I use my autopilot more than not and find the ST4000 very reliable. I did recently discover a minor weakness which is the plastic lever and tiny extruded pin that allows you to engage and disengage clutch on the wheel pilot. The pin sheared when I was going to disengage the pilot last week. As a result the lever rotated but would not disengage the clutch. Is there an upgrade available? I noticed that you have a MKII Upgrade for the ST4000 and I was wondering if I should maybe consider that since I have removed wheel pilot anyway. How much and where can get the upgraded wheel pilot? How do I obtain parts should I decide to fix what I have? Dealer? Thanks in advance for your help! w
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same problem
I had the same problem with my 3 month old ST4000 - the shaft has a flat side but the lever did not seem to have it so all the load was on the pin - it is possible that the hole in the lever distorted after the pin sheared but it did not look like it - is it possible that some levers are defective? I ordered a replacement - it was the same as the original but the hole did have a shape matching the shaft.
I had the same problem with my 3 month old ST4000 - the shaft has a flat side but the lever did not seem to have it so all the load was on the pin - it is possible that the hole in the lever distorted after the pin sheared but it did not look like it - is it possible that some levers are defective? I ordered a replacement - it was the same as the original but the hole did have a shape matching the shaft.
not the only pin!
If you had this problem - you probably already have the rest of teh problem.... it's not the only pin! when you disassemble teh unit you will see on the inside that the shaft has a cam on the inside end that engages the belt as an idler. While this looks like one piece, it is not!. The cam is held to he shaft by two even smaller pins than the one that holds the actuating lever on the shaft. You can get these pins from raytheon (but not in any hardware store that I can find!) by phoning them. My experience is that they are not in stock and that they will usually tell you that you have to by a kit which includes all the (expensive) parts you do not need. if you keep talking, sometimes the raytheon person will agree to sell you the pins only - once he sent them for free. Get several for a backup. this has happened three times to me in 6 seasons and is the most common reported problem with these units in internet posts. Bill Murray S/V Good Faith H29.5 #175
If you had this problem - you probably already have the rest of teh problem.... it's not the only pin! when you disassemble teh unit you will see on the inside that the shaft has a cam on the inside end that engages the belt as an idler. While this looks like one piece, it is not!. The cam is held to he shaft by two even smaller pins than the one that holds the actuating lever on the shaft. You can get these pins from raytheon (but not in any hardware store that I can find!) by phoning them. My experience is that they are not in stock and that they will usually tell you that you have to by a kit which includes all the (expensive) parts you do not need. if you keep talking, sometimes the raytheon person will agree to sell you the pins only - once he sent them for free. Get several for a backup. this has happened three times to me in 6 seasons and is the most common reported problem with these units in internet posts. Bill Murray S/V Good Faith H29.5 #175
Design or Manufacturing Flaw???
Our first Autohelm, a 4000, was acquired 13 years ago and it worked perfectly fine until last year when the shear pin went out due to my fault. The replacement shear pin (had to buy an EXPENSIVE $$ KIT in order to get the inexpensive shear pin) only lasted until June when it too failed (no fault of my own). At this point, to avoid another failure and being stranded, I bought a ST4000 for our three month trip to Alaska. The nice features about the ST4000 is the remote mounted fluxgate compass and the ability to program it to fit the boat. It's really disturbing to hear that there is a common problem with my new Autohelm. Am I going to have to buy a spare kit in order to do a field repair when I'm off in some remote area? If the wheel won't disengage how does one steer the boat? If you reef on the wheel it will bend or break the driveshaft (the one with all the little planetary gears) in the autopilot - correct? Can't help but wonder if the "upgrade kit" is intended to correct this design or manufacturing flaw. There's an old saying: If it ain't broke don't fix it!!
