So, I built a marine air conditioner. Wanna see?

Jan 4, 2020
43
Hunter HC 30 Washington, NC
Wasn't sure where to put this, but decided to share. Please move to appropriate forum if needed.

I logged some pictures and videos of our 1981 30' Hunter Cherubini project about a year and a half ago here. We have been living on her about 70% of the time since, going into our second summer now. We're on Ocracoke Island in a slip for now, working out here. Anyway, I tried a couple of AC configurations last summer and ended up just hanging a window unit out of the companion way. I mean, it works, but you have to crawl over the thing getting in and out and our boat that we worked so hard on looked a little like the marine version of Cousin Eddie's RV parked in Clark Griswolds driveway. So over last winter I sent some time devising a new plan. It has performed so well, I thought I would share.

First, during our rehab we had removed the water heater from the space under the cockpit, between the engine compartment and the fuel tank, and installed an on demand gas unit mounted on the wall, in the head. This is the perfect space for an AC unit.

Now, leaving out the more mundane parts of boxing in the return and feed with HVAC foiled foam board and foil tape, the big question I had seen kicked around was how to build a water condenser and replace the air cooled condenser. And the answer is super simple. a three and a half inch section of PVC pipe with 20 feet of copper tubing coiled inside. Install fittings on each end to pump water through the PVC pipe. It's that simple. Solder the tubing back in where the old condenser tubing was cut out, vacuum the system down and recharge. It's done.

I used an old R-22, 5,000 BTU unit that was junked because the condenser had a leak. So it cost me $100 for the R-22, and yes, I am EPA certified to buy. But most window ACs are now R-134, so anyone can buy and it's cheap. Instead of $100, it will cost $15 to recharge. I used an old West Marine water pump I had on hand to begin with, but once the system proved to be awesome at cooling my boat, I spent another $150 on a Seaflo raw water circulation pump. It's rated for continuous cycle and designed to pump seawater.

A couple videos I will get posted up and be happy to answer questions. This is a pretty darn simple AC solution that has cost me about $300, a junked window unit and a little time in the shop. Even if you bought a new 5,000 BTU unit, you'd still have less than $500 in a great AC.....
 
May 27, 2004
2,041
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
Can't wait for the install.
Oops, and there it is (sorta).
Gotta see the other part.
 
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Jan 4, 2020
43
Hunter HC 30 Washington, NC
Can't wait for the install.
It fit perfectly where the water heater had been. A 6" return duct and a 4" delivery duct into the under sink cabinet, then one mounted in the little space tucked in there at the edge of the cupboard. Also, a once inch PVC pipe run under the gunnel to the V berth, with a 12 volt computer fan taking air through that to the V berth.

Of all the projects I haver done, I am as happy as any I have ever done with this. It's hot and humid outside right now, but cool as a frige inside my cabin.
 
May 27, 2004
2,041
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
My water heater locale is different and, I don't have an engine access hatch in the cockpit floor.
 
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May 29, 2018
569
Canel 25 foot Shiogama, japan
Good job on the AC build, Portajon.
You have pulled off a real winner.

Your presentation could do with a little work.
Photos and video a little too dark.

I have a question about your condenser.
I can imagine how you sealed the PVC end caps and connections, but how did you seal the copper tube as it exited the end caps?

All the best
Gary
 
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Jan 4, 2020
43
Hunter HC 30 Washington, NC
I have a question about your condenser.
I can imagine how you sealed the PVC end caps and connections, but how did you seal the copper tube as it exited the end caps?

All the best
Gary
Sorry the documentation isn't a little clearer. I had pretty much forgotten about you guys here (sorry) and didn't get too technical with the fb friends that usually look at those videos.

The three and a half inch PVC gets reduced down to 2" then that gets a 3/4 threaded fitting. From there, you can choose different sized barbed fitting for your in and out lines, straights or 90s. I had straights at first, then changed them to 90s for the install. They are the gray colored fittings for poly pipe, or you can look in the Rainbird irrigation fittings to find options.

Wind the coil around a smaller piece of PVC. I think I used a 2" piece. (remove the 2" piece after you wrap the coil... don't stuff it in there with the coil....) at the end, turn the tubing carefully and run it back through the center of the coil so that both ends of the tubing are the same end of the PVC. when you install the reducing bushings for the PVC, drill perfect 1/4 " holes, feed the lines through, then epoxy.

Also, it's a good idea to install a little baffling inside the coil. This will make the water flow around the coil, and not just through the center. I tie wrapped a couple 1/2" couplings inside the coil, along the length.
 
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JRacer

.
Aug 9, 2011
1,360
Beneteau 310 Cheney KS (Wichita)
And the answer is super simple. a three and a half inch section of PVC pipe with 20 feet of copper tubing coiled inside. Install fittings on each end to pump water through the PVC pipe. \
In NC, don't they call that a "thump keg"? :laugh:
 
Jan 4, 2020
43
Hunter HC 30 Washington, NC
Also.... the 3 1/2 inch to 2" reducer will have little webbed sort of pockets where you drill the holes for the 1/4 copper tubing. This gives you a very nice bed to lay about a 1/2 pocket of epoxy where the tubing exits.
 
Jan 4, 2020
43
Hunter HC 30 Washington, NC
:biggrin: Was watching your video as you replied. Necessity is the mother of invention. Look's like it will be a good solution and you don't have to climb over it.

Yup. This install would have cost me probably $2,500 without this little bit of fooling around with scrap parts.

And honestly, I read about a half dozen message board threads of failed attempts at this.... but I am a bonafide refrigerant handler soooo.. I sort of identified where they went wrong and made a plan that worked. And it's all plastic and copper. Should last for a spell.
 
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Jul 15, 2012
24
Down Easter DE45 New Bern, NC
Portajon, you should write it up, and submit it to one of the boating DIY magazines, like Good Old Boat, who will pay you if they accept it. You will need to take better high-resolution images, but you don’t need to be a Shakespeare, just write clear and detailed instructions, as though you were following them yourself for the first time.
I started six years ago and now have a website full of successful articles, published in four countries. Just one word of caution, don’t give up the day job just yet.
www.schooner-britannia.com
 
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