Stanchion-base fix.
If it has really ripped through the flange and deck (inconceivable and inexcusable as that is) there is only one way to deal with this. Make your own backing plate out of fibreglass. Go underneath and find out how big of a flat plate you can have that will accommodate all the stanchion's holes and extend 3-4 inches all around (or as far as possible). It's got to be significantly bigger than the stainless-steel backing plate. Lay this up using woven roving or Fabmat on a flat piece of plywood with shiny Formica on it, well waxed with mould-release agent. Make it bigger than it has to be and trim it to fit when it's cured. Go inside again and dewax and scuff up the underside of the flange (low-speed grinder with 36-60 grit or mild wire wheel OK). Wet out the new part, the underside of the flange, and one piece of plain mat for between them. Prop the plate into position (so it doesn't fall; so it doesn't allow voids between the two surfaces). Wait for a full cure. Drill down through the old holes and through the new part. Use longer SS bolts than before and reinstall the stanchion with the proper SS backing plate. (If there isn't one, then that was your problem.) Bed the base down to the deck with 5200. Use aircraft locknuts and torque till there is little wiggle (it's not the 5200's job to give it strength so cure time will NOT improve rigidity). The stanchion when wiggled from the top should flex the deck a VERY little. Let the 5200 ooze about 1/4-inch all round. Wipe it with a rag damp (not 'wet') with gasoline about 1-2 hours later. This one stanchion will now probably be the strongest one on the boat!!! BTW-- this 'fix' is typical for any pulled-through-deck hassle. Remember using the same material as the deck (fibreglass) is key to adding strength. Simply using a SS backing plate, even an oversized one, will not provide the same rigidity and strength per ounce of weight than this. Also, you can do it yourself and later gloat that your handiwork is better than the factory's was! JC
