Spare trailer tire
- Thread starter Jerry21707
- Start date
- Status
Used Wheel/Tire
Got mine at a used tire place. However, be sure the lugs match your trailer...just because they are both 4 or 5 holes, does not mean they will fit.
Got mine at a used tire place. However, be sure the lugs match your trailer...just because they are both 4 or 5 holes, does not mean they will fit.
Cheap Spare Tire
An automobile "donut spare" works great as a spare. Many tire stores have a pile of these that you can have for little or nothing. Just make sure the "wheel" matches your "bolt pattern."
An automobile "donut spare" works great as a spare. Many tire stores have a pile of these that you can have for little or nothing. Just make sure the "wheel" matches your "bolt pattern."
Just say no?
to using car and truck tires on trailers. I'm surprised nobody has added this. It comes up almost everywhere you read about trailer tires. I did a google search and found a couple of typical explanations which I've pasted here: --- snip --- These 'Special Trailer' (ST) tires have been constructed for better high speed durability and bruise resistance under heavy loads. Trailer tire construction varies substantially from automotive tires, therefore it is essential to choose the correct tire for your towing application. In general, trailer tires have the same load range (or ply) from bead to bead and are bias ply construction. This allows for a stiffer side wall which provides safer towing by helping to reduce trailer sway problems. The use of 'Passenger Car' (P) or 'Light Truck (LT) tires a on a trailer is not recommended because their construction, usually radial or bias belted, allows for more flexible side walls. This could lead to increased trailer sway and loss of control. --- snip --- All tires should be the same size. Unmatched tire sizes guarantees uneven tire loading, which may mean at least one overloaded tire. The trailer's dynamics and stability can be adversely Affected by mismatched tires as well. Likewise, mixing bias-ply with radial-- ply, for example, may lead to handling problems. Of course, there are contingencies where the only spare may be a mismatch. If at all possible, wait for the proper replacement tire to be brought to the trailer. Failing that, use a mismatched spare like the mini-spare in a car. Limit speed to 35 mph or less, and keep the mileage as low as possible. ...RickM...
to using car and truck tires on trailers. I'm surprised nobody has added this. It comes up almost everywhere you read about trailer tires. I did a google search and found a couple of typical explanations which I've pasted here: --- snip --- These 'Special Trailer' (ST) tires have been constructed for better high speed durability and bruise resistance under heavy loads. Trailer tire construction varies substantially from automotive tires, therefore it is essential to choose the correct tire for your towing application. In general, trailer tires have the same load range (or ply) from bead to bead and are bias ply construction. This allows for a stiffer side wall which provides safer towing by helping to reduce trailer sway problems. The use of 'Passenger Car' (P) or 'Light Truck (LT) tires a on a trailer is not recommended because their construction, usually radial or bias belted, allows for more flexible side walls. This could lead to increased trailer sway and loss of control. --- snip --- All tires should be the same size. Unmatched tire sizes guarantees uneven tire loading, which may mean at least one overloaded tire. The trailer's dynamics and stability can be adversely Affected by mismatched tires as well. Likewise, mixing bias-ply with radial-- ply, for example, may lead to handling problems. Of course, there are contingencies where the only spare may be a mismatch. If at all possible, wait for the proper replacement tire to be brought to the trailer. Failing that, use a mismatched spare like the mini-spare in a car. Limit speed to 35 mph or less, and keep the mileage as low as possible. ...RickM...
Northern Tool
Northern Tool stores carry trailer spare wheels with tires in both galvanized and painted versions. $70-$100. Not too bad considering how many dollars you are putting at risk if a wheel or tire fails. I have also found trailer spare wheels and tires at the super WalMart stores, but not as many sizes as Northern.
Northern Tool stores carry trailer spare wheels with tires in both galvanized and painted versions. $70-$100. Not too bad considering how many dollars you are putting at risk if a wheel or tire fails. I have also found trailer spare wheels and tires at the super WalMart stores, but not as many sizes as Northern.
