to the low current side of the relay box. A second low current side wire is sent to ground making a circuit - when the starter button is pushed. Then add a new wire from the solenoid's terminal (the one wired to the battery). Connect this new wire to the high current side of the relay. The other high current side of the relay is then connected to the small middle terminal on the solenoid. When the starter button is pushed the relay triggers the high current to flow to the solenoid, which in turn sends current to the engine's starter. I have used this relay for over two years and it works every time. Regarding the starter wire fuse. Mine also went out. Replace it with a simple inline housed fuse of the same rating. Ed's solution will also work. It is just a matter of what you choose to do.
Not trying to start a relay match here, but to answer D. Prior's question of what a relay is. A DC relay from Radio Shack that I have installed is a small plastic box about 1"x1". It has high side and low side current connectors. To install you disconnect from the solenoid's small middle terminal the wire from the starter switch. This starter switch wire is then connected to the low current side of the relay box. A second low current side wire is sent to ground making a circuit - when the starter button is pushed. Then add a new wire from the solenoid's terminal (the one wired to the battery). Connect this new wire to the high current side of the relay. The other high current side of the relay is then connected to the small middle terminal on the solenoid. When the starter button is pushed the relay triggers the high current to flow to the solenoid, which in turn sends current to the engine's starter. I have used this relay for over two years and it works every time. Regarding the starter wire fuse. Mine also went out. Replace it with a simple inline housed fuse of the same rating. Ed's solution will also work. It is just a matter of what you choose to do.
Thanks
Thanks, Paul. I will see what I can find at the local West Marine and Radio Shack. Both solutions will do the trick. Again, thanks for the suggestion. Fair winds.
Thanks, Paul. I will see what I can find at the local West Marine and Radio Shack. Both solutions will do the trick. Again, thanks for the suggestion. Fair winds.
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