Stanshion Source or Repairs?

[MLampner]

If you have seen my post in the all sailors forum you will no by my own stupidity I broke the weld on one of my stanshions. The question for this posting is repair or replace and how?

I have checked using the search function but I am not clear if there is a source for new stanshions for a 77 Hunter 30. I do have all the pieces and assume a good weld would make a repair possible assuming the base can be straightened out without compromising its strength to much.

So question 1 is does going to a welder used to working with Stainless make sense?

Second question I assume I have to get the lines off of it if I am going to take it to a welder and than means cutting off the fittings at one end or the other, or am I wrong and it could be welded while still on board? Assume this would not be a good idea but thought it worth asking.

Third question in either event assuming by guess about number two is correct that doing this aboard with the lines in place is at best stupid and at worst impossible, can I cut the the lines use cable clamps to make an eye a link of some sort to put them together and get them off that way so a new or repaired stanshion can be installed? I would do this to allow the lines to remain in use the remainder of this season and then plan on replacing them over the winter. I see some signs of rust on them and they are the old coated stock so was seriously planning replacing them in any case at end of season.

Thoughts comments excoriations are welcomed.

 

[rardiH36]

Hi:

These replacement bases certainly look like, and by the description also, the after-market solution. But you should ascertain with Rigrite:

http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Sta...tml#SS Stanchion Bases that Attach to Toerail

Read your going in reverse with wind recount on the AskAll forum. My 1980 Cherubini 36 also has severe prop-walk in reverse. Looking over the side when I first engage reverse, the prop was seems to exit next to the hull about just forward of perpendicular from the prop area! Despite 5 years of using my boat, I know that I will dread finding myself having to deal with the type of situation you were in. The only way I can start a backup is to do a couple of short bursts to get some flow through the water so the rudder can bite. Even with no wind, the boat will be at least 30-40 degrees off straight back-up before this happens. Not good in a emergency or critical situation.

In contrast, on the other side of my slip-way is are 7-8 club charter boats. Mostly Benetau's in the 35-38 ft range. When the relatively inexperienced boaters get into a bit of trouble and do reverse, the prop wash is almost perfectly aligned with the fore-aft direction of the hull. Perfect reverse thrust. No side-ways crabbing whatsoever. The boats just stop. And then go back straight. Maybe these boats have sail drives? Another boat in the club fleet is a 36' Catalina. It has more typical prop walk characteristics. Renters are frequently getting themselves twisted around with this boat.

 

[Steve Dion]

Re: Stanchion Source or Repairs?

1. You should be able to remove the adjuster on one end and it will pull thru the stanchion.

2. I do not know what yours lloks like, but you can send it off to Garhauer and they can usually duplicate it. Most of the time the issue is the base. There were many different configurations over the years.

You may want to check out their website to see if they have your exact base. They will custom drill the holes so you will not need to re-drill them.

 

[MLampner]

Thank you both. Will be following up with both Rigrite and Garhauer this would seem to be the best fix a new base with the exisiting stanchion.

No question about the prop walk. Have tried the burst method and with enough room it works fine. I can get into my own slip 95% of the time single handed without too much trouble no matter where the wind is coming from, but then I have got the luxury of both practice and distance. I don't think the fairway I pulled into at HDG was much more than 1.5 times my length if that much. No room and this much walk is not a good thing. I should have stayed put but was afraid to be out in what later proved to be very bad weather. Several tornados were reported later that day along the storm front that made me decide to get off early. In that sense it all turned out well. By the time it here I was sitting on my porch feeling sorry for myself.

It was a wild ride home but you have got to love these boats they sail to weather better than many a newer boat and they are good in a seaway. The Chesapeake has a real short period between waves and with the wind hitting 25 to 30 for a part of the trip they were beginning to build by the time I got back into the protected water of Middle River some of the waves were running two feet.

Little prop walk can be lived with to sail the way these do.

 

[Redbeard33]

I saved my stantions and have other plans for my lifelines, if they are the same as the 33' (i suspect they are) you can have one.

 

[RAD88]

Shcaefer base

I do not believe you can have the stanchion welded while it is mounted on the boat. I think the gel coat might melt. If you do have it welded off the boat the weld will probably rust since the weld has to be passivated - this is what I was told. I had a similar stanchion welded with limited success = a small amount of rust. The stanchion for the Hunter 30' 1977 model were all Schaefer one piece (base and stanchion ) I believe.
Schaefer does not make a one piece stanchion and base anymore. The new base has a stronger support and better weld connection. But you must then buy a stanchion.
Sailing Services.com has the Schaefer base for $66 and Garhauer has uprights for $30. This is about the cheapest I have found.
If you post a pic of the stanchion and base we can figure out whose make it is.
I do not think Rig Rite sells Shaefer bases.

 

[rardiH36]

...
If you post a pic of the stanchion and base we can figure out whose make it is.

I agree with Rad on this. Pic's are good.

Here's a pic of the bottom of one of my eight stanchions on my 1980 Hunter 36. Looks like a dead ringer for the Rigrite toe rail mount type base (their part number SB36-H1-T90) that will accept any straight piece of 1" SS tube. (Of course I would would take some measurements and call them to verify before ordering.)

Also, as mentioned by another respondent, I am confused about your observation about needing to cut your lifelines off in order to replace a stanchion. I have never seen anything else but lifelines that are swagged into a terminal with diameter small enough to pass through the stanchion life line "holes". Just a matter of unscrewing the terminal ends from the pelican hook fittings. You can see how narrow the swage terminal is in the second attached pic from my boat. (Its the section the hanging water droplets.)

Happy repairs!

 

[MLampner]

Thanks to all will be back over to her next weekend and take plenty of pictures. Rardi as I visualize my end I think you are right the end does screw into the "gate" fitting and may well pass through the openings.

Redbeard if your base looks like the picture in Rad88's posting then it may well be a fit for me. If you are willing to part with one of the stanchions that would be spectacular. One of Islander's regular crew sail/races out of Annapolis most Weds. Please send a pm and we can work something out. Always glad to lend a hand fairly good with electrical circuits so if if I can return the favor always glad too.

 

[J Hunter]

One of my stanchions broke at the base 10 years ago, I took it off and had it welded by a welder who had a tig rig going on a jobsite I was on, it looks and works fine. A couple of tips: like someone else said, you can thread the lifeline out if you take the fittings off of one end, on my '76 30 the ends were different sizes, one end would fit through the holes at the stanchion tops and one wouldn't, so don't give up until you've tried both ends. Also take note of the exact angle the deck plate is relative to the stanchion, mine had just enough angle to make it point straight up, compensating for the deck angling down slightly, check the one abeam of the one that broke and match the angle in reverse. If you don't know any welders I'd haunt the largest plumbing and pipe supply house in your area and ask them for the names of some pipe welders or pipe fitting contractors.

 

[Saillife]

Another place to try for a replacement is white water marine. Never dealt with them but they seem to have a good selection. http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/index.html

 

[Redbeard33]

heres a few pics, looks about right just don't know if the deck angle is the same, I imagine hunter would make it so to get a larger discount for quantity. Your more than welcome to it, as i am planning on wooden bulwark spaced off the deck in lieu of the aluminum toe-rail and will have combination bulwark/stantion brackets welded. I'll be around wednesday afternoon (off generals highway) or i can send it down to the races with my dad (he races on "gratitude" out of AYC). I'll PM you my phone # you can let me know what works for you. I'm planning on rewiring this winter, when the time comes I'd love help designing a system, in particular calculating wire loads and voltage drops (I'm used to A/C house wiring).