A "donut spare"?????You've got to be kidding...
I guess that would work if you're talking bout a smaller size boat. But my catalina 22 and trailer are real close to 3k lbs and I wouldn't even think of one of those little tires. Not to mention the lean on the trailer that would be happening, that would be putting most of the weight on that side of the trailer...no way...If you have a west marine nearby, they sell tires and rims for sale. Not all that expensive either. The tires already mounted on the wheel. you would have to take it somewhere to get it balanced tho.. good luck..
I guess that would work if you're talking bout a smaller size boat. But my catalina 22 and trailer are real close to 3k lbs and I wouldn't even think of one of those little tires. Not to mention the lean on the trailer that would be happening, that would be putting most of the weight on that side of the trailer...no way...If you have a west marine nearby, they sell tires and rims for sale. Not all that expensive either. The tires already mounted on the wheel. you would have to take it somewhere to get it balanced tho.. good luck..
Car Tires
Reading most of the previous threads you would get the idea that using anything but a trailer tire on a trailer is a recipe for instant disaster. I would just like to point out that most of the objections to using car, truck or donut tires can also be applied to using car, truck and donut tires on cars and trucks. One of the biggest differences between car and truck and trailer tires is in the sidewall construction. Trailers with tandem axles drag one the tires sideways during turns. Trailer tires are stronger to resist this stress. For a single axle, an auto or truck tire will work OK. There are some problems with an auto tire. They tend to be at lower pressure and there will be somewhat increased rolling resistance. Sway should not be a problem unless you are getting a lot of unwanted sway in your car. I am not sure about donut tires. They are constructed to withstand a load at least as much as the tires it is replacing, but for a shorter distance. I am not sure about the increased weight on the tire because of load shifts, but this can probably be calculated. I will make an attempt at this.
Reading most of the previous threads you would get the idea that using anything but a trailer tire on a trailer is a recipe for instant disaster. I would just like to point out that most of the objections to using car, truck or donut tires can also be applied to using car, truck and donut tires on cars and trucks. One of the biggest differences between car and truck and trailer tires is in the sidewall construction. Trailers with tandem axles drag one the tires sideways during turns. Trailer tires are stronger to resist this stress. For a single axle, an auto or truck tire will work OK. There are some problems with an auto tire. They tend to be at lower pressure and there will be somewhat increased rolling resistance. Sway should not be a problem unless you are getting a lot of unwanted sway in your car. I am not sure about donut tires. They are constructed to withstand a load at least as much as the tires it is replacing, but for a shorter distance. I am not sure about the increased weight on the tire because of load shifts, but this can probably be calculated. I will make an attempt at this.
My Calculations
I made the following calculations based on my MAC 23. The weight on the single axle is about 2500 pounds. The distance between the center of the wheels is 90". Looking at the front of the boat on the trailer, I estimate the center of gravity is 43" above the ground, possibly lower. I measured the only vehicle I have with a donut spare. The donut spare is 6" smaller in diameter or 3' smaller in radius than the regular wheels. According to my calculations the weight distribution would be 1291 pounds on the side with the donut wheel and 1209 pounds on the side with the regular wheel. In other words the donut tire is carrying 41 more pounds than the 1250 pounds the regular tire would have been carrying. To me that is not a lot of difference. Making a hard turn would make that more significant as would a crowned highway. If I used a donut, I would change it as soon as possible and keep my speed low. It would be for emergencies only. If a donut tire was used on a tandem trailer, I would be more concerned with the other tire on the same side as the donut tire. There is an equalizer bar between the axles on each side of the trailer. This is supposed to equalize the load between the wheels. However, it does not completely equalize the load. There will be a lot more load on the tire which is on the same side as the donut. With a 3" smaller radius, that is almost the same as having no pressure in a regular tire and the other tire on that side will be carrying almost the entire load. Very frequently with low tire pressure on a trailer with a tandem axle, the other tire on that side is damaged from the increased load. I would not use a donut tire on a tandem axle. I would be willing to use it in an emergency on a single axle for short distances.
