Ideas on where and how to mount solar panels. I placed a small solar panel on top of my out board. It's out of the way, not shaded, and won't get stepped on here.
Solar Panel Placement
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I think...
... that is a great idea. Do you sail and tow with the motor up? If so does that angle effect the panel's efficiency?
... that is a great idea. Do you sail and tow with the motor up? If so does that angle effect the panel's efficiency?
Panel position
I usually just pull the motor mount up, so the motor is still upright. But when sailing into the sun, I can tilt the motor up to get a better angle (90 degrees) to the sun. Sun on the beam, turn the engine to the side. It's not only out of the way, but the panel is closer to 90 degrees to the sun. I had an idea to mount the panel on a RAM mount so it could be positioned better, but at around $100 for the mount I just used a piece of marine ply and made my own mount.
I usually just pull the motor mount up, so the motor is still upright. But when sailing into the sun, I can tilt the motor up to get a better angle (90 degrees) to the sun. Sun on the beam, turn the engine to the side. It's not only out of the way, but the panel is closer to 90 degrees to the sun. I had an idea to mount the panel on a RAM mount so it could be positioned better, but at around $100 for the mount I just used a piece of marine ply and made my own mount.
I Like it!
I am currently(no pun intended) using a 3watt solar panel that plugs into a cigarett lighter type socket located just inside the companionway. I have been hanging it off the lifelines using a variety of home made hooks and a leg off of a cheap trypod to adjust the angle. I would have to rewire to use your idea, but I am going to give it some thought next time I take the boat out. I love simple solutions.
I am currently(no pun intended) using a 3watt solar panel that plugs into a cigarett lighter type socket located just inside the companionway. I have been hanging it off the lifelines using a variety of home made hooks and a leg off of a cheap trypod to adjust the angle. I would have to rewire to use your idea, but I am going to give it some thought next time I take the boat out. I love simple solutions.
2.5
The panel in the pic is a 2.5 watt. I have 2, 5 watt panels on my Bristol. It is tied into the same plug (perko) as the charging circuit from the motor. Most of my recharging comes from the motor, not the panel, but I'll take any help I can get as I don't like to use the motor. A 5 watt would fit and work well here too.
The panel in the pic is a 2.5 watt. I have 2, 5 watt panels on my Bristol. It is tied into the same plug (perko) as the charging circuit from the motor. Most of my recharging comes from the motor, not the panel, but I'll take any help I can get as I don't like to use the motor. A 5 watt would fit and work well here too.
I secure my solar panel...
I secure my solar panel for my V21 to the cabin hatch cover, Greg. While my boat is only sailed a couple of times a week, I have a removable panel that i "hang" on two beveled screws that are carefully placed and raised just enough for the panel to lock on. The panel came with a lighter plug (which I removed) and a mid-cable connection that I pull apart when I hang the unit back inside as the second half of the wiring is directly to my battery. While we often sail with the panel set up, the hatch cover is the dog's favorite spot to hang out when we're not in motion and it gets hung in the cabin out of the way when he's with us. 5 out of 7 days it's attached and keeping the battery up to snuff.
I secure my solar panel for my V21 to the cabin hatch cover, Greg. While my boat is only sailed a couple of times a week, I have a removable panel that i "hang" on two beveled screws that are carefully placed and raised just enough for the panel to lock on. The panel came with a lighter plug (which I removed) and a mid-cable connection that I pull apart when I hang the unit back inside as the second half of the wiring is directly to my battery. While we often sail with the panel set up, the hatch cover is the dog's favorite spot to hang out when we're not in motion and it gets hung in the cabin out of the way when he's with us. 5 out of 7 days it's attached and keeping the battery up to snuff.
near the dome sunlight on a 26C
I have a 26S and there is a little plastic dome "sunlight" just over the head area. I mounted the panel (20 watt) near this on the deck since I was able to run the wire though the plastic dome assembly without cutting up anything or damaging the water seal of the dome. Its not perfectly out of the way but overall no problem. I used a trailer tail light plug on the wires near the panel so that I can remove it for highway traveling (and you cant get the polarity wrong). My batteries are under the sink and the charge controller is also located in the same area (within about 1.5 foot of the batteries). I dont mess with the angle of the panel and seem to get plenty of power out of it. I dont even have the charger from my outboard hooked up.
I have a 26S and there is a little plastic dome "sunlight" just over the head area. I mounted the panel (20 watt) near this on the deck since I was able to run the wire though the plastic dome assembly without cutting up anything or damaging the water seal of the dome. Its not perfectly out of the way but overall no problem. I used a trailer tail light plug on the wires near the panel so that I can remove it for highway traveling (and you cant get the polarity wrong). My batteries are under the sink and the charge controller is also located in the same area (within about 1.5 foot of the batteries). I dont mess with the angle of the panel and seem to get plenty of power out of it. I dont even have the charger from my outboard hooked up.