Our first Autohelm, a 4000, was acquired 13 years ago and it worked perfectly fine until last year when the shear pin went out due to my fault. The replacement shear pin (had to buy an EXPENSIVE $$ KIT in order to get the inexpensive shear pin) only lasted until June when it too failed (no fault of my own). At this point, to avoid another failure and being stranded, I bought a ST4000 for our three month trip to Alaska. The nice features about the ST4000 is the remote mounted fluxgate compass and the ability to program it to fit the boat. It's really disturbing to hear that there is a common problem with my new Autohelm. Am I going to have to buy a spare kit in order to do a field repair when I'm off in some remote area? If the wheel won't disengage how does one steer the boat? If you reef on the wheel it will bend or break the driveshaft (the one with all the little planetary gears) in the autopilot - correct? Can't help but wonder if the "upgrade kit" is intended to correct this design or manufacturing flaw. There's an old saying: If it ain't broke don't fix it!!
Steering with drive engaged...
is not as bad as you think, just make sure the pilot is on standby. Try it next time you are out, it is pretty weird. Kinda like having a lot of weather helm in both directions or steering with your wheel brake half tight. w
is not as bad as you think, just make sure the pilot is on standby. Try it next time you are out, it is pretty weird. Kinda like having a lot of weather helm in both directions or steering with your wheel brake half tight. w
Steering while engaged - Jury rigging the pins
As stated - it can be done! I did it. I have gotten pretty good at removing the belt housing from the wheel (only six hex head machine bolts) but teh last time it failed I was alone and in a narrow crowded channel. Steered for 45 minutes until I got somewhere to pull over and fix it. It can be done. It is like driving a car with a failed power steering unit. BTW - if you do not have spare pins aboard when it fails, you can jury rig new pins out of stainless split rings (used as cotter keys in your rigging. The ones I use on my turnbuckles are almost exactly the right diameter. just cut them to size. you may need to file smooth the ends if using them on the idler cam so the idler bearing with spin freely. Replace these soon - the stainless is a much softer and more malleable alloy than the spring steel the pins are made of. (although one set lasted me almost a complete sailing season) Good luck Bill Murray S/V Good Faith H29.5 #175
As stated - it can be done! I did it. I have gotten pretty good at removing the belt housing from the wheel (only six hex head machine bolts) but teh last time it failed I was alone and in a narrow crowded channel. Steered for 45 minutes until I got somewhere to pull over and fix it. It can be done. It is like driving a car with a failed power steering unit. BTW - if you do not have spare pins aboard when it fails, you can jury rig new pins out of stainless split rings (used as cotter keys in your rigging. The ones I use on my turnbuckles are almost exactly the right diameter. just cut them to size. you may need to file smooth the ends if using them on the idler cam so the idler bearing with spin freely. Replace these soon - the stainless is a much softer and more malleable alloy than the spring steel the pins are made of. (although one set lasted me almost a complete sailing season) Good luck Bill Murray S/V Good Faith H29.5 #175
MK2 Wheel Drive
A version of the 4000 wheel pilot has been manufactured for the last 16 years. The drive unit was essentially the same during that period with some slight modifications. Take a look on the raymarine website at the new MK2 drive. This link will also give you information for ordering newer electronics for the Mk1 drive and how to keep the same electronics and upgrade to the Mk2 drive. http://www.raymarine.com/recreational/products/index/autopilots/wheel/autopilot_st4000_wheel.html -cut and past this link into your browser. Try calling Raymarine technical support if you need service or parts on your MK1 drive unit. Complete parts are still available, although some are only stocked in small kits.
A version of the 4000 wheel pilot has been manufactured for the last 16 years. The drive unit was essentially the same during that period with some slight modifications. Take a look on the raymarine website at the new MK2 drive. This link will also give you information for ordering newer electronics for the Mk1 drive and how to keep the same electronics and upgrade to the Mk2 drive. http://www.raymarine.com/recreational/products/index/autopilots/wheel/autopilot_st4000_wheel.html -cut and past this link into your browser. Try calling Raymarine technical support if you need service or parts on your MK1 drive unit. Complete parts are still available, although some are only stocked in small kits.
Ordering Info...
Called for part - Lever w/pin they say is #N011 $5.37 $5 shipping. Phone is (603) 881 5200.
Called for part - Lever w/pin they say is #N011 $5.37 $5 shipping. Phone is (603) 881 5200.
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