I made the following calculations based on my MAC 23. The weight on the single axle is about 2500 pounds. The distance between the center of the wheels is 90". Looking at the front of the boat on the trailer, I estimate the center of gravity is 43" above the ground, possibly lower. I measured the only vehicle I have with a donut spare. The donut spare is 6" smaller in diameter or 3' smaller in radius than the regular wheels. According to my calculations the weight distribution would be 1291 pounds on the side with the donut wheel and 1209 pounds on the side with the regular wheel. In other words the donut tire is carrying 41 more pounds than the 1250 pounds the regular tire would have been carrying. To me that is not a lot of difference. Making a hard turn would make that more significant as would a crowned highway. If I used a donut, I would change it as soon as possible and keep my speed low. It would be for emergencies only. If a donut tire was used on a tandem trailer, I would be more concerned with the other tire on the same side as the donut tire. There is an equalizer bar between the axles on each side of the trailer. This is supposed to equalize the load between the wheels. However, it does not completely equalize the load. There will be a lot more load on the tire which is on the same side as the donut. With a 3" smaller radius, that is almost the same as having no pressure in a regular tire and the other tire on that side will be carrying almost the entire load. Very frequently with low tire pressure on a trailer with a tandem axle, the other tire on that side is damaged from the increased load. I would not use a donut tire on a tandem axle. I would be willing to use it in an emergency on a single axle for short distances.
If you're using a donut tire for short distances,,
what do you use after you've used up that short distance. Theres a reason trucks and trailers don't use them.. As for calculations..I've got other things to do. But, since you bring it up, once you've lost your so called center of gravity, you now have more than just a few pounds added to that side of the trailer. you forgot to add the weight of the trailer, plus the fact that now you have even more downforce from the boat itself bearing down on that spare. Everything has now shifted over to that side, whether it be 3 inches or 10, there is more than just a few more pounds added. When using those little tires for your car, again figuring on slowing down and reducing speed,but also you usually have a pretty sophisticated way of that tire to absorb the bumps and such in the road.Not to mention there are three other tires helping out. A trailer or most that i've seen have leaf springs,period. Not the best in road absorbtion,but for a trailer and a boat, it's good enough. Unless someone is riding in it. I would hope not tho. Again, if I had a smaller boat and trailer I don't think I'd leave out one of those donut tires as an alternative,like someone stole my spare off the trailer or something like that, then I'd consider it and I'd drive like my grandmother down the hwy. But you can pick up a used spare wheel and tire for the same amount of money. Still a car tire isnt what you want but at least its a better choice for your trailer. As long as it's a spare only. If a donut tire works for you then go for it. If thats what you want as a spare. You all have a Happy Fourth of July, and Fair Winds. Hope someone got to go sailing.....:0)
what do you use after you've used up that short distance. Theres a reason trucks and trailers don't use them.. As for calculations..I've got other things to do. But, since you bring it up, once you've lost your so called center of gravity, you now have more than just a few pounds added to that side of the trailer. you forgot to add the weight of the trailer, plus the fact that now you have even more downforce from the boat itself bearing down on that spare. Everything has now shifted over to that side, whether it be 3 inches or 10, there is more than just a few more pounds added. When using those little tires for your car, again figuring on slowing down and reducing speed,but also you usually have a pretty sophisticated way of that tire to absorb the bumps and such in the road.Not to mention there are three other tires helping out. A trailer or most that i've seen have leaf springs,period. Not the best in road absorbtion,but for a trailer and a boat, it's good enough. Unless someone is riding in it. I would hope not tho. Again, if I had a smaller boat and trailer I don't think I'd leave out one of those donut tires as an alternative,like someone stole my spare off the trailer or something like that, then I'd consider it and I'd drive like my grandmother down the hwy. But you can pick up a used spare wheel and tire for the same amount of money. Still a car tire isnt what you want but at least its a better choice for your trailer. As long as it's a spare only. If a donut tire works for you then go for it. If thats what you want as a spare. You all have a Happy Fourth of July, and Fair Winds. Hope someone got to go sailing.....:0)
