Standing Rig Tuning for Optimal Race Performance

[H33CRich]

In tuning my former boat (Tanzer 26) I used a general guide of setting the fore/backstay at 15% of breaking strength. Shrouds were set at 10-12% of breaking strenth.

In my latest tune I set all of the rigging to about 14% (loos 37). What have others done to achieve maximum performance? I have a race coming up and want to let the H33C shine.

http://loosnaples.com/how-to-use-pt-series-tension-gauges

 

[TLW]

I don't know the rigging components of the Tanzer 26 (wire diameter, lower shroud configuration, etc) so will only comment on forestay tension. I raced this size (25') boat for 12 years, but it was lighter than the Tanzer and accelerated more quickly. Once the rake of the mast was set correctly, I liked to grab the forestay just above my head and be able to deflect it about 3" each side of center. This was a good setting for pointing in light air and reaching in any condition. For pointing in heavier air, the backstay adjuster would harden up the forestay till it remained on the centerline.

People who grew up sailing some dinghies, will, incorrectly, harden up the jib halyard in an effort to point better. This works on dinghies where the halyard is ALSO the forestay. In larger boats, and particularly with good laminate sails, this may bring the draft of the jib too far forward for maximum pointing ability. Certainly, the luff needs to be brought to the boat centerline, but with the forestay rather than the halyard. Halyard tension can then be used to correctly place the headsail draft position. So - backstay adjuster becomes an important component.

 

[Blaise]

Remember that plastic laminate sails do not stretch. When they are up they are up. The draft is largely what was built into them. If you think that you are gooing to move the draft around on a plastic sail like you do a dacron sail, all you are going to do is destroy it. If you are "tuning" to percentage of breaking strength, you must have very loose shrouds and lowers to leeward. I must confess that I have never sailed a 33 but it was concieved as a race boat unlike my 37. When going uphill, we carry thousands of pounds of pressure on the back stay. The mast doesn't move, but there is no headstay sag. (yes, I have a backstay adjuster) On big heavy masthead boats it is important to have the rig set up the same on both tacks. Start by making sure the mast is centered in the boat. Take a halyard and measure from one toerail to the other. Most boats do not have the mast centered.

 

[TLW]

Certainly you are not going to move it around "like on a dacron sail," I have seen old school sailors (pre laminates) tear the head completely out of a kevlar sail winching the halyard more and more thinking they were improving pointing ability. The point was to get the luff on the centerline by getting the forestay on the centerline, that is: eliminating sag, not by increased halyard tension. A laminate sail (not the subject of the original post) might even be somewhat slack on the luff and retain its designed draft position. THAT BEING SAID: it is absolutely possible to move the draft (position of deepest chord depth) somewhat is a laminate sail. Otherwise, no need to pay for those draft stripes.

Perhaps the greatest reason for developing alternative materials for sails was to eliminate stretch which caused draft to move too far aft as the sail stretched. Dacron thread orientation, resin impregnated Dacron, mylar scrims, mylar/Dacron laminate, mylar sheets with Kevlar scrims, mylar with Kevlar load tapes, Kevlar "cloth," the introduction of carbon fiber, etc. ad nauseum were all steps along the way to eliminate stretch. Nothing 100% successful. Maybe solid wings - we'll see.

 

[H33CRich]

I guess there are not many H33C owners who use the loos gauge for tuning and race. I have friends who say they tune theirs by pushing on the shrouds or stays. I can do that too. I was just looking for some numbers from other loos gauge owners.

 

[Blaise]

TLW is right when he says that is is possible to move the draft in plastic sails. Jib sheet angles, and easing halyards are both available. The main atvantage to plastis sails is that the draft never moves in gusts, you just get more power. I have seen the draft in big dacron jibs more more that two feet forward and aft in gusty conditions.