I am preparing to finish the interior woodwork on my 310. Does anyone have any suggestions for preparing the wood/veneer on the soleboards, cabinets, doors and bulkheads? Any recommendations for type of varnish. I'm looking to get a nice clear finish that will also protect the wood/veneer.
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Varnish
Generally I find that steel or bronze wool is sufficient to prepare previous varnish prior to refinishing, unless, of course the wood is in such a condition that sanding is required. I'm not a traditionalist when it comes to using marine varnish for everything, and I use Flecto Varathane (available in gloss or satin) on interior surfaces subject to wear instead of varnish because of its scuff resistance. On cabinetry, I prefer the look (and feel!)of wax applied with 0000 steel wool and buffed to a rich satin finish.
Generally I find that steel or bronze wool is sufficient to prepare previous varnish prior to refinishing, unless, of course the wood is in such a condition that sanding is required. I'm not a traditionalist when it comes to using marine varnish for everything, and I use Flecto Varathane (available in gloss or satin) on interior surfaces subject to wear instead of varnish because of its scuff resistance. On cabinetry, I prefer the look (and feel!)of wax applied with 0000 steel wool and buffed to a rich satin finish.
Oil Finish
Personally, I prefer a more natural and less glossy look for the interior woodwork. I just periodically use lemon oil on the finished woodwork to clean clean it and restore some of the natural oils and moisture. Of course, I am applying it to woodwork that has been previously finished and not to bare wood. On bare wood, I would probably use an oil finish, like Watco's Danish Oil. George is right about not limiting yourself to overpiced "Marine" products. Go to Home Depot, Lowes or your local paint store and save a few bucks. I'd be very reluctant to use steel wool on a boat, however. I use it all the time at home for refinishing and waxing. Again I agree with George that nothing looks better on wood than a quality paste wax applied with 0000 steel wool. BUT, it can leave behind little shards of steel that aren't noticeable until they rust. Then you've got big trouble. I'd sticck with bronze wool on a boat. Another wax option is liquid wax applied with a soft, clean white cloth (I actually use cloth diapers - pricey but great around the shop or when painting). Use paper towels to wipe off the excess then buff to a high shine with another clean cloth. Don't use it on the sole! Tom FitzGibbon S/V Plan B
Personally, I prefer a more natural and less glossy look for the interior woodwork. I just periodically use lemon oil on the finished woodwork to clean clean it and restore some of the natural oils and moisture. Of course, I am applying it to woodwork that has been previously finished and not to bare wood. On bare wood, I would probably use an oil finish, like Watco's Danish Oil. George is right about not limiting yourself to overpiced "Marine" products. Go to Home Depot, Lowes or your local paint store and save a few bucks. I'd be very reluctant to use steel wool on a boat, however. I use it all the time at home for refinishing and waxing. Again I agree with George that nothing looks better on wood than a quality paste wax applied with 0000 steel wool. BUT, it can leave behind little shards of steel that aren't noticeable until they rust. Then you've got big trouble. I'd sticck with bronze wool on a boat. Another wax option is liquid wax applied with a soft, clean white cloth (I actually use cloth diapers - pricey but great around the shop or when painting). Use paper towels to wipe off the excess then buff to a high shine with another clean cloth. Don't use it on the sole! Tom FitzGibbon S/V Plan B
Daly's SeaFin Teakoil
Hunter uses Daly's SeaFin TeakOil for their cabinetry and ProFin for the decks. It can be purchased from Daly's in Seattle and Bellevue, WA. I used it SeaFin) on new cabinets that I had built on by L37 (see Photo Forum) and have been very pleased.
Hunter uses Daly's SeaFin TeakOil for their cabinetry and ProFin for the decks. It can be purchased from Daly's in Seattle and Bellevue, WA. I used it SeaFin) on new cabinets that I had built on by L37 (see Photo Forum) and have been very pleased.
Bronze wool
I know the objection to steel wool, and I never had a problem with "leftovers" on a hard wood surfaces properly dusted with a tack rag, but I stand properly chastised - why not go with bronze and avoid the possibility altogether! On bare wood I would agree that Watco is great stuff, just wasn't sure you were going all the way to bare wood. By the way, there is a terrific lemony-smelling liquid beeswax-based liquid wax available that I have used for periodic cleaning and re-polishing after the initial waxing, but the name escapes me right now...
I know the objection to steel wool, and I never had a problem with "leftovers" on a hard wood surfaces properly dusted with a tack rag, but I stand properly chastised - why not go with bronze and avoid the possibility altogether! On bare wood I would agree that Watco is great stuff, just wasn't sure you were going all the way to bare wood. By the way, there is a terrific lemony-smelling liquid beeswax-based liquid wax available that I have used for periodic cleaning and re-polishing after the initial waxing, but the name escapes me right now...
George, no chastising
was intended, and I heartily and sincerely apologize if it appeared that way. Unfortunately, a friend learned the hard way that steel wool and salt water don't mix and, after seeing the result, I took the lesson to heart. Regards, Tom FitzGibbon
was intended, and I heartily and sincerely apologize if it appeared that way. Unfortunately, a friend learned the hard way that steel wool and salt water don't mix and, after seeing the result, I took the lesson to heart. Regards, Tom FitzGibbon
Teakguard and lemon oil
I've used All Guard Teakguard on our hatch boards, cabin floor, and table for about 3 years now. One or two coats each spring is all that's needed. I especially like the finish on the table. It's better than new. Not as pleased with the finish on the cabin floor. I use only a good quality lemon oil on the other interior teak surfaces, rubbed on 2 to 3 times a season. That still looks like new.
I've used All Guard Teakguard on our hatch boards, cabin floor, and table for about 3 years now. One or two coats each spring is all that's needed. I especially like the finish on the table. It's better than new. Not as pleased with the finish on the cabin floor. I use only a good quality lemon oil on the other interior teak surfaces, rubbed on 2 to 3 times a season. That still looks like new.
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