ST-40 Depth Transducer Nut Cracked

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Jun 13, 2004
60
Hunter 306 Bluewater Bay Marina (Niceville, FL)
Just did my "delivery ferry cruise" from Deltaville to Mount Vernon - about 120 miles - 2 days and am still trying to sort out little things. Trip from Chesapeake and then up the Potomac was uneventful in beautiful Spring weather - lots of motoring and some motor-sailing (when winds cooperated). Been fixing minor things, when while cleaning up in the bilge, I noted that the retaining nut cap on my Raymarine ST-40 Depth Transducer was cracked. It (apparently) has been holding, but I immediately pulled it and replaced it in the thru-hull with the blank plug/bung (which has a perfectly fine nut cap). Of course, there is a line from the depth transducer that snakes from the bilge area (along with the line for the ST-40 Speed/log transducer) in an aftward direction ending up on the pedestal at the rear of the indicator. I assume I have to access the connection plug end of the transducer line (30 ft/9m) at the rear of the indicator to slip on a new nut. I assume I can temporarily use the nut from the blank thru-hull plug until I can get a new one (from Raymarine?). Has anyone had to make such a repair? Any tips or suggestions before I start? Of course, from what I can see in the bilge area, the two lines from the depth instrument and the speed instrument are cable clamped and appear to be routed together in a common flexible black plastic channel...so that suggests that I may need to remove both lines from the rear of the indicators in the pedestal, and use a line to snake the transducer cables first out, then replace the cracked cap, then re-snake the cables back into their original routing. To anyone who's done this or is intimately familiar with the 306 instrumentation wiring or can lend suggestions, thanks for the favor of a reply.
 
Jun 21, 2004
88
Hunter H31 Niagara Falls
Can't it be cut and re-connected

Why not just cut the transducer cable leaving a pigtail on the transducer itself and reconnect with a suitable (soldered, not crimped) electrical connection? I cant believe that a single termination would affect the transducer operation significantly. I remember the ST40 install instructions recommending not to lengthen the line (thereby adding resistance), but a soldered termination is something else entirely. it should have little, if any effect.
 
Jun 13, 2004
60
Hunter 306 Bluewater Bay Marina (Niceville, FL)
Cannot cut the depth transducer cable...

...according to the Raymarine lead engineer. You can, apparently, cut and splice the speed cable. I suspected as much since the installation instructions in my inherited owner's manual for the Raymarine ST40 Depth Instrument have specific issues with where and how to run the depth transducer cable and how to connect it, stating if it is spliced it will seriously degrade performance. I thought I might find someone with a 306 or 290 (and similar instruments) who has had to change the cap nut on their transducer and could inform me of any possible problems. I guess I just need to get to my dealer and have them order a replacement nut...then just dig in and start pulling the cable from the pedestal back through (wherever it runs) to the bilge where the depth and speed/log transducers are located, change the nut, and run the cables back again. Thanks for the reply and attention. V/r, Dennis
 
Jun 13, 2004
60
Hunter 306 Bluewater Bay Marina (Niceville, FL)
Decision Point on replacing Depth Transducer re...

...taining nut! :) I am at a decision point in how to proceed to replace the Raymarine ST40 depth transducer retaining nut. Thanks for the comments and support. EITHER I go into the pedestal and try to follow the cable from the three connectors at the back of the depth indicator through the pedestal wiring bundles down through the pedestal through the waterproof (somewhere) seal between outside and inside (probably by the cockpit floor by the pedestal mount) thence through the sole flooring to the bilge area by the transducer to put on the new transducer retaining nut (a $6 part!) and then re-run the cable...OR...I just snip the cable by the transducer with enough slack to make good (well, my best) soldered splices for each of the three small wires in the cable covering each with a small heat shrink tube, and encasing the whole cable and three splices in another larger heat shrink tube...AND THEN just see if my depth instrument works. The former looks to be probably more than I can do in terms of pedestal and (whatever) disassembly and loosening up the cable enough to remove it. I did get the Raymarine support engineer, who first told me that this ST40 transducer cable should not be cut, when he was pressed, to admit that that was just the official position, and..."we do not suggest doing this. Unofficially, many have and it has worked out okay. Just make sure you do a very good splice and it is well protected. Otherwise the impedance will change and you could find the depth not working at all." ANY EXPERIENCE OUT THERE WITH ANYONE CUTTING AND RE-SPLICING A RAYMARINE ST40 DEPTH TRANSDUCER?
 
Jun 21, 2004
88
Hunter H31 Niagara Falls
decisions, decisions...

Dennis, I am glad the Raymarine folks finally gave you the real story. It's all a question of not significantly changing the impedence (or resistance) of the system. The display unit expects to see a certain impedence supplied by the sensor and the wire. Snipping and resoldering is likely to produce a negligable change, if any. I'd bet that even if the impedence did measurably change (like if you were to add 6 inches of wire) that it could be compensated for during the calibration routine. If the connection starts to corrode however... now we have problems. Then the impedance would change with time as the metal oxidizes, or as the humidity changes, or as... you get the idea. I can see why they would reccommend not cutting the wire. Most guys would simply crimp the connections back together. That is asking for trouble on a boat, especially with something that is sensitive to changes in impedance. I think your shrink wrap plan will work fine as long as the connection will not get wet. But if you feel you need to do more, consider a product like the one in the link. Its also THE THING to use for bilge pump and float connections. Regardless of what the instructions say, I would also solder the wires. It cant hurt as long as everything still fits together. Is one of the three wires connected at the back of the display a bare wire? I think that is the lead Raynmarine uses for the Seatalk links. If so, it is not as impedence sensitive, but you may want to cover it all with shrinkwrap or something similar. As far as decisions, start thinking about your choise of cocktail after the job is done.
 
Jun 13, 2004
60
Hunter 306 Bluewater Bay Marina (Niceville, FL)
Thanks for the support. Will...

...let you know how it turns out. The waterproof splices (Blazing Splices) looks interesting. I still think a small gage waterproof heat shrink tubing over each soldered splice, and a larger waterproof heat shrink over the whole surgery when completed is the best way to waterproof and forestall corrosion. Thanks. (Oh, and it'll be a Pilsner Urquell when I get it properly finished....and the depth reads the initial 4 feet of my slip.)
 

BruceK

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Jul 26, 2005
74
Hunter 33 Portland, ME
Worked so far

I had to replace the speed transducer on my ST50...cut the line and spliced without solder last year and it still works...if it quits, I will redo with solder...the wire is very fine and difficult to deal with, by the way.
 
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