Splicing rope to steel cable

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CYQK

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Sep 11, 2009
592
beneteau first 42 kenora
Inside my boom is 1/2 inch rope spliced to 3/16 inch stainless cable
Would like to learn how to do this splice this time myself
Anything out there that show how much to feed the cable into the rope and how to make the weave at the end onto the cable
Thanks
Gary
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
I would suggest that you abandon wire to cable splices and in its place simply use one of the super-high-tech/ultra strong polymer 'ropes' such as dyneema, etc. These have almost the same load carrying capability of stainless cable but have the advantage that they are more 'flexible' and thus will better be able to be led over small diameter sheeves.

Since this application is inside a boom the ultra high tech 'rope' will not be subject to UV damage, the only disadvantage of using these ultra high tech 'ropes' - vulnerability to UV damage. Such ultra high strength polymer 'ropes' are extremely slippery - just learn how to do a simple/easy 'brummel splice' for the connections.
 

CYQK

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Sep 11, 2009
592
beneteau first 42 kenora
Have been wondering if there was a latest and greatest replacement to the wire/rope splice considering newer ideas but would also like to learn the splice method
 
Apr 18, 2007
53
Jeanneau Sun Oddysey 40.3 Chicago, IL, USA
The topic is too long for a forum post, but I'd refer you to any one of the many splicing books that cover this technique. Brian Toss is a popular author although I can't guarantee that he's covered it for this size wire. I'll describe what I remember from the ancient past, but I'm likely leaving something out. One other thing, with modern ropes you don't gain much from the wire part, so you might consider replacing the wire portion with rope and avoiding the splice completely.

You'll need a small, sharply pointed fid to lift the wires. I used something like a 'Swedish fid' that has a cupped point that gives you a 'tunnel' for the rope to slide thru instead of a standard 'point' fid where you have to slide the rope next to the fid. The commercial fids like that are generally too large for this size wire so I had made my own out of a brass sheet that I bent around a dowel.

Dip the cleanly cut end of the wire into epoxy (just 1/4" or so) and let it harden to cover the wire ends so it slips into the core without snagging. Tie a knot 6' or so up the rope, then slide the cover back and trim the core- I don't remember how much - maybe 8"? Then slip the wire about 18" into the core past the start of the splice - about 24" before you unlay the core. Tape the core tightly around the wire. If length is critical, this is exactly where you need to set it.

Then unbraid the core for about 8" and tape at the end of the unlayment tightly to hold it in place. I can't remember anymore about the tails - you may be supposed to remove some of the rope strands before the splice? But I don't think so - it would clearly compromise the splice - this is where an experts instructions would be worthwhile. BTW, if your rope has an unlaid core (like Sta-Set, for example) I don't know what to tell you. The same instructions may apply, but more likely there's something specific you need to do.

Now comes the tricky part. Group the unlaid core strands into three tails. You'll want to tuck each rope strand under TWO wire strands at a time, so since your wire (probably) has six strands this will work.

Use the tip of the fid to gently lift two wires. The hardest thing here is to NOT snag a strand off the inner core with the sharp tip of the fid. It has to be sharp to get between the small wires, but risks snagging, so be careful! A bad snag will protrude from the splice, break, etc. All bad stuff. If you've got some spare wire, perhaps a cutoff or the old wire, practice this step and adjust the sharpness of your fid until you can do it consistently. You'll be doing it A LOT and it helps if you can do it smoothly.

Once you have the wires lifted, slip one strand under the wires going WITH the lay. This is backward from a normal three-strand splice, so it feels weird at first, but that's the way I was taught. Continue lifting and tucking, pulling everything smooth and fair for three tucks. Keep the tucks even on the three strands and pushed back toward the start of the splice but you want the wire to not be deformed - just expanded to contain the rope strands.

Then trim 1/3 of the rope strands away and tuck again, repeat that again and cut the strands off at the rope surface. Hopefully the 8" unlayment will be sufficient for this - I can't remember the exact amount. Some people recommend whipping the tail of the splice but on this small diameter it won't work very well. Tape over it if you want to.

Then skin the cover back over your splice and unlay it back to the end of the core splice and repeat the whole process with those strands.

If you get it right, you'll have a beautifully tapered splice where the wire strands show between smoothly flowing tucks of rope fibers. If you've got a lumpy, misshapen mess you'll know better next time!

Good luck!

Marty
 
Dec 2, 2003
1,637
Hunter 376 Warsash, England --
An Easier Way

I do it exactly the opposite way to Marty.
Most flexible cables are 7 x 19. This means seven bundles of 19 strands of fine wire in each of 7 main strands. There is a central core strand with six more wound around it. Sometimes the core strand is not even wire.

I either use 3 strand rope or expose the core of braided rope as Marty says above.

Put a turn of pvc tape about a foot up the cable and unlay the 6 strands.

Keeping them in pairs twist them and put a turn of tape round the end of each pair to prevent them fraying - so you then have 3 pairs leaving the central strand free. Cut it off as the wire is usually much stronger than the rope.

Unlay about 2" of the rope and place each strand between each of the pairs of wire exactly as you would start a butt splice with two ropes.

Put a tie of tape round the rope and wire an inch further along the rope from the join to hold it all together whilst you splice.

Now, using a Swedish fid, or better still a hollow fid, simply splice the wires into the rope. In your length it will need to be about 6 or 7 inches long. This is a conventional butt splice and not the long splice previously described by Marty.

Cut off the ends of rope and wire, making sure to tuck the ends of the wires inside because a prickly splice is murder on your hands.

Next simply serve along the entire length of the splice (or pull the covering back over and serve the end if using braid).

I find this quicker and easier than inserting rope into wire - particularly in these small sizes.

BTW I use wire/rope halyards and control lines where there is a chafe problem that rope, even fancy expensive kevlar etc, cannot survive.

If changing from wire/rope make sure the sheaves are sized for the rope as in some cases such as vangs and reefing tackles they are often not.
 

CYQK

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Sep 11, 2009
592
beneteau first 42 kenora
You were right ,not a quick answer on this one. Going to stick with it and will post my progress
Thanks
Gary
 
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