Spinnaker rigging on 1984 h22

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Jan 18, 2011
225
Hunter 26 Beaufort SC
I bought an asymmetrical spinnaker and pole off Craigslist for our H22. Problem is now I can't find any rigging info for it anywhere.
Does anyone have some pictures and detailed info on the easiest way to rig and fly these sails?
 

Clark

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Jun 30, 2004
886
Hunter 280 Lake Guntersville, AL
Some info . . .

I bought an asymmetrical spinnaker and pole off Craigslist for our H22. Problem is now I can't find any rigging info for it anywhere.
Does anyone have some pictures and detailed info on the easiest way to rig and fly these sails?
http://www.fxsails.com/spinnarticle2.php

http://www.harken.com/rigtips/spinnaker.php

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/spinnaker/spinnaker.htm

Asmmetrics do not require a pole unless you want to try and extend it out like you would a genoa. As for hardware, you'll need a spinnaker halyard, two sheets, two blocks mounted near the stern (or low on the stern pulpit) and a (short) line from a secure point on the bow to the tack. Conveniences are a sock for opening and snuffing the spinnaker and an adjustable tack as described in some of the links. IMHO, you don't need the "tacker" or parrel beads to hold the tack near/on the forestay or furled jib.
 
Jun 9, 2008
1,818
- -- -Bayfield
Asymmetricals don't require a pole, except you can buy a deck mounted sprit to get the tack of the sail away from the mainsail like a J/Boat for better performance. But, that may not be of interest to you. What you need is a halyard which is attached to the masthead via a bale and a block. I presume an h22 is a Hunter 22, which I think is a masthead boat. If fractional, then the halyard attached just above the forestay mast junction. Then you need two sheets and lastly a tack line which can be used by attaching a small block somewhere at the stemhead fitting. The line goes all the way aft to the cockpit where you can control the luff from there. The sail end of the line attaches at the tack of the kite. The tack corder of the spinnaker should also have a opening shackle which attaches to the forestay so the sail can ride up and down the forestay as you ease or pull on the tack line. This stabilizes the tack corner of the sail.
 
Jan 18, 2011
225
Hunter 26 Beaufort SC
Crap three days waiting on a reply just to figure out I spoke incorrectly. I have a standard spinnaker not asymmetric.
 

Clark

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Jun 30, 2004
886
Hunter 280 Lake Guntersville, AL
Much of the information still holds. You'll need a spinnaker halyard, two sheets - one for each clew, sheet blocks at/near the stern. In addition, you'll need a ring mounted on the front of the mast for pole attachment; preferably one with an adjustable car. Check the Catalina Direct site - Capri 22 section. They have a kit that includes a track, mounting hardware and adjustable car. You could get away with a fixed ring if mounted at about the correct height. Also, you'll need a pole topping lift which is like a mini halyard that is run from about where the spreaders are and a down haul to keep the pole from "skying".
Plunder around those sites that were linked and you'll find information about how they all work together.
 
Jun 9, 2008
1,818
- -- -Bayfield
You need a spinnaker pole the length of your J area. Then you need a pole topping lift and foreguy which supports the pole to keep it from falling on the deck or rising to the sky in a breeze. You need a halyard and you need two sheets. One sheet is a sheet (the end attached to the corner of the sail with no pole and the sheet fastened to the pole corner is then called the after guy). The topping lift is a line 5/16" that has a snap hook (quick to get on and off) that attaches to the upper bridle of the pole and then runs through a block above the spreaders and down to the deck and then routes aft to the cockpit. It is good to have the foreguy (or pole downhaul) end next to the pole topping lift as they usually are adjusted simultaneously. So, the downhaul runs with the same snap hook spliced to the same size line which runs through a block at the base of the leading edge of the mast and then aft to the cabin. The block can also be installed somewhere mid way from the mast to the stem head fitting too, if you like. The sheets run through foot or snatch blocks located way aft on each corner near the transom of each side. The halyard fits the same way as the A-kite from a bale at the top of the masthead, through a block and back down to the deck and then aft to the cockpit. If you hae a fractional rig, then the halyard block aloft goes just above where the forestay attaches to the mast. The spinnaker pole should be hooked into the eye on the mast with the jaws facing up. The eye can be a car which travels up and down on a track too. If you need some photos or drawings, then let me know.
 
Jan 18, 2011
225
Hunter 26 Beaufort SC
Ok, thanks alot guys. I've got the pole that's within 2-4" of the J length. I've got a 2' piece of track and an eye. I've just figuring out the topping, foreguy, and halyards.

If I understand correctly, Dave, I just use the spare halyard block at the top of the mast beside the jib halyard for the new Spinnaker halyard?
 
Jun 5, 2004
23
Hunter 22 Acworth/Atlanta
I added a block and cleat on the Port side just like the starboard side and ran a line inside the mast just like the Jib halyard. I also ran a line outside the mast and up to a block on the bail at the top of the mast. I found the the line outside the mast works best even though it's not as convenient. Here's why. The line inside the mast comes out on the left side and under the for-stay. My problem was that I could only raise the spinnaker on a starboard tack and lower it on the same side. If I had tacked to a port tack and tried to loser it it hung on the for-stay. It works but not as well as you would hope. I went back to the line on the outside of the mast and up to the block and bail.
 
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