Spinlock clutch

Feb 20, 2011
8,058
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
Looks like a press-fit. Is it stacked side-by-side like the ones in the photo?
 

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Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Done this many times. That pin DOES come out. Use a hammer and a drift pin to hit the pin and not the base, which WILL crack if you abuse it.
 
Oct 2, 2008
3,810
Pearson/ 530 Strafford, NH
It's a single and I have it sitting beside me. So just drift the pin through.

All U Get
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,117
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Looking up "Pearson 530" on the web:- If your boat was built in the early 1980's, and if the Spinlock's are OEM, we might have had (or are having in your case) similar issues. This because several years ago I also needed to deal with your question on my 1980 Cherubini 36.

My observations (but not necessarily recommendations since each case is different):

First, if one of the handles has failed, others aren't likely to be far behind. Aside from the aluminum base plate, these clutches are mostly made of plastic. Both the handles and the "side-walls" get brittle with age and fail. See the attached pic of the cracked side plate of my OEM Spinlock. If yours is the same, just driving out the pin to install a new handle won't be a longer term fix. It is possible that one of the side-walls inside of your (double or triple or however many) has failed and you just can't see or have noticed. That said, when mine went bad, I did discover that rebuild kits including new sidewalls are available. And the price at the time was surprisingly reasonable. I don't remember where I found. You will have do your own web search and determine if rebuild is a good choice for you. The Spinlock clutches need to be removed to do the complete rebuild.

- Second: About the time I discovered my Spinlock clutch wasn't working very well, I happened upon some used heavier duty aluminum type double clutches at a swap meet for just a few $'s each. So that was my solution because for me it was possible to make new mounting holes without too much hassle. Hunter in the 1980's glassed in aluminum plates underneath. The clutch mounting machine screws (1/4" or maybe 5/16" I don't recall) are threaded directly into the aluminum plate. No nuts underneath. I wouldn't be surprised if Pearson did the same... but you will need to ascertain yourself if you have an aluminum plate. If you do have, then you are free to upgrade to most clutch manufacturer's current line-up. If you have the know-how, drilling/tapping new holes is easily doable. Make sure though that you mount your new clutches just like the old so that the lines lead true from the deck organizers and for wrapping around winches. As a big boat owner, you probably know about the bad joss between stainless steel and aluminum. If your Spinlocks in fact are mounted into an aluminum plate, likely SS machine screws were used. SS vs. Al over many years = galvanic corrosion. Removing your existing screws may not be a slam dunk.
 

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Oct 2, 2008
3,810
Pearson/ 530 Strafford, NH
Well I got it out and no blood was shed. Thanks Jackdaw. Found a source on-line for just a handle. Ordered from Annapolis Performance Sailing.

All U Get
 

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
Did this a couple of months ago on a dual line spinlock for my 1983 H31. once I got the concept, the work was rather easy. getting the pin out required a punch and hammer while supporting the side plate of the lock. I drilled a whole in a block of pine 2x4 large enough for the pin and the surrounding lip in the side plate. Lined up the pin with the hole, and went at it with a punch and dead blow hammer. The pin came out after a couple of hits. The new lever went in quite easily.
 
Oct 2, 2008
3,810
Pearson/ 530 Strafford, NH
I probably could have modified an old C-clamp and a short piece of tubing and pressed it out.

All U Get
 

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