Spongy Foredeck

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Mar 16, 2011
13
Oday 22 1977 Bayville NJ
Have a Spongy Foredeck Three ' X Three ' any one know what what is between the Deck and the Cabin.
Would Drilling small holes and injecting some type of foam be a simple solution ?
 
Oct 10, 2006
492
Oday 222 Mt. Pleasant, SC
Should be balsa in the core. When I hear spongy, I think rotted. You may get lucky and it's just delaminated. For something that size, if it is rot, you may need to remove a section of fiberglass, either the top or bottom, and replace the core. I've had luck with smaller sections on mine where I was able to drill holes, removing as much of the core as I could, drying the rest, and then injecting epoxy. You may want to pick up one of Don Casey's many books on how to properly do this repair.
 
Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Ahoy captined. Could be balsa, could be plywood or some combination of both. I'm in the process of a complete deck restoration on my 27 using the Gougeon Bros. Fiberglass boat repair and maintenance manual as a guide #002-550. It can be viewed online at Jamestown Distributors by viewing West Systems 105 resin and scrolling down to more info. You can also get a peak at a 27 layed open under bigger boats "And so it begins" thread. Just a note: not everyone needs to go to the extremes I am.
 
Oct 2, 2008
1,424
Island Packet 31 Brunswick, Ga
Have a Spongy Foredeck Three ' X Three ' any one know what what is between the Deck and the Cabin.
Would Drilling small holes and injecting some type of foam be a simple solution ?
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If the core material is not balsa, or perhaps, a mixture of the two, then it might as well be. No, drilling bunch of holes and squirting the substance of your choice will not work any better than ignoring the problem, which is an option if you do not get too far from shore....if you want you can check out the threads on my repairs by looking under the statistics in my profile page. Try the forums "trouble with tabernacles" and "cutta hole in my boat" .
it is time to bone up on don casey's " This old boat", and get to know the helpful tool man at Sears, and this forum....
it is going to look something like this....
 

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Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Have a Spongy Foredeck Three ' X Three ' any one know what what is between the Deck and the Cabin.
Would Drilling small holes and injecting some type of foam be a simple solution ?
I think that it's important to find out where the leak originated. The only way to do that is to take off the top layer of fiberglass as Keith did and dig out the rot. The leak could have started from a cap rail screw hole in the fiberglass, the bow pulpit flange, or any type of hardware on the forward deck.
Pick up Don Casey's book on Fiberglass Repair entitled, "Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair" or "This Old Boat." These books may be found in your public Library. Use a top brand of Fiberglass Epoxy resin with a good core material. Don't use Polyester Resin. Epoxy won't absorb moisture. Polyester resins will.
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Have a Spongy Foredeck Three ' X Three ' any one know what what is between the Deck and the Cabin.
Would Drilling small holes and injecting some type of foam be a simple solution ?
Speaking of leaks, I just found a tiny leak coming through the thread of one bolt that holds my tension bar to the ceiling down in the cabin. To get at this bolt I'll need to remove my hinged tabernacle, utility plate, and the Teak block that it sits on. I'm using two of the four original bolts that held my old tabernacle, to hold the tension bar flange. The four bolts for my newer stainless steel hinge tabernacle have wider spacing. It's really a shame because there is no other way to get at those two bolts without removing the tabernacle which has been sealed good and water tight for years.
I'll most likely break one of the bolts holding the tabernacle while removing them but it has to be done. I found a small damp spot on my V birth cushion about the size of a half dollar this morning when I checked for that other leak that I stopped, and I could still see a couple of drops of moisture on the suspect bolt but that's all it takes for water to get entrapped between the core and start to slowly rot it out. It's always a good idea to address a problem such as this as soon as possible.
 
Oct 2, 2008
1,424
Island Packet 31 Brunswick, Ga
Speaking of leaks, I just found a tiny leak coming through the thread of one bolt that holds my tension bar to the ceiling down in the cabin. To get at this bolt I'll need to remove my hinged tabernacle, utility plate, and the Teak block that it sits on. I'm using two of the four original bolts that held my old tabernacle, to hold the tension bar flange. The four bolts for my newer stainless steel hinge tabernacle have wider spacing. It's really a shame because there is no other way to get at those two bolts without removing the tabernacle which has been sealed good and water tight for years.
I'll most likely break one of the bolts holding the tabernacle while removing them but it has to be done. I found a small damp spot on my V birth cushion about the size of a half dollar this morning when I checked for that other leak that I stopped, and I could still see a couple of drops of moisture on the suspect bolt but that's all it takes for water to get entrapped between the core and start to slowly rot it out. It's always a good idea to address a problem such as this as soon as possible.
Joe, when you reseat, consider the butyl rubber. I have way way more success with it than any other sealant I've used (4200, life caulk, life seal) way cheaper too and you don't throw away what's left. It keeps!
Keith
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Joe, when you reseat, consider the butyl rubber. I have way way more success with it than any other sealant I've used (4200, life caulk, life seal) way cheaper too and you don't throw away what's left. It keeps!
Keith
I'll check it out Keith. Thank you.

Joe
 
Oct 10, 2006
492
Oday 222 Mt. Pleasant, SC
Joe, when you reseat, consider the butyl rubber. I have way way more success with it than any other sealant I've used (4200, life caulk, life seal) way cheaper too and you don't throw away what's left. It keeps!
Keith
Have you found butyl locally or did you order yours? I'm getting ready to start adding deck hardware back and was going to go this route.
 
Oct 2, 2008
1,424
Island Packet 31 Brunswick, Ga
Last edited:
Oct 2, 2008
1,424
Island Packet 31 Brunswick, Ga
emergpa1 said:
i just got off the boat from reseating my jib sheet blocks, they leaked with lifecaulk after on the first spring rain sitting in my driveway. mainesail has it, try this: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape&view=tree
Reason they leaked is that the base of these blocks is rather thin and not smooth and I don't think I was able to fill all the voids. But the point is that the butyl seems to be way more forgiving. It doesnt dry and then pull loose like other caulks. I think Maine sail has a how too website that goes into butyl rubber in depth. I think if u toy around with the link I gave in this thread u will get to the how to section
Keith
 
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