I am in Mexico considering ordering standing rigging in the US, bringing it down, and having the work done in La Paz. I'd be interested to learn of anyone's experience of replacing standing rigging on this boat (standard rig not in-mast furling). A couple of specific questions. The manual lists the wire dimensions and parts need in great detail. Are those dimension accurate? My instinct is to order slightly over length with terminals at one end and have the riggers measure and do the other end. Also, the manual lists three different wire sizes (6, 7 and 9mm, if I recall correctly). Any downside to doing it all in 9mm, other than increased weight aloft and cost. Any advice greatly appreciated.
Standing Rigging for 2005 Hunter 41 AC
- Thread starter SteveT555
- Start date
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,829
No experience with rigging your boat.
Now that I have said that several questions come to mind.
- Why buy the rigging in the US and transport it to Mexico?
- Won't there be tariffs or import fees to pay?
- Is there a concern about the quality of Stainless steel wire rope used in the marina's of Mexico?
There are 2 basic types of terminals used on all standing rigging of sailboats.
- Swaged or Compression fittings.
I chose a combination strategy. I had the upper ends of the rigging machine swaged and I put compression fittings on the lower ends. The lengths were measured when the mast was down on saw horses. the rigging was order a foot long. The theory is that water runs down hill. Water on the upper swaged fitting will continually move off the fitting and down the wire. This leaves the steel of the wire and the fitting with adequate oxygen, avoiding conditions for the steel to develop corrosion. On the lower ends a swage fitting is open with a slight cup to hold water in the fitting. This promotes a possibility of oxygen deprivation to the fitting and the steel rope. SS rope corrodes from the inside in such a condition.
Compression fittings are easily inspected for corrosion at the deck level. If a problem develops one can remove the fitting, remove the damaged section of the wire and then reinstall the lower compression fitting.
It is a strategy I use on my boat. I selected the Hyan Hi-Mod Compression Terminals.
Your question about wire diameter. The goal is to minimize weight aloft. The engineers of your boat selected the wire diameters for their breaking strength and weight minimization. Along with the reduced weight comes lower cost. Using 9mm in lieu of 6mm will add weight to the top of your mast. 6mm is about 0.10 lb per foot. 9mm is about .24 lb per foot. Note that the smaller diameter wire is placed at the furthest distance from the CG of your boat. It would be like adding a 5-10 lb weight to the top of your mast then healing the boat over in a stiff wind.
A third consideration for rigging now is the use of pre-stretched dyneema. Strength and weight are the biggies about the use of dyneema. 9mm dyneema weighs 0.034lb per foot. Dyneema SK78 in 8 to 9mm (3/8") size is a good selection for an off shore medium to large cruising boat. This means your sailing in strong winds will keep the boat on her feet more often than with wire or rod rigging.
All of these considerations go into a rebuild of your standing rigging.