More Info
To answer one point at a time. You use the donut wheel on the trailer just like you do in a car. You drive at a lower speed and get the regular tire fixed as soon as possible. You don't drive it until the tires are worn out. I didn't forget any weight shift, because there is no weight shift. The center of gravity shifted relative to the wheels. The calculations were based on that shift. I was concerned that the lowering of that side would cause the spring to sag and add a little more tilt. I jacked up one side of the trailer about four inches. I checked to see if the springs depressed on the other side. I could find no depression. However, it might be worthwhile to move any load you can to the other side of the trailer. I didn't forget the weight of the trailer. That was included in the 2500 pounds. 2000 pounds of boat plus 500 pounds of trailer. I might be off a hundred or or a few, but that does not change the conclusion. I personally do not use a donut sprare for the trailer. Someone suggested that possibility and I commented on it. I made some calculations. Based on the those calculations, I concluded it would work for a short distance, just like the owners manual says for a car. I also said I would not use them on a tandem trailer. As for using a car tire for a trailer, it can be used on a single axle trailer if it meets the load requirements. Just think of the two rear wheels of your front wheel drive car. The trailer is subjecting the wheels/tires to no more stress than the rear wheels/tires of you car.
To answer one point at a time. You use the donut wheel on the trailer just like you do in a car. You drive at a lower speed and get the regular tire fixed as soon as possible. You don't drive it until the tires are worn out. I didn't forget any weight shift, because there is no weight shift. The center of gravity shifted relative to the wheels. The calculations were based on that shift. I was concerned that the lowering of that side would cause the spring to sag and add a little more tilt. I jacked up one side of the trailer about four inches. I checked to see if the springs depressed on the other side. I could find no depression. However, it might be worthwhile to move any load you can to the other side of the trailer. I didn't forget the weight of the trailer. That was included in the 2500 pounds. 2000 pounds of boat plus 500 pounds of trailer. I might be off a hundred or or a few, but that does not change the conclusion. I personally do not use a donut sprare for the trailer. Someone suggested that possibility and I commented on it. I made some calculations. Based on the those calculations, I concluded it would work for a short distance, just like the owners manual says for a car. I also said I would not use them on a tandem trailer. As for using a car tire for a trailer, it can be used on a single axle trailer if it meets the load requirements. Just think of the two rear wheels of your front wheel drive car. The trailer is subjecting the wheels/tires to no more stress than the rear wheels/tires of you car.
Actually...
Dan, the forces on a trailer tire aren't quite the same as those on an automobile tire. Tires built for trailering have stronger sidewalls to resist the inevitable swaying that a trailer will do, even though it may be imperceptible to the occupants of the car. Though lots of people do use car tires on their trailers, they are taking a gamble on this aspect of towing. I have heard of car tires coming apart, not at the tread, but in the sidewall area, when used for trailering. If the requirements for a trailer tire were the same as those for a car tire, you can bet they would be made the same (cheaper for the manufacturer). They are not. Also, I have heard experienced folks say not to use radials for trailer tires, though I know of no problems with them. However, they do tend to 'sag' more than bias ply tires and will generally start dry rotting more readily in the sag areas of the sidewall. A good argument for moving the trailer a little every so often, even when not using it.
Dan, the forces on a trailer tire aren't quite the same as those on an automobile tire. Tires built for trailering have stronger sidewalls to resist the inevitable swaying that a trailer will do, even though it may be imperceptible to the occupants of the car. Though lots of people do use car tires on their trailers, they are taking a gamble on this aspect of towing. I have heard of car tires coming apart, not at the tread, but in the sidewall area, when used for trailering. If the requirements for a trailer tire were the same as those for a car tire, you can bet they would be made the same (cheaper for the manufacturer). They are not. Also, I have heard experienced folks say not to use radials for trailer tires, though I know of no problems with them. However, they do tend to 'sag' more than bias ply tires and will generally start dry rotting more readily in the sag areas of the sidewall. A good argument for moving the trailer a little every so often, even when not using it.
