I am new at sailing. My first boat is a 1998 hunter 170. I have been told that the bottom is soft. I can see and feel what they are saying but, they say that the wood infrastructure under floor has deteriated but, when I drain there is no particulate matter, no remnants of any debree in hull. It does take on a lot of water from top side but drains fine and clean water with no debree. My question is, Is there a wood structure in hull? What determines a soft floor? I've heard that the 1998 models were a problem. Any insight? Any one?
Soft Floor 1998 170
- Thread starter billbarrett
- Start date
Not sure about a 1998 model ......someone else may chime in, but I think those were roto molded plastic boats. Hunter had nothing but trouble with their roto mold process and stop making them. If it has a wood frame I would be surprised. I am guessing they are 2 parts, hull and deck glued together. I actually was going to buy a Hunter J15 a few years ago, same type of roto molded boat........ until I did my homework and decided to stick with a fiberglass boat.
I have the same problem. Port side is soft. I just posted a new comment, and am in the same boat you are - new to this world, and purchased a 98 hunter. Ehh...
Ok, let the old fart speak.
Wood is not incorporated into the hull or deck except for the mast base, motor and a few other areas. What basically you have is construction foam that not only acts for buoyancy should the boat try to sink but also structural. I suspect that it has separated and you may be feeling the void between the outer plastic skin and the construction foam.
The first thing would need inspection or a photo of the affected area outlined of course by pencil to see what is occurring as repairs differ on the location. Secondly, the boat would need to be out of the water under roof for a minimum of 6 weeks for the interior to dry with the front tilted up and the drain plug on the back end open for water to escape.
Again, location is a key as to how I would approach but when dry, I would force the construction foam back in place with gorilla glue. Learned that little technique years ago. On top, I would drill a few holes pouring a large amount of Gorilla glue into the holes and using air, I would then spread that glue out. I would then place some boards down and put weights on it to flatten out the outer skin and let sit for 24 hours. To fill the holes up, I would plexisus. Eddie at Hunter might direct you where to get it but any good and expensive plastic bonding weld style glues can be used to fill up the holes, sanded smooth and spray painted with plastic Krylon white to match the white skin. Forget about trying to use two part epoxies, silicon and even 5200 in this repair.
The hull is another as you are dealing with flat and curvature areas. Flat areas about the same if the skin is raised up. In the curved areas, I had to drill holes and again spread gorilla glue with air. However, I had to insert various things to bring the foam backing up against the skin if that was the case in the event the foam had backed off without the outer skin bulging..
I hope this helps to answer your questions.
Wood is not incorporated into the hull or deck except for the mast base, motor and a few other areas. What basically you have is construction foam that not only acts for buoyancy should the boat try to sink but also structural. I suspect that it has separated and you may be feeling the void between the outer plastic skin and the construction foam.
The first thing would need inspection or a photo of the affected area outlined of course by pencil to see what is occurring as repairs differ on the location. Secondly, the boat would need to be out of the water under roof for a minimum of 6 weeks for the interior to dry with the front tilted up and the drain plug on the back end open for water to escape.
Again, location is a key as to how I would approach but when dry, I would force the construction foam back in place with gorilla glue. Learned that little technique years ago. On top, I would drill a few holes pouring a large amount of Gorilla glue into the holes and using air, I would then spread that glue out. I would then place some boards down and put weights on it to flatten out the outer skin and let sit for 24 hours. To fill the holes up, I would plexisus. Eddie at Hunter might direct you where to get it but any good and expensive plastic bonding weld style glues can be used to fill up the holes, sanded smooth and spray painted with plastic Krylon white to match the white skin. Forget about trying to use two part epoxies, silicon and even 5200 in this repair.
The hull is another as you are dealing with flat and curvature areas. Flat areas about the same if the skin is raised up. In the curved areas, I had to drill holes and again spread gorilla glue with air. However, I had to insert various things to bring the foam backing up against the skin if that was the case in the event the foam had backed off without the outer skin bulging..
I hope this helps to answer your questions.
Dave, so glad to meet you!! Thanks for the reply. Why would this boat take on so much water??? Cant figure out where its all coming from. How can you drain it if its still in the wAter? Mine is at a dock, and i dont pull it out after eeach use.
How much water are talking about? If the hull is taking on water while it sits in a slip, you'll have to take it out and look for hairline cracks that these ACP hulls are prone to. I would also inspect the centerboard truck for cracks and repair as needed.
Mine doesn't take on water at the slip (forgive me for responding, but I have the same issue), but does take on while sailing. The motor mount pulled back, so I repaired that! but when I pulled it out to repair initially! a ton of water poured out of the transom! through the bottom hull. I'm assuming this isn't normal, and the problem? Does the ballast normally fill/drain through some entrance near the CB?
You will need to check the trunk housing as one suggested but often I found that many did not tighten the transom drain bail plug enough. You may also want to rebed that drain bail plug because it may have come loose and thus water is coming thru the sealant.
Raleigh Hunter 170, my wife had a baby shower for a neighbor and in the midst of her cleaning, she threw away your phone number. Plus, I had to play host to about 18 women and eventually retreated upstairs. Sorry ladies but it sounded like a bunch of cackling hens downstairs. Ha. So, can you call me tonight. I am local to you about 20 east.
Raleigh Hunter 170, my wife had a baby shower for a neighbor and in the midst of her cleaning, she threw away your phone number. Plus, I had to play host to about 18 women and eventually retreated upstairs. Sorry ladies but it sounded like a bunch of cackling hens downstairs. Ha. So, can you call me tonight. I am local to you about 20 east.
Thanks, Dave! I just got home from work (long day), so don't want to call to late. Will send my info to your email. With regards to the boat..... All I want to do is sail, and the dang thing is such a project. I must admit though, I am ok with that, and am excited to have a boat to work on. I'm as to born fool, sometimes, and will work on it forever, before I give up. This is my childhood
Got your phone number and will talk with you tonight.
Bill Barret; Email me your phone number and location. I will call and hopefully can help you as well. I am a former dealer and top seller for that model as well.
crazy dave condon
Bill Barret; Email me your phone number and location. I will call and hopefully can help you as well. I am a former dealer and top seller for that model as well.
crazy dave condon