Spades &. Quick Connect terminals

[Maine Sail]

Hi All,

I just posted a new article on MarineHowto.com and it may be of interest:

https://marinehowto.com/spade-quick-connect-terminals/


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[Parsons]

Thanks @Maine Sail - good to see you writing again and sharing your knowledge.

I am not an electrician, not even playing one on TV, but I do have to maintain stuff on my boat. I really like quick-connectors like bullets and blades because I have to replace things occasionally. The article mentions that ABYC only allows them on circuits of under 20 amps, which is 95% of my living space stuff - LED lights, DC fans, etc. Am I taking terrible chances in connecting my fan to the fan circuit with a blade connection properly crimped? Soldering and shrink wrapping or butt-spicing seems like overkill, particularly as DC fans fail every other year.

 

[Maine Sail]

Thanks @Maine Sail - good to see you writing again and sharing your knowledge.

I am not an electrician, not even playing one on TV, but I do have to maintain stuff on my boat. I really like quick-connectors like bullets and blades because I have to replace things occasionally. The article mentions that ABYC only allows them on circuits of under 20 amps, which is 95% of my living space stuff - LED lights, DC fans, etc. Am I taking terrible chances in connecting my fan to the fan circuit with a blade connection properly crimped? Soldering and shrink wrapping or butt-spicing seems like overkill, particularly as DC fans fail every other year.

As long as you are using quality terminals such as Molex or AMP they can be ok. They are still not the most dependable terminals but occasionally they can't be avoided. and especially don't use them to connect disconnect more than 1-3 times...

 

[Maine Sail]

Thanks @Maine Sail - good to see you writing again and sharing your knowledge.

I am not an electrician, not even playing one on TV, but I do have to maintain stuff on my boat. I really like quick-connectors like bullets and blades because I have to replace things occasionally. The article mentions that ABYC only allows them on circuits of under 20 amps, which is 95% of my living space stuff - LED lights, DC fans, etc. Am I taking terrible chances in connecting my fan to the fan circuit with a blade connection properly crimped? Soldering and shrink wrapping or butt-spicing seems like overkill, particularly as DC fans fail every other year.

As long as you are using quality terminals such as Molex or AMP they can be ok. They are still not the most dependable terminals but occasionally they can't be avoided. Just don't use them to connect disconnect more than 1-3 times, they degrade with each cycle.....

 

[SailingCal21]

I try to avoid, but sometimes it just can't be helped. For my bilge pump and switch wiring I use waterproof wire nuts. The lead in wires have been clipped so many times they are getting a bit short

 

[kappykaplan]

For my bilge pump and switch wiring I use waterproof wire nuts.

It's been said before on this site, wire nuts have no place on a boat.

 

[Carmelmike]

Thanks for the article. Ring connectors and terminal blocks for my wiring, and if the bilge pump needs to be replaced, the new noe will just go back on the same terminal strip (or whatever a block of isolated #8 screws is called...)

Your articles and knowledge are a wonderful asset to the world of boating. Thank you!

 

[RitSim]

So related to the use of quick connect or even terminal blocks in wet places-- does silicone grease help or hurt?

 

[Parsons]

Personally, for any wet areas (most places on a boat), I use Ancor heat-shrink fittings (Heat Shrink) which seal pretty well between the terminal points. Pretty well meaning that they are waterproof when you put them on and in damp conditions, but not submergible.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

does silicone grease help or hurt?

I've taken to applying synthetic grease to electrical contact points. The grease prevents corrosion. Mind you, it also collects dirt in dirty locations. Take your pick.