Since January is almost over I figure it is time to look at the tasks needing to be accomplished before the spring launch. A couple of years ago I was motoring back to my slip when the bolt securing the spreaders on my 25 came loose. I was out by myself and initially at a loss as to what to do as the mast rocked side to side with the waves. Fearing that I may loose the mast or at least cause damage I didn't wait too long to act. First, I headed directly into the waves. That stopped the boat from rocking so much and slowed the movement of the mast. Second, I grabbed a line from the cabin and secured it on the upper shroud above the wayward spreader. I ran the line across the boat to the starboard rail and secured it to the base of the stantion. With tension on the shroud the mast was stabilized. In retrospect I would run the line around the base of the stantion and back to the winch since I lost some of the tension on the line while tying it off. Once back at the slip I used a step ladder secured to the mast to climb up and refit the spreader. I made sure to use a nylon locknut when doing so. I had thought that the spreader was secured with a locknut but can't be certain as the nut/washer/whatever went overboard when it came loose. My point is, be sure to check your rigging closely for any loose or worn fittings/connections. If I had been under sail when the spreader came loose there may have been some damage done to the boat, I may have lost the mast, or may have been injured or worse. I saw on a link once where a boat (the Wildhair, I think) lost the mast when the forestay turnbuckle backed out. Mine has cotter pins to prevent this. Has anyone ever drilled and pinned the spreader bolt or any other fittings as a precaution? Any reasons why it would be a bad idea? -John
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Tips For Life
John, Thanks for sharing. Your experience and anyone being willing to share our most harrowing moments and telling others what worked to get us out of it, will no doubt save some grief for other people.
John, Thanks for sharing. Your experience and anyone being willing to share our most harrowing moments and telling others what worked to get us out of it, will no doubt save some grief for other people.
Tip
Many of us fly an asymetrical off the wind and have a second haylard for this. If you don't add one anyways. Why, if you had this second haylard you could have just grabbed it and led it to the side to hold the mast. If left secured at the bow and cleated off, even if the forestay broke it would hold the mast up. So this extra halyard can quickley replace a broken shroud or stay in an emergency, what a cheap insurance policy. I broke a shroud when the wind picked up fast. Had the asym up, wind was 5k then bang it went to 35+. The shroud snapped (windward). I let the sheet fly and came about ASAP, like NOW. At least I had another fellow with me and he went forward and dropped the asym, then led the haylard to the chain plate, and snugged it up. It got us back to the anchorage where we replaced the broken shroud. The cable broke about a 1/16" inside of the nicro press next to the thimble. I replaced all the standing rigging after that.
Many of us fly an asymetrical off the wind and have a second haylard for this. If you don't add one anyways. Why, if you had this second haylard you could have just grabbed it and led it to the side to hold the mast. If left secured at the bow and cleated off, even if the forestay broke it would hold the mast up. So this extra halyard can quickley replace a broken shroud or stay in an emergency, what a cheap insurance policy. I broke a shroud when the wind picked up fast. Had the asym up, wind was 5k then bang it went to 35+. The shroud snapped (windward). I let the sheet fly and came about ASAP, like NOW. At least I had another fellow with me and he went forward and dropped the asym, then led the haylard to the chain plate, and snugged it up. It got us back to the anchorage where we replaced the broken shroud. The cable broke about a 1/16" inside of the nicro press next to the thimble. I replaced all the standing rigging after that.
Extra halyard
Amen to Greg's tip. In an earlier post, I mentioned failure of my roller furling attachment resulting in the mast suddenly reverting to a horizontal position. I now keep a jib halyard attached to the pulpit as backup forward restraint for the mast. Having work on airplane systems design for many years, I have a healthy respect for single point failure effects. Jim
Amen to Greg's tip. In an earlier post, I mentioned failure of my roller furling attachment resulting in the mast suddenly reverting to a horizontal position. I now keep a jib halyard attached to the pulpit as backup forward restraint for the mast. Having work on airplane systems design for many years, I have a healthy respect for single point failure effects. Jim
hen to Replace Standing Rigging
so what's the current thinking on standing rigging replacement. I believe mine is original, so on an 88 it would be aroung 19 years old. I check it often and don't have any apparent signs of weakness. I am however replacing it this year.
so what's the current thinking on standing rigging replacement. I believe mine is original, so on an 88 it would be aroung 19 years old. I check it often and don't have any apparent signs of weakness. I am however replacing it this year.
Many articles
There are many articles written each year in the sailing magazines that describe how to inspect your rigging. Usually looking for telltale signs of broken wires, cracked swages etc. Dye testing is recommended for fittings where it's next to impossible to see small hairline cracks. Corrosion is difficult to assess but there are signs if you know what to look for. Kinks are bad too so on a trailer sailor they are likely to happen eventually. Another point is the turnbuckles with locking nuts just aren't worth a damn. Open turnbuckles or adjusting straps on most Macs are easily inspected and positively lockable with rings or wire. If you have a boat with turnbuckle locking via nuts I recommend drilling the nuts and locking with wire and even add some locktite to be sure. Google "sailing rig inspections". Steve
There are many articles written each year in the sailing magazines that describe how to inspect your rigging. Usually looking for telltale signs of broken wires, cracked swages etc. Dye testing is recommended for fittings where it's next to impossible to see small hairline cracks. Corrosion is difficult to assess but there are signs if you know what to look for. Kinks are bad too so on a trailer sailor they are likely to happen eventually. Another point is the turnbuckles with locking nuts just aren't worth a damn. Open turnbuckles or adjusting straps on most Macs are easily inspected and positively lockable with rings or wire. If you have a boat with turnbuckle locking via nuts I recommend drilling the nuts and locking with wire and even add some locktite to be sure. Google "sailing rig inspections". Steve
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