Has anyone ever had the Barrier Coat sprayed on and how did it turn out? I used Interlux 2000 on my previous boat but it turned out with an orange peel surface. I don't want that to happen again. Would anyone recommend VC-Tar?
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Jim, why?
Barrier coats are epoxy. That means expensive. Spray application is intrinsically wasteful. Plus catalyzed coatings have to be cleaned from the application equipment before they kick. That's almost always best left to a production facility. A roller is the only way to go.
Barrier coats are epoxy. That means expensive. Spray application is intrinsically wasteful. Plus catalyzed coatings have to be cleaned from the application equipment before they kick. That's almost always best left to a production facility. A roller is the only way to go.
Practice on the rudder.
It is possibly a combination of two thick of a coating with the wrong roller pad. I cannot remember what type of roller I used for my six coats of Interlux 2000E. But it went on really smooth. That was eight years ago and my memory is gone.
It is possibly a combination of two thick of a coating with the wrong roller pad. I cannot remember what type of roller I used for my six coats of Interlux 2000E. But it went on really smooth. That was eight years ago and my memory is gone.
Spray Requirements
You need a lower viscosity to get he paint thru the gun. I have often used a Wagner spray painter with Baltoplate vinyl based racing bottom paint but had to at least slightly thin it out and there was a 'V' groove in their plastic paint stirrer that showed where the viscosity needed to be for spraying. The point is thining seems to defeat the purpose of the barrier coating; ie applied thickness; multi coats. I rolled on consecutive coats of Interlux 2000 many years ago; rolling on ; mixing more; continuing around another pass, etc until I had about three coats and stopped for the day. Then started fresh by 'knocking down' the previous day's 'orange peel' with dry 80 grit paper and doing another three coats. Finally wetsanding smooth and applying the racing bottom paint. That is the only reason to do this and it has held up for 20 seasons under the vinyl Baltoplate racing paint---- but WAY TOO MUCH WORK-- unless you want to have that competative wet sanded bottom finish!
You need a lower viscosity to get he paint thru the gun. I have often used a Wagner spray painter with Baltoplate vinyl based racing bottom paint but had to at least slightly thin it out and there was a 'V' groove in their plastic paint stirrer that showed where the viscosity needed to be for spraying. The point is thining seems to defeat the purpose of the barrier coating; ie applied thickness; multi coats. I rolled on consecutive coats of Interlux 2000 many years ago; rolling on ; mixing more; continuing around another pass, etc until I had about three coats and stopped for the day. Then started fresh by 'knocking down' the previous day's 'orange peel' with dry 80 grit paper and doing another three coats. Finally wetsanding smooth and applying the racing bottom paint. That is the only reason to do this and it has held up for 20 seasons under the vinyl Baltoplate racing paint---- but WAY TOO MUCH WORK-- unless you want to have that competative wet sanded bottom finish!
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