My new 340 is currently on land for the winter. Soon it will be launched again. Is there any engine preparation that is needed before I start the engine? The oil is changed.
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Hold the kill switch
Crank the engine while pressing down on the kill switch until the alarm stops sounding. That means that you have achieved oil pressure and the engine is well lubricated. Let go of the kill switch and it will start up all oiled up.
Crank the engine while pressing down on the kill switch until the alarm stops sounding. That means that you have achieved oil pressure and the engine is well lubricated. Let go of the kill switch and it will start up all oiled up.
One way, based more on. . .
what I have read here than actual experience. But this will be my third season of doing it this way. First I buy the Yanmar "minor kit" with all the necessary filters and impellers. Next I remove the cover that was over the engine all winter. Under the cover is an engine that was cleaned and sprayed with WD-40 last Fall. Then I replace the two water-pump impellers and the fuel and air filters. My engine gets so little use that I have only replaced the belt once. I remove the water intake from the thru-hull and place a bucket nearby. And a hose with good water pressure. After insuring that the tranny is in neutral I test the starter to see if everything is ready. If so I fill the bucket, place the water intake in it(have to connect a hose extension), and start the engine. The last two seasons it started within three attempts in less than twenty seconds. Let it run for a few minutes using the hose to keep water in the bucket. Turn her off and reinstall the hose to the seacock. Right before launch I make sure all access to seacocks and stuffing box are clear so that I can make a quick check. Motoring out to the slip is sufficient to warm the oil so I change it after I get there. If the wind isn't too stiff out of the North I go sailing!!! After motoring out the river and back it is a good time to check the Racor for any water. Especially since I am starting with an empty tank this season.
what I have read here than actual experience. But this will be my third season of doing it this way. First I buy the Yanmar "minor kit" with all the necessary filters and impellers. Next I remove the cover that was over the engine all winter. Under the cover is an engine that was cleaned and sprayed with WD-40 last Fall. Then I replace the two water-pump impellers and the fuel and air filters. My engine gets so little use that I have only replaced the belt once. I remove the water intake from the thru-hull and place a bucket nearby. And a hose with good water pressure. After insuring that the tranny is in neutral I test the starter to see if everything is ready. If so I fill the bucket, place the water intake in it(have to connect a hose extension), and start the engine. The last two seasons it started within three attempts in less than twenty seconds. Let it run for a few minutes using the hose to keep water in the bucket. Turn her off and reinstall the hose to the seacock. Right before launch I make sure all access to seacocks and stuffing box are clear so that I can make a quick check. Motoring out to the slip is sufficient to warm the oil so I change it after I get there. If the wind isn't too stiff out of the North I go sailing!!! After motoring out the river and back it is a good time to check the Racor for any water. Especially since I am starting with an empty tank this season.
Ed...
I thought it was best to change the oil in the fall before winterizing the boat. Do you do it twice (fall and spring?)
I thought it was best to change the oil in the fall before winterizing the boat. Do you do it twice (fall and spring?)
Once in fall once in spring
You always want to change the oil in the fall to prevent damage from the degraded (acidic) oil. Change it again in spring. Heat the engine and oil (run the engine) then replace the winter oil with fresh oil. I do this every year, and my marina, a Yanmar authorized service center recommends it too. Always use a Yanmar oil filter!!!!! The off the shelf Fram, etc., filters are not designed to handle the higher pressure Yanmar diesels subject the filters to. Oil actually bypasses the filter by opening and flowing through the filters lower set internal relief valve. Yanmar diesels channel oil to the filter on the high pressure side of the oil pump. The Yanmar filters relief valve is sized for this higher pressure. Cars filter oil on the suction lower pressure side of the oil pump.
You always want to change the oil in the fall to prevent damage from the degraded (acidic) oil. Change it again in spring. Heat the engine and oil (run the engine) then replace the winter oil with fresh oil. I do this every year, and my marina, a Yanmar authorized service center recommends it too. Always use a Yanmar oil filter!!!!! The off the shelf Fram, etc., filters are not designed to handle the higher pressure Yanmar diesels subject the filters to. Oil actually bypasses the filter by opening and flowing through the filters lower set internal relief valve. Yanmar diesels channel oil to the filter on the high pressure side of the oil pump. The Yanmar filters relief valve is sized for this higher pressure. Cars filter oil on the suction lower pressure side of the oil pump.
So George, what you are saying is. . .
that my oil is degrading over the months it sits on the hard? And new oil will not degrade? Since I don't motor more than six to ten hours a season I felt it unecessary to change before haul out. But I certainly will if there is a chance I could damage the Yanmar. It's almost too hard and messy a job to do twice. And the oil has to be very warm to use any of the extraction methods that I have. So I have to be in the water.
that my oil is degrading over the months it sits on the hard? And new oil will not degrade? Since I don't motor more than six to ten hours a season I felt it unecessary to change before haul out. But I certainly will if there is a chance I could damage the Yanmar. It's almost too hard and messy a job to do twice. And the oil has to be very warm to use any of the extraction methods that I have. So I have to be in the water.
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