spin halyard?
- Thread starter Hogan
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Hogan,
We have a 1996 280 which has a very similar rig. there should be an exit sheave 1-2' above the forestay on the mast. That is where the halyard exits the mast. Take a look at some of the owners photos on this site for examples. If you do not have one :-( you'll have to cut the slot for it and mount the sheave box before threading in the halyard.
We have a 1996 280 which has a very similar rig. there should be an exit sheave 1-2' above the forestay on the mast. That is where the halyard exits the mast. Take a look at some of the owners photos on this site for examples. If you do not have one :-( you'll have to cut the slot for it and mount the sheave box before threading in the halyard.
Hogan
That should be no problem. Typically most cruising sailors don't fly a spinnaker past 15kts so the forces on the rig will be rather minimal.
To install you simply need to cut a square out of the leading edge of the mast the size of the new sheave box. Install your exit plate on the side of the mast at least 7' above the deck this way you can jump the halyard with ease.
That should be no problem. Typically most cruising sailors don't fly a spinnaker past 15kts so the forces on the rig will be rather minimal.
To install you simply need to cut a square out of the leading edge of the mast the size of the new sheave box. Install your exit plate on the side of the mast at least 7' above the deck this way you can jump the halyard with ease.
Re: Hogan
My H23 has a Z-Spar mast with a flared exit for the spinnaker halyard sheave just above the forestay. The flare allows the eye splice at the end of the spinnaker halyard to orient itself downwind without chafing on the side of the exit slot. The spinnaker does not always draw straight ahead. On some points of sail, it will draw off to one side or the other, and it will definitely change sides when you gybe the boat. You may want to contact US Spars in Gainesville, Florida as they may have that flared exit in stock.
Peter
H23 "Raven"
My H23 has a Z-Spar mast with a flared exit for the spinnaker halyard sheave just above the forestay. The flare allows the eye splice at the end of the spinnaker halyard to orient itself downwind without chafing on the side of the exit slot. The spinnaker does not always draw straight ahead. On some points of sail, it will draw off to one side or the other, and it will definitely change sides when you gybe the boat. You may want to contact US Spars in Gainesville, Florida as they may have that flared exit in stock.
Peter
H23 "Raven"
Peter,
My H23 has a Z-Spar mast but no exit for a spinnaker. Could you find a picture of your mast and post, so those H23 owners that want to install a spinnaker would have a point of reference?
Thanks
Mark
My H23 has a Z-Spar mast but no exit for a spinnaker. Could you find a picture of your mast and post, so those H23 owners that want to install a spinnaker would have a point of reference?
Thanks
Mark
Hi Mark:
My mast is up and won't be down any time soon (boat is in the water). However, here's the next best thing.
Go to the US Spars website: http://www.usspars.com/
Use the pull-down menu to select manufacturer: Hunter
A new page will come up. Select Model: Hunter 23
Cllick the button that says "See Sections for this Model"
A new page will come up. Click the green link (Z190) to the right of "Conventional Section"
Line drawings of the three different Z-Spar masts for the H23 will appear. Look at the Z190 7/8. Type the number of the part you're seeking into the Item Identifier at the top of the page. A new web page showing a photo of the part and its price will appear.
Part No. 1051: The casting without sheaves or axles ("Combi triple Small")
Part No. 3283: the entire sheave exit/forestay attachment assembly
You can call US Spars and ask for further clarification if necessary.
For what they're asking, I'd get the entire assembly with sheaves. That way you know the sheaves and axles are good as the plastic sheaves tend to go bad after a while. All you have to do is drill out the old rivets, remove the old assembly, widen the opening and reeve the halyards. Make sure the jib halyard exits below the forestay and the spinnaker halyard exits above. Rivet the new assembly in place and you're there. It should only take a couple of hours.
Now for the halyard exit. You have a couple of options. If your mast step casting is the one with the main halyard exit at the bottom of the mast, it should have several openings for another sheave. Run the spinnaker halyard out the bottom of the mast and up through one of the slots, add the sheave and axle, rivet another cleat to the mast and you''re there. You won't even have to cut a slot in the mast. Of course, with this setup you have to pull UP to hoist the spinnaker, but if you have this mast step casting you're already used to doing that for the mainsail so it shouldn't be a problem.
If you don't have this mast step casting, you probably have to cut a new exit slot in the mast. That shouldn't be a big deal. Just be careful about where you cut the slot, because if iit's too close to the jib halyard exit you may create a weak point at which the mast could buckle. The Z190 section is very light.
US Spars also sells plastic halyard exits to prevent chafe. Good luck.
Peter
H23 "Raven"
My mast is up and won't be down any time soon (boat is in the water). However, here's the next best thing.
Go to the US Spars website: http://www.usspars.com/
Use the pull-down menu to select manufacturer: Hunter
A new page will come up. Select Model: Hunter 23
Cllick the button that says "See Sections for this Model"
A new page will come up. Click the green link (Z190) to the right of "Conventional Section"
Line drawings of the three different Z-Spar masts for the H23 will appear. Look at the Z190 7/8. Type the number of the part you're seeking into the Item Identifier at the top of the page. A new web page showing a photo of the part and its price will appear.
Part No. 1051: The casting without sheaves or axles ("Combi triple Small")
Part No. 3283: the entire sheave exit/forestay attachment assembly
You can call US Spars and ask for further clarification if necessary.
For what they're asking, I'd get the entire assembly with sheaves. That way you know the sheaves and axles are good as the plastic sheaves tend to go bad after a while. All you have to do is drill out the old rivets, remove the old assembly, widen the opening and reeve the halyards. Make sure the jib halyard exits below the forestay and the spinnaker halyard exits above. Rivet the new assembly in place and you're there. It should only take a couple of hours.
Now for the halyard exit. You have a couple of options. If your mast step casting is the one with the main halyard exit at the bottom of the mast, it should have several openings for another sheave. Run the spinnaker halyard out the bottom of the mast and up through one of the slots, add the sheave and axle, rivet another cleat to the mast and you''re there. You won't even have to cut a slot in the mast. Of course, with this setup you have to pull UP to hoist the spinnaker, but if you have this mast step casting you're already used to doing that for the mainsail so it shouldn't be a problem.
If you don't have this mast step casting, you probably have to cut a new exit slot in the mast. That shouldn't be a big deal. Just be careful about where you cut the slot, because if iit's too close to the jib halyard exit you may create a weak point at which the mast could buckle. The Z190 section is very light.
US Spars also sells plastic halyard exits to prevent chafe. Good luck.
Peter
H23 "Raven"
Almost ready!!!and another question.
Thanks all for the info. I have purchased line for halyard and sheets; working on finding the mast exit box then install time. 16 degrees here this morning makes that seem a tough task. Will wait for warmer day. Does anyone have recommendation on the measurements for genaker for the 260 assuming the spin halyard exits about 18 inches above the exit block for headsail. I have a beautiful gennaker that was a gift, but it is likely too long for my boat as is. Need to crop a couple of feet. All advice welcome.
Merry Christmas to all and fair (warmer) winds to you.
Thanks all for the info. I have purchased line for halyard and sheets; working on finding the mast exit box then install time. 16 degrees here this morning makes that seem a tough task. Will wait for warmer day. Does anyone have recommendation on the measurements for genaker for the 260 assuming the spin halyard exits about 18 inches above the exit block for headsail. I have a beautiful gennaker that was a gift, but it is likely too long for my boat as is. Need to crop a couple of feet. All advice welcome.
Merry Christmas to all and fair (warmer) winds to you.
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