Spinnaker rigging? How's yours?

Jun 2, 2014
602
Catalina 30 mkII - 1987 Alamitos Bay Marina, LB, CA
Hi All!
I have a basic understanding of some of the ways a symmetrical spinnaker is typically rigged.
I have a bridal system, and I've made it work, but something doesn't seem right or I'm just confused. The PO seems to have lots of dedicated hardware and lines for it, but I tried to put it all together and I ran into a few weird scenarios. I can find plenty of other boat's rigging setups online, but I'd like to see more of what you Catalina 30 folks do.
So, first here's what's on my deck:
Pad eye and cheek block:1.aft block.jpg
Jib track:1.Jib Track.jpg
Pad eye mid-way:1.mid pad eye.jpg
Pad eye mid-fore-deck:1.padeyemidforedeck.jpg
First, the bridal setup was fine. But for the lower part of the bridal rigging (is that called the foreguy in my case?) it seems to come with a deck block that has a cleat on it. Every which way I've tried it, right side up or upside-down, it requires going up there to release it, so I don't see the point in running the line all the way back to the cockpit. That confuses me. It's something like this (not my exact one, but similar):
1.deckblock.PNG
Here's two ways I can see doing my setup which I've attempted to test-rig both ways:
ways-to-set-spin.jpg
So, I've got bunch of hardware, some snatch blocks, and extra blocks that fit on my jib track. If I go with rigging setup "A", you have to go up there and take the guy line out and insert the sheet on the other side with the snatch block to tack each time. And that's fine I suppose (remember I'm lazy), and in this setup I appear to have enough deck hardware to accomplish what is pictured if I use the jib sheet winches as guy/spin sheet cleats (these are the only cleats I have, the self-tailing winches). So, I've got to remove the jib sheets from the cheek blocks before all of this too and put them somewhere.
My question about setup "A" is: do I use the pad eye locations mid way for the snatch block or something on the jib track? Where is the optimal place to put the guy block?

I've also experimented with setup "B", and tried using block hardware on the jib track, but for the life of me, I can't figure out a good way to cleat all the lines down. My only cleats again are the self tailing winches, so I have to first go to a block somewhere then back to the winches. And in this case I'd have to use all four of them, the jib winches and the little ones above the hatch. The lines get messy fast here.
Setup "B" seems cool because you don't have to take anything apart to tack, but I don't really see a practical way of doing it with the deck hardware. I have not idea what the PO had in mind, but there seem to be enough dedicated lines and hardware for me to use this setup.

I did manage to get it all rigged up with setup 'B' this day, but the next morning the wind turned and couldn't use it on the way to Catalina. Some day, on a good Santa Ana wind.
Starfish-Spinnaker.jpg
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
JIC nobody from the C30 fleet jumps in, I'll have a go. First, WELL DONE working on getting a symmetrical spin going on your boat! It is by far the most versatile way to go down wind.

Regarding the foreguy (or PoleDown, or as my foredeck ears call it the DownF*cker), a 30 is outside the range that you should have pivot from the mast base, so rule out Option A. Option B, where the PoleDown is positioned on the foredeck, gives MUCH better mechanical advantage. Important because PoleDown REALLY loads up. BUT (downside) you have to adjust it every time you move the pole back or forwards to match the wind. This is because in this option the distance to the base changes as the pole moves. But that's just the deal. So, there should be no cleats on the hardware (like yours pic shows) until it gets back to the cockpit.

Often boats will have TWO attach points on the foredeck, and make a 2:1 for the PoleDown by simply going up to a block and down to the deck. Halves the effort to adjust it. If you want to get REALLY fancy, you make the PoleDown a double ended line that you can adjust from either side of the cockpit.

One of your pics shows snatch blocks on the afterguy (everyone just says GUY now), that's a good concept, used to help keep the guy down, but for the last 20 years the best practice has been to use twings (adjustable lines with small snatch blocks over the sheet/guy). This allows adjustment of both lines, and most importantly while under load.

I'm sure I missed some of your questions, so fire away if I did.
 

druid

.
Apr 22, 2009
837
Ontario 32 Pender Harbour
If you're REALLY lazy (like I am!) you wouldn't bother with the snatch blocks at all - just let the guy fly! ;) The one thing I might put on the guy is... I donno what it's called, but it's like a whiskerpole so that you can get the pole off the forestay as you go deeper downwind. And I've been trying to figure out how the PO set up the pole on my boat: it looks like the foreguy (I think I've been calling it the downhaul... the line that holds the pole down) is attached at the END of the pole rather than the middle. That REALLY calls for some adjustments though...
And what about the toppinglift? You need a line to hold the pole up while you're gybing, usually attached to the middle of the pole.
BTW: I'm considering trying to fly my sym chute with no pole at all. I'm sure it would work dead downwind, and maybe with a tack line of some sort for the reaching... I donno, but along with a snuffer it would make the chute pretty easy to fly.

druid
 
Last edited:
Jan 1, 2006
7,687
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
I've seen some setups, maybe on slightly smaller boats, with shock cord on the downhaul side of the bridle. This allows some aft adjustment of the guy without immediate release of the downhaul.
I think you're going to need more cleats.
 
Oct 5, 2010
322
Catalina 30 mkII St. Augustine
image-1005384255.jpg



image-211820028.jpg



image-171356021.jpg



image-1236509910.jpg

Here is my setup. Spinnaker sheets go to turning block visible near stern cleat and then up to wrench which I really use just to turn the sheet. Down haul is rigged as shown through turning block and the up to the cockpit where it is cleated.
 
Nov 28, 2009
495
Catalina 30 St. Croix
B looking at your pole, I can see that you have bridles for both the foreguy or downhaul and the topping lift. It means that your boat was set up fir end to end jibing. Disconnect from mast, connect the guy to it, disconnect old sheet, and connect to mast. The foreguy should be eased about a foot or two to facilitate the operation. That is wfy you have a pad eye in the middle of the foredeck. The two sheets are led aft outside of the life lines to two snatch blocks on tbe rear pad eyes. The middle pad eyes are for tweek lines. Small block or ring for the spinnaker sheets to go trough. On the pole side bring it in and ease the sheet side. For the jibe, ease both. That is if you have brought the sheet side down to stabilize the chute while running in heavy air.
The turning blocks in the back are there for the genoa sheets. From the track car to the turning block, to the winch.