Dear all: Can any one tell me what is the forestay(Furling), Aft upper shroud, Aft Lower shroud cable tension, thanks for any advice.......Jameslim
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dj dj
Loos Tension Gauge
On my 340 I picked up a Loos tension Gauge and used the guidelines that they provided for the various elements of the standing rigging. It improved the performance of my boat . . .and several others at the docks. Well worth the money if you share it with others. See West Marine and search for tension gauge, or specifically for Loos Gauge
On my 340 I picked up a Loos tension Gauge and used the guidelines that they provided for the various elements of the standing rigging. It improved the performance of my boat . . .and several others at the docks. Well worth the money if you share it with others. See West Marine and search for tension gauge, or specifically for Loos Gauge
J
James Lim
where to start?
Hi dj dj: thanks for the advice, I got the loo guage too, the problems is that how i should start to do it, from the forestay, right or left, upper or lower shroud, and what should i look up for? pls advice.........thanks you. cheer.........jameslim
Hi dj dj: thanks for the advice, I got the loo guage too, the problems is that how i should start to do it, from the forestay, right or left, upper or lower shroud, and what should i look up for? pls advice.........thanks you. cheer.........jameslim
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d j
Well . . . .
Assuming that your rig is standing and has a degree of tension, I would start with the shrouds first, uppers and then lowers working one side of the uppers, balance with the other side, then the lowers. Perhaps saying the obvious is to insure that your mast is a straight line and not bent or bowed to one side or the other. Some masts will be bowed to the back like the H340. But latteral bowing/bending is not acceptable. Such bends/bows not only affects performance, but makes it affects the strength of the mast and contributes to resistence when raising the sail. I'm not sure what your rigging looks like on the 280. I assume that you have a backstay since this was produced in the 1980s. Whether you tighten the forestay or the backstay first depends on if you want your mast vertical or raked back slightly. If you have additional lower shrouds that angle forward and backward from the main shroud, as Catalinas and Beneteaus do, you'll need to adjust those after you have the forestay and backstay adjusted to your liking. I rarely get mine mast tuned in one setting. A few good sails tends to make a second adjustment necessary to get the mast to where I would like it. And being a little fanatical, I try to tune it at least once a year. If you have no backstay, as is my situation on the 340 (shrouds 120 degrees from forestay), the adjustments take on a little different sequence. But I don't think that is your situation. BTW, if you do not have the Loos pamphlet, you could give me your wire cable sizes and I can give you the % breakage for each Loos reading. Or worse come to worse, I could email you a copy. A well tuned mast really helps performance as well as reducing wear and tear on the boat, and may help reduce weird vibrations in higher winds. Please feel free to ask more questions. Good luck.
Assuming that your rig is standing and has a degree of tension, I would start with the shrouds first, uppers and then lowers working one side of the uppers, balance with the other side, then the lowers. Perhaps saying the obvious is to insure that your mast is a straight line and not bent or bowed to one side or the other. Some masts will be bowed to the back like the H340. But latteral bowing/bending is not acceptable. Such bends/bows not only affects performance, but makes it affects the strength of the mast and contributes to resistence when raising the sail. I'm not sure what your rigging looks like on the 280. I assume that you have a backstay since this was produced in the 1980s. Whether you tighten the forestay or the backstay first depends on if you want your mast vertical or raked back slightly. If you have additional lower shrouds that angle forward and backward from the main shroud, as Catalinas and Beneteaus do, you'll need to adjust those after you have the forestay and backstay adjusted to your liking. I rarely get mine mast tuned in one setting. A few good sails tends to make a second adjustment necessary to get the mast to where I would like it. And being a little fanatical, I try to tune it at least once a year. If you have no backstay, as is my situation on the 340 (shrouds 120 degrees from forestay), the adjustments take on a little different sequence. But I don't think that is your situation. BTW, if you do not have the Loos pamphlet, you could give me your wire cable sizes and I can give you the % breakage for each Loos reading. Or worse come to worse, I could email you a copy. A well tuned mast really helps performance as well as reducing wear and tear on the boat, and may help reduce weird vibrations in higher winds. Please feel free to ask more questions. Good luck.
R
Rick Johnson
dumb question
I was wondering about the forestay tension on my H31, as the turnbuckles on the split backstay are now fully 'closed,' with no more turns available to increase tension. But I've got a Harken roller furling over the forestay, and I'm not sure how to adjust the tension. Help?
I was wondering about the forestay tension on my H31, as the turnbuckles on the split backstay are now fully 'closed,' with no more turns available to increase tension. But I've got a Harken roller furling over the forestay, and I'm not sure how to adjust the tension. Help?
D
d j
Harken . . .
The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked. <grin> On many roller furling, it is possible to tighten a the forestay at the base of it under the roller mechanism . I don't have a Harken so I can't respond to that specifically. However I would be surprised if Harken (considering their reputation) did not have a way to tighten the forestay. Does your Harken manual provide any clues on how to tighten it? If you don't have a manual, you can email Harken at: csd@harken.com and get one. I also checked Harken's web site and clicked on the parts page. It appears that there is a nut just below the drum that would turn to tighten. However you really should look at your manual rather than take my advice. You may want to wander over and look at the web site, too. See the "related link" below. If you don't have any luck with the manual, and haven't gotten any other more helpful responses, post a note again, and we'll see if we can get some help for you from some of my friends.
The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked. <grin> On many roller furling, it is possible to tighten a the forestay at the base of it under the roller mechanism . I don't have a Harken so I can't respond to that specifically. However I would be surprised if Harken (considering their reputation) did not have a way to tighten the forestay. Does your Harken manual provide any clues on how to tighten it? If you don't have a manual, you can email Harken at: csd@harken.com and get one. I also checked Harken's web site and clicked on the parts page. It appears that there is a nut just below the drum that would turn to tighten. However you really should look at your manual rather than take my advice. You may want to wander over and look at the web site, too. See the "related link" below. If you don't have any luck with the manual, and haven't gotten any other more helpful responses, post a note again, and we'll see if we can get some help for you from some of my friends.
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