Stainless or aloominum rivets?
- Thread starter greg_m
- Start date
For many applications aluminum rivets will not be strong enough and stainless are required; for example, tangs for shrouds.
When mating aluminum and stainless steel it's important to electrically insulated them. For large surfaces thin vinyl tape is good. For rivets, screws, and small parts, TEF Gel is best. Blue Loc-tite can be used as well.
For high-strength, critical applications I prefer Cherry Max stainless rivets. This is for things that will never come apart. For things that may have to be removed you can tap the mast and use a stainless machine screw. Higher strength applications may require a nut on the other side.
When mating aluminum and stainless steel it's important to electrically insulated them. For large surfaces thin vinyl tape is good. For rivets, screws, and small parts, TEF Gel is best. Blue Loc-tite can be used as well.
For high-strength, critical applications I prefer Cherry Max stainless rivets. This is for things that will never come apart. For things that may have to be removed you can tap the mast and use a stainless machine screw. Higher strength applications may require a nut on the other side.
We don't have yawl rigged Catalina 22's here in Louisiana, but yall people are aboard them .. 
I agree with Jviss ..
sometimes, if the spar section is too thin, using a thick walled insert sometimes gives enough additional purchase to make a very strong joint. They should be insulated too.
www.mcmaster.com
I agree with Jviss ..
sometimes, if the spar section is too thin, using a thick walled insert sometimes gives enough additional purchase to make a very strong joint. They should be insulated too.
McMaster-Carr
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Yes, indeed, I had forgotten. You can get flush stainless steel rivet nuts, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/30PCs-Stainless-Insert-Nutsert-4-20UNC/dp/B077GQLQZ8
I haven't used them, but I imagine I would drill the hole in the aluminum to make a tight, interference fit with the knurl, coat the body with TEF Gel, pound it in with a hard plastic mallet, and tighten a bolt against it to pull the rivet in.
Wow, I have seen similar fixings for house hold fittings through a ceiling board but all plastic or galvanised... this is new to me!Yes, indeed, I had forgotten. You can get flush stainless steel rivet nuts, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/30PCs-Stainless-Insert-Nutsert-4-20UNC/dp/B077GQLQZ8
I haven't used them, but I imagine I would drill the hole in the aluminum to make a tight, interference fit with the knurl, coat the body with TEF Gel, pound it in with a hard plastic mallet, and tighten a bolt against it to pull the rivet in.
Yawl learn noow thangs evryday!
I have used the threaded inserts for use in wood, but never these for metal. Looks promising, except that they recommend a special tool to install which is a bit of a turnoff if only installing a few of them. I found this diy method on youtube.