20 Watt
I'd guess not, with a 20 watt panel. The 2, 5 watt panels on the bristol only keep up with the auto pilot. The 1, 2.5 watt panel on the Vn 23 is to keep the batteries fresh and put a few amps back in, incase the bielge pump would have to get rid of some rain water. It's a low enough wattage so I don't need a voltage regulator/charge controller. When the boat sets, it sets for weeks unchecked. When I use it I go out for 10 or more days at a time. Solar just won't keep up. The boat is too small for a wind generator, or a real fixed generator. I do have one of those little portable 1000 watt 2 cycle generators, but the engine use is where most of my power comes from. I use very little power while out. I have oil and candle lanterns for the cabin, plus flash lights. For sailing I have an LED Tri color, can't get much more power stingy than that, unless I would go back to oil powered Nav lights. I do use an oil anchor light, when at anchor at night. But that is rare for me. For long distance sailing I end up sailing through the night. When in port I'm in an anchorage, so no lights needed. When I am running the Nav lights (side red, green and allround white) at night, then the engine is on, so it more than provides the power for the lights and a little charge for the batteries at the same time. Using an all round white, instead of a stern sail white combined with a mast mounted steaming light, saves 5 watts, and gives some light in the cockpit too.
I'd guess not, with a 20 watt panel. The 2, 5 watt panels on the bristol only keep up with the auto pilot. The 1, 2.5 watt panel on the Vn 23 is to keep the batteries fresh and put a few amps back in, incase the bielge pump would have to get rid of some rain water. It's a low enough wattage so I don't need a voltage regulator/charge controller. When the boat sets, it sets for weeks unchecked. When I use it I go out for 10 or more days at a time. Solar just won't keep up. The boat is too small for a wind generator, or a real fixed generator. I do have one of those little portable 1000 watt 2 cycle generators, but the engine use is where most of my power comes from. I use very little power while out. I have oil and candle lanterns for the cabin, plus flash lights. For sailing I have an LED Tri color, can't get much more power stingy than that, unless I would go back to oil powered Nav lights. I do use an oil anchor light, when at anchor at night. But that is rare for me. For long distance sailing I end up sailing through the night. When in port I'm in an anchorage, so no lights needed. When I am running the Nav lights (side red, green and allround white) at night, then the engine is on, so it more than provides the power for the lights and a little charge for the batteries at the same time. Using an all round white, instead of a stern sail white combined with a mast mounted steaming light, saves 5 watts, and gives some light in the cockpit too.
overkill and underkill
I took a four day trip and ended up using less power than I had "budgeted" so the 20 watt panel has ended up being overkill in some cases and not enough in others. On this boat, I wanted a car stereo which is a big power hog (enclosed shelf speakers inside the aft berth - and it definately is nice sounding stereo but not obnoxious to everyone else on the lake) and that partly drove the panel size. With the charge regulator, there is no "penalty" from having too big of a panel - its only the initial cost and the size (which I really havent had a problem with). I still think it is difficult to find a good spot on a boat for a panel. The motor spot seems like a good place for a small panel, there may be some small risk of damage from vibration - but likely no problem.
I took a four day trip and ended up using less power than I had "budgeted" so the 20 watt panel has ended up being overkill in some cases and not enough in others. On this boat, I wanted a car stereo which is a big power hog (enclosed shelf speakers inside the aft berth - and it definately is nice sounding stereo but not obnoxious to everyone else on the lake) and that partly drove the panel size. With the charge regulator, there is no "penalty" from having too big of a panel - its only the initial cost and the size (which I really havent had a problem with). I still think it is difficult to find a good spot on a boat for a panel. The motor spot seems like a good place for a small panel, there may be some small risk of damage from vibration - but likely no problem.
