Sounds easy but ... Any hints on where to attach spring lines? At this time we have them attached to the deck block and stanchion. Bought cleats for amidship, but they won't fit on the toe rail.! MMMMMM
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D Sorenson
Carabiner answer
I use SS carabiners in the aluminum toe rail holes to attach the spring lines on my Hunter 40. With a boat's mass I use the biggest one that West Marine sells (5") inorder to get the 5/8" spring line in the small end of the carabiner. I used a similar arraingement on my San Juan 26 for 20 years with out problems to the toe rail.
I use SS carabiners in the aluminum toe rail holes to attach the spring lines on my Hunter 40. With a boat's mass I use the biggest one that West Marine sells (5") inorder to get the 5/8" spring line in the small end of the carabiner. I used a similar arraingement on my San Juan 26 for 20 years with out problems to the toe rail.
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Mike DiMario
You can always .....
Run spring lines from a piling to the foredeck cleat and the stern cleat. It seems as though you would get the purchase you need and it would prevent fore to aft motion in the same manner as a mid ship cleat. taking so much for granted, like mid ship cleats... Mike D.
Run spring lines from a piling to the foredeck cleat and the stern cleat. It seems as though you would get the purchase you need and it would prevent fore to aft motion in the same manner as a mid ship cleat. taking so much for granted, like mid ship cleats... Mike D.
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Tom FitzGibbon
Miship Cleats
I had my yard install fold down mid-ship cleats for the spring lines on my 33. They backed them with teak blocks so even from in the cabin they look OK. This is one of the best upgrades I made. My biggest mistake, though, was ordering the cleats through the yard at $115 each. If you do this, however, it is CRITICAL that you either get the fold down kind or the pop-up kind to avoid snagged lines and (more importantly) stubbed toes. Tom FitzGibbon S/V Plan B
I had my yard install fold down mid-ship cleats for the spring lines on my 33. They backed them with teak blocks so even from in the cabin they look OK. This is one of the best upgrades I made. My biggest mistake, though, was ordering the cleats through the yard at $115 each. If you do this, however, it is CRITICAL that you either get the fold down kind or the pop-up kind to avoid snagged lines and (more importantly) stubbed toes. Tom FitzGibbon S/V Plan B
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Ron Hughes
Amidships cleats
Schaefer makes a really nice adjustable cleat the fits on your genoa track. It has a simple yet elegant release that pops up out of the cleat itself when you want to move it. It fits 1 1/4" track, and if you keep it on the forward end of yours, you won't stub those toes either! A section of hose or leather will protect the line from chafe. Ron
Schaefer makes a really nice adjustable cleat the fits on your genoa track. It has a simple yet elegant release that pops up out of the cleat itself when you want to move it. It fits 1 1/4" track, and if you keep it on the forward end of yours, you won't stub those toes either! A section of hose or leather will protect the line from chafe. Ron
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Mike Fyffe
Carabiner also
I also use a carabiner to the toe-rail. But after a month on the dock I noticed some wear on the aluminum toe-rail. Now I use a short eye-splice (6") with a stopper knot to attach to the rail and the crab' hangs outboard. I noticed it banging the first time we took Camelot out so we just clip it on the rail in the next scupper, or you could remove it to sail. You can see Camelot at our web page; http://home.att.net/~radars. Camelot out
I also use a carabiner to the toe-rail. But after a month on the dock I noticed some wear on the aluminum toe-rail. Now I use a short eye-splice (6") with a stopper knot to attach to the rail and the crab' hangs outboard. I noticed it banging the first time we took Camelot out so we just clip it on the rail in the next scupper, or you could remove it to sail. You can see Camelot at our web page; http://home.att.net/~radars. Camelot out
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Sean D.
My friend the toe rail......
I agree with using the holes in the toe rail as your friend in conjuction with a little SS. Pro's - keeps the lines off the deck completely and chafe is minimal. Con's - maybe the toe rail isn't as strong as you like?? In bad weather, tie an extra spring to the stays down low near the deck, good strong spot. Otherwise, I think you will find it is a good solution.
I agree with using the holes in the toe rail as your friend in conjuction with a little SS. Pro's - keeps the lines off the deck completely and chafe is minimal. Con's - maybe the toe rail isn't as strong as you like?? In bad weather, tie an extra spring to the stays down low near the deck, good strong spot. Otherwise, I think you will find it is a good solution.
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Jim Ewing
Blocked up
On my 37.5 I had two blocks of teflon machined to the height of the toe rail and drilled & countersunk on center to fit the spacing of my toerail/hull/deck joint. I mounted a pair of cleats from Hunter (to match my existing) to the block and mounted the whole mess to the toerail bolted through the hull/deck joint. No new holes, the spring lines and cleats are out of the way, I get a fair lead to the cleat and it's very strong. Plus the whole thing cost much less than a pair of foldables or track mounted cleats. Jim "Prospect"
On my 37.5 I had two blocks of teflon machined to the height of the toe rail and drilled & countersunk on center to fit the spacing of my toerail/hull/deck joint. I mounted a pair of cleats from Hunter (to match my existing) to the block and mounted the whole mess to the toerail bolted through the hull/deck joint. No new holes, the spring lines and cleats are out of the way, I get a fair lead to the cleat and it's very strong. Plus the whole thing cost much less than a pair of foldables or track mounted cleats. Jim "Prospect"
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Chuck Wolfe
Spring Line and Toe Rail
Uh! Did you remove the bolts going through the toe-rail and get longer bolts or what? A picture or diagram might give me a clue. Or did you just bolt the thing trough the toe-rail? ChuckWolfe@mail.com
Uh! Did you remove the bolts going through the toe-rail and get longer bolts or what? A picture or diagram might give me a clue. Or did you just bolt the thing trough the toe-rail? ChuckWolfe@mail.com
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