I'm looking in the 1970s 27' range and am appalled by the many references to soft decks and related problems. I had this problem on a Pearson 26 and don't want it again. I've heard that Bristols have solid decks. Are there other boats that do, or others that have deck cores but are trouble free? Are blisters pretty much an 80s thing? Thanks.
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Perfect (!?!) Decks
Tom Blisters are not an 80's thing. They are a direct result of the 60's, too many people working with too much to sniff. In the real world, people either take care of their boats or they don't. Sure hope you can find one with a PO who DID take care. We're not all that appalled...stuff happens if neglected.
Tom Blisters are not an 80's thing. They are a direct result of the 60's, too many people working with too much to sniff. In the real world, people either take care of their boats or they don't. Sure hope you can find one with a PO who DID take care. We're not all that appalled...stuff happens if neglected.
Fiberglass boats are perfect, except for...
... soft decks and blistered hulls! To become less appalled, try to find a car from the 70s that's still running and doesn't have any rust. Better yet, try to find a wooden boat that's 30 years old and still floating. Frozen snot is the way to go. Some say that boats made today will blister less than their progenitors, because the resins are better. I'll believe it when I see it, but it sounds plausible. Cored decks are a different story. I'm not sure I'd want a boat with a solid GRP deck, that is a lot of weight above the waterline. Of course, a solid deck would improve the CSF
If you're looking to buy a 30-yo boat, you're going to have to deal with problems like this, unless you buy something that has already been completely and competently restored. Good luck, and look for something newer if you're not into mixing resin. Paul sv Escape Artist h336
... soft decks and blistered hulls! To become less appalled, try to find a car from the 70s that's still running and doesn't have any rust. Better yet, try to find a wooden boat that's 30 years old and still floating. Frozen snot is the way to go. Some say that boats made today will blister less than their progenitors, because the resins are better. I'll believe it when I see it, but it sounds plausible. Cored decks are a different story. I'm not sure I'd want a boat with a solid GRP deck, that is a lot of weight above the waterline. Of course, a solid deck would improve the CSF
If you're looking to buy a 30-yo boat, you're going to have to deal with problems like this, unless you buy something that has already been completely and competently restored. Good luck, and look for something newer if you're not into mixing resin. Paul sv Escape Artist h336Solid Deck
The Pearson Triton was made with a solid fiberglass decks on the West Coast. They can be recognized because they also had fiberglass cockpit combings instead of wood. They also carried more ballast. Very few made this way.
The Pearson Triton was made with a solid fiberglass decks on the West Coast. They can be recognized because they also had fiberglass cockpit combings instead of wood. They also carried more ballast. Very few made this way.
air-ex foam cored decks
Lecomte built a 33' Medalist and 38' Northeast with air-ex foam cored decks in the 60s. Light weight and nothing to absorb water. Other mfgrs also used air-ex but it was an expensive method of construction.
Lecomte built a 33' Medalist and 38' Northeast with air-ex foam cored decks in the 60s. Light weight and nothing to absorb water. Other mfgrs also used air-ex but it was an expensive method of construction.
26X
The newer, post-1999, MacGregor 26X's have a corrugated fibreglass liner inside their decks. Makes the cabin roof solid without the extra weight and doesn't rot.
The newer, post-1999, MacGregor 26X's have a corrugated fibreglass liner inside their decks. Makes the cabin roof solid without the extra weight and doesn't rot.
Balsa coring
You can also look for boats with balsa coring. They're typically laid up in blocks so if one small block rots, the rest around it won't do the same. It's the plywood decks that see trouble. Good luck in your quest! LaDonna
You can also look for boats with balsa coring. They're typically laid up in blocks so if one small block rots, the rest around it won't do the same. It's the plywood decks that see trouble. Good luck in your quest! LaDonna
Cored Decks are Better
They give stiffness without the weight simple fiberblass requires. Remember, we are talking about a 9 to 12 foot arch here! Yes, after 20 years, it's common to find some deterioration. But it's a small price to pay for having the design you want, and a great sail at a very good price. (Our '77 h27 was priced at $9,000.) Yes, I put about a thousand a year into maintenance and improvements, but I'll bet that number is low, even for a new boat. I have repaired a collapsed balsa sandwich at the mast step, and can see that the previous owner rebedded some chain plates. But I would buy a cored deck again in a minute over a heavy, or flexing deck of solid fiberglass. David Lady Lillie
They give stiffness without the weight simple fiberblass requires. Remember, we are talking about a 9 to 12 foot arch here! Yes, after 20 years, it's common to find some deterioration. But it's a small price to pay for having the design you want, and a great sail at a very good price. (Our '77 h27 was priced at $9,000.) Yes, I put about a thousand a year into maintenance and improvements, but I'll bet that number is low, even for a new boat. I have repaired a collapsed balsa sandwich at the mast step, and can see that the previous owner rebedded some chain plates. But I would buy a cored deck again in a minute over a heavy, or flexing deck of solid fiberglass. David Lady Lillie
Cored decks yes. Cored hulls...maybe no
If you ever get holed or hull damage, no matter how big or small, that cored hull will be a liability. There is a better than average chance that it will suck up water like a sponge,(some coring is better than others) where a solid hull won't.So if I was in a "world cruiser" and had planned to go to remote areas where quality workmanship is hard to find then I would go to a solid glass hull (below the waterline at least). A good reference and book that shows some pictures & talks about this is Calders "Cruising Handbook" And try getting that cored hull repaired correctly, I doubt you could without losing an arm and a leg and in remote areas, you probably couldn't even find anyone that could do it properly. But above the waterline I think I would really want cored. No reason to want that much weight up high.
If you ever get holed or hull damage, no matter how big or small, that cored hull will be a liability. There is a better than average chance that it will suck up water like a sponge,(some coring is better than others) where a solid hull won't.So if I was in a "world cruiser" and had planned to go to remote areas where quality workmanship is hard to find then I would go to a solid glass hull (below the waterline at least). A good reference and book that shows some pictures & talks about this is Calders "Cruising Handbook" And try getting that cored hull repaired correctly, I doubt you could without losing an arm and a leg and in remote areas, you probably couldn't even find anyone that could do it properly. But above the waterline I think I would really want cored. No reason to want that much weight up high.
Core
Sabre hulls are cored from the waterline down for added strength. End grain balsa blocks will absorb as much as plywood. Some manufacturers use it because of its light weight with strength. The above info is from Sabre customer service dept.
Sabre hulls are cored from the waterline down for added strength. End grain balsa blocks will absorb as much as plywood. Some manufacturers use it because of its light weight with strength. The above info is from Sabre customer service dept.
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