Newer technology
A 30 watt panel of the mono-crystaline type is 2/3 the size of "last years" 15 watt unit. I was just looking at one that was 12 X 21 inches. This size can fit on the aft rail and leave room for the swim ladder. I agree with Walt that you can't have too much power - and a charge controller ensures the batteries are not over charged. Chris
A 30 watt panel of the mono-crystaline type is 2/3 the size of "last years" 15 watt unit. I was just looking at one that was 12 X 21 inches. This size can fit on the aft rail and leave room for the swim ladder. I agree with Walt that you can't have too much power - and a charge controller ensures the batteries are not over charged. Chris
Pricing
The panel I'm looking at is around $300 - $350. The local automotive supplier has expanded into alternative energy systems and I'm waiting for a decent sale. I have seen it for as low as $250. Others may suggest alternate suppliers and pricing, but when you compare aplles to apples, this price is typical of all the larger US and Canadian suppliers. Cheaper panels usually have poorer quality cover glass, frames and cells. If the panel is slightly larger, it is probably built with lower grade cells. If the panel is twice the size I mentioned, it's not the current mono-crystalline type. If you really get into the specs, the lower grade units have a much steeper "falloff" of output at lower levels of sunlight. Like any technology, you get what you pay for - and tomorrow it's obsolete! In my mind, the small 30 watt unit is finally the right combination of output vs size to be viable for the cruising that we do. Chris
The panel I'm looking at is around $300 - $350. The local automotive supplier has expanded into alternative energy systems and I'm waiting for a decent sale. I have seen it for as low as $250. Others may suggest alternate suppliers and pricing, but when you compare aplles to apples, this price is typical of all the larger US and Canadian suppliers. Cheaper panels usually have poorer quality cover glass, frames and cells. If the panel is slightly larger, it is probably built with lower grade cells. If the panel is twice the size I mentioned, it's not the current mono-crystalline type. If you really get into the specs, the lower grade units have a much steeper "falloff" of output at lower levels of sunlight. Like any technology, you get what you pay for - and tomorrow it's obsolete! In my mind, the small 30 watt unit is finally the right combination of output vs size to be viable for the cruising that we do. Chris
Blocking Diode
Chris let me know when you have it. I've finally figured a 30W is about what I need. Does the panel you are looking at have an integral blocking diode? That is a good price in that output range. I'm beginning to get more serious about solar since my marina frowns on leaving shore power plugged in which is not 100% USCG kosher. IOW- unless it was factory-installed on one of the Hunters or Catalinas they sell you- they will walk by and unplug it during the week. Still doesn't account for people who modify those boats, but I digress. I figure if I plug my boat in on Sunday night and they unplug it Monday morning, I've got a full charge back on the battery anyhow. Plug it back in for 20 mins the next Saturday when I get to the lake and I'm topped. We also had a couple of weeks this summer that power was disabled on my area of the dock. It would be nice not to have to rely on the whims of the marina and on powerlines not being out of service. 30 W would more than replenish what I use in a weekend and keep it mostly topped when I'm out. Another question: Will a solar panel charge controller essenitally monitor the battery and "condition" it like my float charger/maintainer does now? I read in my literature that my charger somehow conditions the battery by doing some function to remove sulfate from the lead plates. Here's a warning for people who are buying panels at Harbor Freight- there is no integral blocking diode and they will discharge your battery at night. Solar panels seem to be a good example of getting what you pay for. If you go cheap, you will get crap.
Chris let me know when you have it. I've finally figured a 30W is about what I need. Does the panel you are looking at have an integral blocking diode? That is a good price in that output range. I'm beginning to get more serious about solar since my marina frowns on leaving shore power plugged in which is not 100% USCG kosher. IOW- unless it was factory-installed on one of the Hunters or Catalinas they sell you- they will walk by and unplug it during the week. Still doesn't account for people who modify those boats, but I digress. I figure if I plug my boat in on Sunday night and they unplug it Monday morning, I've got a full charge back on the battery anyhow. Plug it back in for 20 mins the next Saturday when I get to the lake and I'm topped. We also had a couple of weeks this summer that power was disabled on my area of the dock. It would be nice not to have to rely on the whims of the marina and on powerlines not being out of service. 30 W would more than replenish what I use in a weekend and keep it mostly topped when I'm out. Another question: Will a solar panel charge controller essenitally monitor the battery and "condition" it like my float charger/maintainer does now? I read in my literature that my charger somehow conditions the battery by doing some function to remove sulfate from the lead plates. Here's a warning for people who are buying panels at Harbor Freight- there is no integral blocking diode and they will discharge your battery at night. Solar panels seem to be a good example of getting what you pay for. If you go cheap, you will get crap.
Just heading out - but a quick answer
The panel I was looking at has a diode. These are easy to add yourself... I read a few articles about chargers "conditioning" batteries etc. The general consensus was that they really didn't do anything measurable. The best bet is to not discharge the battery deeply. I read that if you don't go below 90 percent, the life expectancy is double that of going to 80 percent repeatedly. I think it's all relative anyway - most people I know end up replacing every third season regless. We're talking the inexpensive marine batteries - not the high end stuff. Back to "conditioning". I believe this is done by passing a fairly heavy current for a few minutes and then cutting back to a lower value for long term charging. The solar panel won't be able to pump out that much juice... Your marina reminds me of the local airport. We used to leave trickle chargers on the aircraft that were not used regularly. The one and only mechanic there would unplug them at every opportunity. He was trying to shorten the battery life so he could sell us new batteries!! Chris
The panel I was looking at has a diode. These are easy to add yourself... I read a few articles about chargers "conditioning" batteries etc. The general consensus was that they really didn't do anything measurable. The best bet is to not discharge the battery deeply. I read that if you don't go below 90 percent, the life expectancy is double that of going to 80 percent repeatedly. I think it's all relative anyway - most people I know end up replacing every third season regless. We're talking the inexpensive marine batteries - not the high end stuff. Back to "conditioning". I believe this is done by passing a fairly heavy current for a few minutes and then cutting back to a lower value for long term charging. The solar panel won't be able to pump out that much juice... Your marina reminds me of the local airport. We used to leave trickle chargers on the aircraft that were not used regularly. The one and only mechanic there would unplug them at every opportunity. He was trying to shorten the battery life so he could sell us new batteries!! Chris
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