Solar vent installation in acrylic/lexan hatch?
- Thread starter Clark
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I used butyl tape. I have had the foam gaskets that come with them eventually leak but they do work for a while..
Silicone
I used silicone and the screws that came with the vent and did that on two boats including my now 2007 H-36 and never had a problem.
Nick
I used silicone and the screws that came with the vent and did that on two boats including my now 2007 H-36 and never had a problem.
Nick
Have had two on-board for nine years and they still do not leak. Used blue tape to cover the cut made by a 3' hole saw. Placed limetime caulk on the perimiter and pushed down the fitting. Reversed the bottom ring and used stainless screws to pull the whole thing together. I have one fan blade set to pull air in and the other fan blade set to pull air out.
Ian has the right idea...
in taping the cutting point with the blue masking tape. I've installed solar vents on at least three Lexan hatches using a scrolling jig saw to cut the hole out once a starting hole is drilled near the inside edge of the cut. The masking tape permits an almost chip-free cut and gives you a place to draw the cutting circle if you don't have the proper size hole saw (4 inchers are not cheap!). A fine tooth blade makes the cut go slow but gives the best results.
To seal the installation, clear silacone sealant was used. The units were bolted down with SS hardware and acorn nuts on the inside. The boat owners were instructed to pull and rebed the units every five years or if they leak at the seal (silacone is good, but not "permanent").
in taping the cutting point with the blue masking tape. I've installed solar vents on at least three Lexan hatches using a scrolling jig saw to cut the hole out once a starting hole is drilled near the inside edge of the cut. The masking tape permits an almost chip-free cut and gives you a place to draw the cutting circle if you don't have the proper size hole saw (4 inchers are not cheap!). A fine tooth blade makes the cut go slow but gives the best results.
To seal the installation, clear silacone sealant was used. The units were bolted down with SS hardware and acorn nuts on the inside. The boat owners were instructed to pull and rebed the units every five years or if they leak at the seal (silacone is good, but not "permanent").
Mainesail - You converted me to use butyl tape on most items above the waterline - is there any place you wouldn't use it? How about an inspection port in the sole of a cockpit or anchor locker? How about a anchor locker drain that exits the hull well above the waterline? How about a holding tank or fuel vent?
If you meant that you "tapped" (threaded) the Lexan, you probably didn't really want to do that- nor use wood-type screws into the lexan. The metal can expand at different rates than the lexan and either come loose or expand and crack the lexan. Better to slightly over-size the holes, then use machine screws and washers and locknuts on the inside.
I'd point out that you should probably chamfer/countersink any holes that you drilled in the lexan or acrylic. This will help prevent prevent stress cracks from starting at the holes.
Cast Acrylic...
Most of the hatches referred to in this discussion are made of cast acrylic not polycarbonate/Lexan. Most all hatches, with the exception of a couple Bomar models, and ports for that matter, that are made of plastic, are cast acrylic. Unless you have a cast aluminum 100 series Bomar, with the cross support bars, you likely have a cast acrylic hatch. Chamfering acrylic is a very good idea as it helps to minimize crazing and cracking just like it does with gelcoat. You'll want to drill all the way through acrylic and use nuts and washers. Tapping or screwing into it can cause it to crack. Replacing hatch glass is $$$...
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