Today while sailing in St. Andrews Bay I broke the port side snatch block for the jib sheet. I am not sure if it was my placement on the toe rail or if it was equipment failire. I was wondering which company I should use for my replacement snatch block, and where on the toe rail should the block be located? I have a 1977 Hunter 25 fixed keel. Thanks in advance... Steve Hall S/V Helen Highwater
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Try Garhauer Marine.
Steve: You can get new ones from Garhauer Marine www.garhauermarine.com As far as the placement goes they should be at a point so the sheet bisects an angle at the clew of the jib. If it is too far aft this will cause the foot of the sail to be too tight and flat. If it is too far forward the sail will have too large of a bag at the foot.
Steve: You can get new ones from Garhauer Marine www.garhauermarine.com As far as the placement goes they should be at a point so the sheet bisects an angle at the clew of the jib. If it is too far aft this will cause the foot of the sail to be too tight and flat. If it is too far forward the sail will have too large of a bag at the foot.
J
John Allison
It all depends
The placement of the snatch block is highly dependent on wind conditions and the type of head sail used. Considering just the wind conditions: heavy winds demand a flattened sail while light winds demand a fuller sail. Thus, in light airs and for the 25 (assuming that the winch location is roughly the same as mine), the block should be slightly ahead of or even with the cabin bulkhead. As the air builds, the block must be moved back. Heavy airs demands a flat sheet and as far back as you can move the block the better. This is basically how is set up for my 155 Genoa. The type of sail also dictates the placement of the shocks. My description above is for the 155 Genoa. The 130% Genoa will demand different settings (primarily on the heavy wind side / where the blocks will move forward slightly as compared to the 155%). The 110% or a jib will be different yet. Play with your settings ... your speed, the pressure on the tiller and the heel of the boat will be your best indicators of correct block placement.
The placement of the snatch block is highly dependent on wind conditions and the type of head sail used. Considering just the wind conditions: heavy winds demand a flattened sail while light winds demand a fuller sail. Thus, in light airs and for the 25 (assuming that the winch location is roughly the same as mine), the block should be slightly ahead of or even with the cabin bulkhead. As the air builds, the block must be moved back. Heavy airs demands a flat sheet and as far back as you can move the block the better. This is basically how is set up for my 155 Genoa. The type of sail also dictates the placement of the shocks. My description above is for the 155 Genoa. The 130% Genoa will demand different settings (primarily on the heavy wind side / where the blocks will move forward slightly as compared to the 155%). The 110% or a jib will be different yet. Play with your settings ... your speed, the pressure on the tiller and the heel of the boat will be your best indicators of correct block placement.
D
Doug T.
Track
A genoa track will make all this experimenting a lot easier to deal with. Once you find the optimum placements for various combinations of sails, wind conditions, and points of sail, you can mark the track so you can recreate the conditions.
A genoa track will make all this experimenting a lot easier to deal with. Once you find the optimum placements for various combinations of sails, wind conditions, and points of sail, you can mark the track so you can recreate the conditions.
J
Jack Harness
Blocks
I to have a 1977 Hunter 25 and I use the method John discribes. I will also count slots from the stanction back. The best block I have found are Harken.
I to have a 1977 Hunter 25 and I use the method John discribes. I will also count slots from the stanction back. The best block I have found are Harken.
D
DOUG
TOE RAIL LOCATION
I HAVE A 78 HUNTER 25, IMOVE THE BLOCK BACK OR FOREWARD IN RELATION TO THE HEAD SAIL I HAVE UP,TO KEEP THE THE SAIL TRIMMED.IF ITS TO FAR AFT YOU CANT BRING DOWN THE REAR SAIL DOWN
I HAVE A 78 HUNTER 25, IMOVE THE BLOCK BACK OR FOREWARD IN RELATION TO THE HEAD SAIL I HAVE UP,TO KEEP THE THE SAIL TRIMMED.IF ITS TO FAR AFT YOU CANT BRING DOWN THE REAR SAIL DOWN
J
Jon Bastien
Settings on my '78 H25
Here's where I place the snatch blocks on my H25: With the 110% jib, I start with the blocks on the toe rail one hole ahead of the forward lower shrouds. With the 135%, I start with them 2 holes back from the stanchion at the forward end of the cockpit coaming. These are starting points; the blocks can then be moved forward or back as necessary for wind conditions. A previous poster mentioned marking the genoa tracks to make it easy to set the cars for the genoa blocks... I use a similar system with my toe rail- I have red electrical tape wrapped around the toe rail marking the hole for the 110%, and blue tape for the 135. Works like a charm, and I never have to remember how far from a piece of deck hardware I'm supposed to place the blocks. --Jon Bastien H25 'Adagio'
Here's where I place the snatch blocks on my H25: With the 110% jib, I start with the blocks on the toe rail one hole ahead of the forward lower shrouds. With the 135%, I start with them 2 holes back from the stanchion at the forward end of the cockpit coaming. These are starting points; the blocks can then be moved forward or back as necessary for wind conditions. A previous poster mentioned marking the genoa tracks to make it easy to set the cars for the genoa blocks... I use a similar system with my toe rail- I have red electrical tape wrapped around the toe rail marking the hole for the 110%, and blue tape for the 135. Works like a charm, and I never have to remember how far from a piece of deck hardware I'm supposed to place the blocks. --Jon Bastien H25 'Adagio'
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