Can't Arugue withThat
However, you don't want sway in your auto either. The auto tires are also designed to resist side forces. If nothing else the tires on my car probably experience more stress. I tend to corner faster in my car than I ever would pulling a trailer. I have towed trailers with both auto tires and trailer tires. Most of them have been with trailer tires. The only failures, blowouts, have been with trailer tires. I suspect that many of the problems with using an auto tire is that the tire was used to start with. As far as car tires being cheaper, I suspect it has more to do with the number sold, than comparible manufacturing costs. In some remote areas you cannot buy trailer tires becaue it is not worthwhile stocking them. I blew out a tire in a remote part of New Mexico. I put on the spare, but I didn't want to go any further without another spare. There was no place to buy a trailer tire within a hundred miles. I finally ended up buying an under sized auto tire as a spare, hoping I would never have to use it.
However, you don't want sway in your auto either. The auto tires are also designed to resist side forces. If nothing else the tires on my car probably experience more stress. I tend to corner faster in my car than I ever would pulling a trailer. I have towed trailers with both auto tires and trailer tires. Most of them have been with trailer tires. The only failures, blowouts, have been with trailer tires. I suspect that many of the problems with using an auto tire is that the tire was used to start with. As far as car tires being cheaper, I suspect it has more to do with the number sold, than comparible manufacturing costs. In some remote areas you cannot buy trailer tires becaue it is not worthwhile stocking them. I blew out a tire in a remote part of New Mexico. I put on the spare, but I didn't want to go any further without another spare. There was no place to buy a trailer tire within a hundred miles. I finally ended up buying an under sized auto tire as a spare, hoping I would never have to use it.
Wheel bearings !
Yea, I know your interested in a wheel and tire but you should think about having an extra wheel "hub and set of bearings'. After my boat (170)and trailer sat for the winter months I inspected my bearings only to discover one set was shot after only one season of sailing. I was planning a trip that was going to be about 150 miles, good thing I checked the wheel bearings. I replace and repacked the wheel bearings and bought a spare hub and bearings as a spare "just in case". What do you think your chances are of getting roadside assistance that will be able to find your particular part and be able to get you back on the road without having to tow you into town $$$ .......? Don,t for get your wheel bearing grease and scissor jack !
Yea, I know your interested in a wheel and tire but you should think about having an extra wheel "hub and set of bearings'. After my boat (170)and trailer sat for the winter months I inspected my bearings only to discover one set was shot after only one season of sailing. I was planning a trip that was going to be about 150 miles, good thing I checked the wheel bearings. I replace and repacked the wheel bearings and bought a spare hub and bearings as a spare "just in case". What do you think your chances are of getting roadside assistance that will be able to find your particular part and be able to get you back on the road without having to tow you into town $$$ .......? Don,t for get your wheel bearing grease and scissor jack !
Too funny.... so then we agree,,, you really don't
to use a donut tire for a spare...if at all possible..sorry you had to actually go out and jack up the trailer. Anyways Jerry, to answer your question, I only know of West Marine, like I posted earlier. I've heard of Wal Mart having them amongst other places. I got the galvanized ones, only cuz they were recommended from another board. And I live pretty close to the ocean. I believe the tire I got was around 70 dollars for both tire and wheel. Fair Winds everyone.....
to use a donut tire for a spare...if at all possible..sorry you had to actually go out and jack up the trailer. Anyways Jerry, to answer your question, I only know of West Marine, like I posted earlier. I've heard of Wal Mart having them amongst other places. I got the galvanized ones, only cuz they were recommended from another board. And I live pretty close to the ocean. I believe the tire I got was around 70 dollars for both tire and wheel. Fair Winds everyone.....
- Status