Does anyone have experience wiring a solar panel to the 1, 2, both battery switch? I believe it should be connected to the common connection so as to charge both batteries,( and I intend to put a line fuse in after the charge controller also).by "common connection" I mean the one that also goes to the starter and alternator The solar panel is 10 watts and will just be used to keep 2 batteries up. It puts out .62 amps. My batteries are a 90 amp hr and a 80 amp hr. The contoller is rated at 7 amps and cuts in at 13 volts,and cuts out at 14.2 volts. Let me know what your experience has been with wiring a panel? Thanks,and fairwinds~~~~~~Pete "Eastern Sky" H280
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don robinson
hi pete
pete let me know how this works out for you Iam looking to do the same we stay out for 3 to 4 days at a time an I am all ways have to run the motor an gharge every thinf up on the #2 bat have been loking at solor or wind genator. drope me a line at seadogocoee@aol.com
pete let me know how this works out for you Iam looking to do the same we stay out for 3 to 4 days at a time an I am all ways have to run the motor an gharge every thinf up on the #2 bat have been loking at solor or wind genator. drope me a line at seadogocoee@aol.com
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Brent Headberg
I just added a 5w solar panel to my Hunter 335 and direct wired it to the batteries. The problem with connecting the panel to the common terminal of your 1/2/Both switch is that you'll have to leave your battery switch on to get the current to the batteries. I brought the positive lead of the solar panel into my battery compartment, split the positive lead and connected directly to each positive battery terminal. I connected the negative lead to the common ground of the batteries. Hope this helps, Brent Headberg S/V Elena Lua http://www.elenalua.homestead.com
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Tom Boles
Brent has the 98% solution
However, if you split the pos wire and connect to both batteries, you have rendered the 1-2-all-off switch inoperative. Both batteries will always be connected (by the wire from the solar panel) and will drain & be recharged together. I suggest that you connect the panel to just one battery directly. It will charge that battery full time. If you want to charge both batteries, put the switch to "all" and they will both charge from the solar panel. Since your panel is fairly modest, there is NO NEED for a regulator/controller. Just connect the panel to the battery directly. Cheers!
However, if you split the pos wire and connect to both batteries, you have rendered the 1-2-all-off switch inoperative. Both batteries will always be connected (by the wire from the solar panel) and will drain & be recharged together. I suggest that you connect the panel to just one battery directly. It will charge that battery full time. If you want to charge both batteries, put the switch to "all" and they will both charge from the solar panel. Since your panel is fairly modest, there is NO NEED for a regulator/controller. Just connect the panel to the battery directly. Cheers!
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Miles
Solar panel wiring...
If you connect the panel to the common post on the switch then you'll have to leave the switch "on" to charge. Also your house side wiring will be carrying current everytime the sun is out even if the battery switch is turned "off". Granted it's only 12-16 volts but still you might want some way to shut it off. If you connect the panel to both batteries with a split lead to both batteries then you will have essentially paralleled the batteries through the lead. Or maybe Brent has figured out a way around this? The problem is the batteries will always be connected through the solar panel wire so they can discharged each other and you can't select just one. It's also a pretty skinny wire to hook batteries together with... I considered both of these setups when I put my panel in. I ended up hooking the panel to just the #1 battery and then connecting them via the switch to charge. This also allows the full current to charge the #1 battery while #2 is held in reserve for starting when you're anchored out somewhere. The best solution is probably two panels but this seems to work pretty well.
If you connect the panel to the common post on the switch then you'll have to leave the switch "on" to charge. Also your house side wiring will be carrying current everytime the sun is out even if the battery switch is turned "off". Granted it's only 12-16 volts but still you might want some way to shut it off. If you connect the panel to both batteries with a split lead to both batteries then you will have essentially paralleled the batteries through the lead. Or maybe Brent has figured out a way around this? The problem is the batteries will always be connected through the solar panel wire so they can discharged each other and you can't select just one. It's also a pretty skinny wire to hook batteries together with... I considered both of these setups when I put my panel in. I ended up hooking the panel to just the #1 battery and then connecting them via the switch to charge. This also allows the full current to charge the #1 battery while #2 is held in reserve for starting when you're anchored out somewhere. The best solution is probably two panels but this seems to work pretty well.
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Pete Shaw
Thanks for the ideas
Appreciate the input and after reviewing the comments. Seeing the house battery is #2 battery,I may connect the panel to it,leave the switch in "Both" postion at mooring. When underway,I could leave switch on "Both",the alternator would charge some when motoring while solar panel continues to charge both while sailing, or motoring. As far as splitting the positive lead between both positive battery posts,I believe a diode in each lead would prevent backflow from one battery to the other? Just a thought. Pete
Appreciate the input and after reviewing the comments. Seeing the house battery is #2 battery,I may connect the panel to it,leave the switch in "Both" postion at mooring. When underway,I could leave switch on "Both",the alternator would charge some when motoring while solar panel continues to charge both while sailing, or motoring. As far as splitting the positive lead between both positive battery posts,I believe a diode in each lead would prevent backflow from one battery to the other? Just a thought. Pete
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Miles
I think you're right...
I think a diode might do the trick but the problem is the current loss through it would be significant. Maybe a switchbox that only parallels them while charging would work too. If you have an adjustable regulator you might want to play with it a bit, if it's fixed I agree with Tom: forget it. Overcharging with the panel isn't much of an issue since you only get a few hours of maximum output. My panel has been working great for a few years now, one of the few truly maintainance free items onboard!
I think a diode might do the trick but the problem is the current loss through it would be significant. Maybe a switchbox that only parallels them while charging would work too. If you have an adjustable regulator you might want to play with it a bit, if it's fixed I agree with Tom: forget it. Overcharging with the panel isn't much of an issue since you only get a few hours of maximum output. My panel has been working great for a few years now, one of the few truly maintainance free items onboard!
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Fred
Pete is correct
Pete is correct, a diode in the wire to the 2nd battery and another diode in the feed wire from the panel. Very very little lose from diode. Be certain the diodes face the correct direction.
Pete is correct, a diode in the wire to the 2nd battery and another diode in the feed wire from the panel. Very very little lose from diode. Be certain the diodes face the correct direction.
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