We just took down the stanchions on our 1986 28.5 Hunter and found that four of the six stanchions had been damaged. They are the same stanchions originally designed for the boat (the stanchion is held by four bolts - one in the base of the stanchion, two in the attached plate to the toe rail and one in the support.) Several of the stanchions supports were bent, two supports were completely separated from the stanchion, and two of the toe rail plates had separated. Needless to say, we were quite surprised and glad that we took the time to examine the stanchions. The question is, what type of new stachion is the best fit (and is stronger)? Does it make any sense to try and repair the stanchions? I am especially perplexed because most of the newer stanchions are supported by brackets that need to be bolted from underneath the deck - the Hunter 28.5 ceiling/wall is a single piece and it doesn't appear that we could attach bolts from below. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Brad
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
G
Guy Shields
Stantion Replacement
I have the same problem on a 1987. Called Hunter and was told to contact Southcoast Marine Products; 727/573/4821. They are the ones who made the original stantions. They will need a drawing of the base of the stantion and can replace the original ones with the same mounting holes.
I have the same problem on a 1987. Called Hunter and was told to contact Southcoast Marine Products; 727/573/4821. They are the ones who made the original stantions. They will need a drawing of the base of the stantion and can replace the original ones with the same mounting holes.
B
Bill
Poor design
The prpoblem with the 28.5 stanchions is the brace which is bvolted into a backing plate imbeded into the deck. This leads to three problems: 1. The brace is subject to breakage because of the tremendous leverage effect created when the stancion is pulled, especially from the top half. 2. The threads on the backing plate strip out. 3. When replacing with another type of stanchion the deck plywood coring stops around 2-21/2 inches from edge of the deck. Possible fixes: 1. Take the stachion off and have the brace welded back into place along with the plate on te toe rail. 2. Stripped thread is a two option dilema:
The prpoblem with the 28.5 stanchions is the brace which is bvolted into a backing plate imbeded into the deck. This leads to three problems: 1. The brace is subject to breakage because of the tremendous leverage effect created when the stancion is pulled, especially from the top half. 2. The threads on the backing plate strip out. 3. When replacing with another type of stanchion the deck plywood coring stops around 2-21/2 inches from edge of the deck. Possible fixes: 1. Take the stachion off and have the brace welded back into place along with the plate on te toe rail. 2. Stripped thread is a two option dilema:
B
Bill
Whoops
Sorry, hit the wrong key and sent response before editing and finishing. Threaded solutions: a. Use the next size bolt and cut new threads or fill with material and cut new threads. b. Drill the hole all the way through the liner and put on proper backing plate. Replacement: If I was going to replace all of the stanchions, I would not duplicate the current design. I would look into buying stock stanchions and thru bolt all the way through the liner, ensuring that I was far enough away from the toe rail to be going through the core.. I would also try and fill the void between the liner with with stainless plate or small fiberglass panel. Usually you find old pieces of fiberglass around the boat yard. If possible I would also try and brace the stanchion by tying it into the toe rail in some fashion. The big word of caution is that one should not pull a boat into a dock, or where ever, by pulling on the stanchion. There is way too much leverage which reults in crazing or worse. As an aside, this is one of those areas which differentiates a great boat from a good boat. Good luck with your project.
Sorry, hit the wrong key and sent response before editing and finishing. Threaded solutions: a. Use the next size bolt and cut new threads or fill with material and cut new threads. b. Drill the hole all the way through the liner and put on proper backing plate. Replacement: If I was going to replace all of the stanchions, I would not duplicate the current design. I would look into buying stock stanchions and thru bolt all the way through the liner, ensuring that I was far enough away from the toe rail to be going through the core.. I would also try and fill the void between the liner with with stainless plate or small fiberglass panel. Usually you find old pieces of fiberglass around the boat yard. If possible I would also try and brace the stanchion by tying it into the toe rail in some fashion. The big word of caution is that one should not pull a boat into a dock, or where ever, by pulling on the stanchion. There is way too much leverage which reults in crazing or worse. As an aside, this is one of those areas which differentiates a great boat from a good boat. Good luck with your project.
D
Dave McIlveen
Stanchion Repair
Brad: I had the same problem last year. I took two damaged stanchions along with a good one (as a pattern) to a Welding shop. They were able to repair with a heavier SS angle support. Worked like a charm and cost about $75 for two as I recall. Hope this is of some help. Dave '86 28.5 OSPREY
Brad: I had the same problem last year. I took two damaged stanchions along with a good one (as a pattern) to a Welding shop. They were able to repair with a heavier SS angle support. Worked like a charm and cost about $75 for two as I recall. Hope this is of some help. Dave '86 28.5 OSPREY
S
schaefer
been there done that
brad...as in a previous respone...south coast marine in fl.....about 65 dollars each....i drilled carefully down the middle of the bolt that is threaded into a glassed in nut in the deck...i drilled right through the cabin liner..this way i was able to use a hole maker to get a nice clean hole big enough for the washers i used and in just the right spot...installed the stanchion with a bolt just long enough to expose a half inch below the deck but above the liner..your holes in the liner will be far enough port or starbord to not even be noticed...remember to goop up the head of the bolt to prevent water seeping into the deck....took about 20 mins per stanchion with two men..good luck...schaefer 86 28.5...
brad...as in a previous respone...south coast marine in fl.....about 65 dollars each....i drilled carefully down the middle of the bolt that is threaded into a glassed in nut in the deck...i drilled right through the cabin liner..this way i was able to use a hole maker to get a nice clean hole big enough for the washers i used and in just the right spot...installed the stanchion with a bolt just long enough to expose a half inch below the deck but above the liner..your holes in the liner will be far enough port or starbord to not even be noticed...remember to goop up the head of the bolt to prevent water seeping into the deck....took about 20 mins per stanchion with two men..good luck...schaefer 86 28.5...
D
Douglas Gould
I replaced two of my stanchions, that are just forward of the cockpit, with the same gate style being used on the new Hunters. I wanted to get life line gates at the cockpit to hookup easily. These new stanchions are Left and Right oriented with a bolt through the toe rail to the base of the post, a second bolt through the toe rail for into the base of the angled support, and two through bolts for the small deck supports. The original hole through the deck was drilled out and glassed back in. Below deck we used a Dremel tool to cut out an opening through the fiberglass liner to provide access. Two new holes were drilled through the deck and a backing plate installed. The biggest problem I encountered was getting access to the original nuts that were between the liner and the deck. After resigning myself to cutting through the liner, the rest was straight forward. Still on my list is to cut some small teak plates to cover my access holes to the nuts and backing plate. In my case, I replaced all of the life lines when I installed the new gates.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.