Sound Insulation

[Coriolisbc]

So, I paid the $, purchased 2 types of sound Insulation materials and finished the install today. I used Dynamat, which is primarily an Automotive product, but is nice and thin, and the 1/2 inch foam product from West Marine, both came in 12 sq. foot quantities which was perfect for the C 30.
Notice the hi tech rollers, and the equally hi tech compression techniques used.
Fired up the engine after install, the results are;
most of the clatter from the valve train is gone
all of the high frequency noises have been supressed
low frequency noises, transmitted through the engine mounts, and hull are still there.
I left cut outs where the Insulation would have been too close to the exhaust, and to the fuel injector rack.
Total cost with taxes, about $250.

 

[Bad Obsession]

That is a good idea and a great project. I wonder if it will help reduce the heat that builds in the cabin when you run the engine on a hot day. Nothing like powering for 6 hours on a hot day and anchoring in an anchorage with no wind and having the heat from the engine escape into the cabin!

Any way you can take some pictures from the inside so we can see how you did the other parts of the insulation.

 

[Coriolisbc]

That is a good idea and a great project. I wonder if it will help reduce the heat that builds in the cabin when you run the engine on a hot day. Nothing like powering for 6 hours on a hot day and anchoring in an anchorage with no wind and having the heat from the engine escape into the cabin!

Any way you can take some pictures from the inside so we can see how you did the other parts of the insulation.

Yes, it does keep the heat in the engine compartment, the inside air temp was 42 deg. F before starting the engine, and after a half hour it was still 42, when I opened the access door the heat came climbing out, an instant 2 deg rise in cabin air heat. I will take pics of the tricky inside parts of the install, I used cardboard to make templates, and the handle of a long screwdriver to press the material against the inside, oh yeah, last week I applied degreaser, rinsed, and let the engine bay dry thoroughly, the wood access panels and doors were cleaned, and lightly sanded before application.
Last summer the cabin was unbearably hot while motoring, I did the install so I could hear the radio better while motoring, the heat reduction is a side benefit, Another benefit is that the aluminum reflects light better, so you can see more detail on everything below, and it looks really clean now.

 

[jrowan]

I've been wanting to insulate my engine compartment too. Gosh, I didn't know that the insulation was so expensive. Was the amount just for insulating the engine, or did you cover other areas as well? I've also noticed that a lot of vibration & noise escapes from the hinged doors not closing tightly engough. I thought about using rubber weatherstripping to help seal in noise & heat. Do U think that the cheaper blue styrofoam insulation would work?

 

[Brad on Vashon]

Jrowan-- I read an article in Practical sailor just recently; regular old insulation has not energy absorbing qualities--sound is energy-- and the noise is high energy, so you need some thing with high density like the lead back foam. At least that's what PS said

 

[Coriolisbc]

Jrowan, the blue insulation is highly flammable, I would never use it near any heat source.
Brad is right, regular insulation has no energy absorbing qualities, that is what the heavy dynamat is good for, and it has aluminum to reflect both sound and heat.
I also used rubber weatherstripping around the door edges, you could start with that, that is relatively cheap.

 

[mortyd]

bad obsession, a little of topic but i have a nicro fan system intsalled in the main hatch and it does a really good job of cirulating air even with no electrcity except for its own solar powered battery, even at night.