Does anyone know a good way to launch a 1986 H23 w/ wing keel by one person? I need to figure out a safe and easy way of getting into the boat so I can take it off the trailer after I back down into the water. I have a full size p/u and the trailer is the orginal Hunter trailer. I was thinking of using a small ladder placed on the ramp next to the boat's side so I can climb up onto the boat. But then I would have more problems when it comes time to load the boat back onto the trailer at the end of the day. Any suggestions?
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Crazy Dave Condon
extension
get an extension made maybe 8-10 feet long so you do not have to bury your vehicle in the water. Also, do not disconnect the winch strap from the boat until the back end is in the water. Do make sure to disconnect your electrical. Crazy Dave Condon
get an extension made maybe 8-10 feet long so you do not have to bury your vehicle in the water. Also, do not disconnect the winch strap from the boat until the back end is in the water. Do make sure to disconnect your electrical. Crazy Dave Condon
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Bill O'Donovan
Easy does it
Make sure the tide is high enough that you can back up sufficiently so that the boat virtually floats off. Keep the bowline attached to the trailer and then untie it for re-tying at the dock. You will make this look so effortless that others will envy your experience.
Make sure the tide is high enough that you can back up sufficiently so that the boat virtually floats off. Keep the bowline attached to the trailer and then untie it for re-tying at the dock. You will make this look so effortless that others will envy your experience.
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Mark Price
Ladder on tongue
Some of the newer H240 and 260 trailers have a step ladder welded to the tongue of the trailer. If you have one added you might need to move the winch/bow stop forward to give you enough room to climb the ladder. An extention as Dave noted is a great thing to have.
Some of the newer H240 and 260 trailers have a step ladder welded to the tongue of the trailer. If you have one added you might need to move the winch/bow stop forward to give you enough room to climb the ladder. An extention as Dave noted is a great thing to have.
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Terry
Sounds like a good idea but....
the trailer is galvenized. Does Hunter sell the ladder as a bolt-on part instead? Or should I just try to "think-a-vent" a way to mount a ladder onto the trailer?
the trailer is galvenized. Does Hunter sell the ladder as a bolt-on part instead? Or should I just try to "think-a-vent" a way to mount a ladder onto the trailer?
Here's what I do
This method requires two dock lines, and good brakes or wheel chocks for the tow vehicle, because you have to get out a couple of times. I learned it from the guys working at the first marina where my boat was kept. Tie the dock lines at bow and stern on the side of the boat facing the dock. Hang fenders on the boat if needed and disconnect the towing strap from the bow. Back the trailer into the water (try to stay close to the dock) until the stern just starts to float (you should feel the boat move on the trailer slightly). Set the truck brakes, get out (chock under the front tires if needed), go up on the dock and secure the two lines on the nearest cleats on the dock. Make sure to leave a little slack. Now back the boat the rest of the way in until it just floats (you will see the bow fall in the rear view mirror). Set the brake again, go up on the dock and use the dock lines to move the boat back away from the trailer. YOur feet will get wet but you won't have to get on the boat at all. When retrieving the boat, back the trailer in until the water level is at the mark on the trailer that you made when you launched the boat. Pull the boat into position using the docklines, tie off on the dock and haul the boat out. It's a little tricky with the wind, but if use the downwind side of the dock you should be fine. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
This method requires two dock lines, and good brakes or wheel chocks for the tow vehicle, because you have to get out a couple of times. I learned it from the guys working at the first marina where my boat was kept. Tie the dock lines at bow and stern on the side of the boat facing the dock. Hang fenders on the boat if needed and disconnect the towing strap from the bow. Back the trailer into the water (try to stay close to the dock) until the stern just starts to float (you should feel the boat move on the trailer slightly). Set the truck brakes, get out (chock under the front tires if needed), go up on the dock and secure the two lines on the nearest cleats on the dock. Make sure to leave a little slack. Now back the boat the rest of the way in until it just floats (you will see the bow fall in the rear view mirror). Set the brake again, go up on the dock and use the dock lines to move the boat back away from the trailer. YOur feet will get wet but you won't have to get on the boat at all. When retrieving the boat, back the trailer in until the water level is at the mark on the trailer that you made when you launched the boat. Pull the boat into position using the docklines, tie off on the dock and haul the boat out. It's a little tricky with the wind, but if use the downwind side of the dock you should be fine. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Joe R., SV Skooky 2 H240
You don't need to get into the boat
The secret is a 100 ft painter. This is the line you attach to the hook that your trailer was using until ready to launch. Get the boat and trailer partiall into the water. The extra length line can be run around your guide poles and T-I-E-D to the dock. Then back the trailer into the water and gently hit the brake to launch the boat which floats straight back off the trailer. Too much speed is NOT A GOOD IDEA. The technique works great and the long painter helps you position the boat back on the trailer when you are ready to leave. I use inexpensive yellow floating nylon ski rope with a metal hook on the end. Let me know what you think! Joe
The secret is a 100 ft painter. This is the line you attach to the hook that your trailer was using until ready to launch. Get the boat and trailer partiall into the water. The extra length line can be run around your guide poles and T-I-E-D to the dock. Then back the trailer into the water and gently hit the brake to launch the boat which floats straight back off the trailer. Too much speed is NOT A GOOD IDEA. The technique works great and the long painter helps you position the boat back on the trailer when you are ready to leave. I use inexpensive yellow floating nylon ski rope with a metal hook on the end. Let me know what you think! Joe
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Chuck
More launching/retriving techniques
Terry (all) I've found the the other tricky issue, especially retriving the boat, is keeping the boat aligned to properly crank it up on the traier. I use the (or have someone else) boathook to allow me to push the boat stern away from the dock when needed. Pulling the boat would seem to me to be the hardest to do solo. /Chuck SV "windsongs" H23
Terry (all) I've found the the other tricky issue, especially retriving the boat, is keeping the boat aligned to properly crank it up on the traier. I use the (or have someone else) boathook to allow me to push the boat stern away from the dock when needed. Pulling the boat would seem to me to be the hardest to do solo. /Chuck SV "windsongs" H23
V-guide
I used 2x4's to built a V-shaped guide to center the keel on the trailer and keep it there while the boat is floating. It looks ugly but it works. If I go out to the boatyard this weekend, I'll take some pictures and post them. Peter H23 "Raven"
I used 2x4's to built a V-shaped guide to center the keel on the trailer and keep it there while the boat is floating. It looks ugly but it works. If I go out to the boatyard this weekend, I'll take some pictures and post them. Peter H23 "Raven"
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