The sliding Hatch over the companionway on my 86 Hunter 31 is squeeking and hanging up a bit. It also leaks a little into the cabin in a good storm. My guess is that there is rot inside. I am wondering how much of a job this is going to be to get to the hatch and replace whatever is deteriorated. Even removing the large fiberglass cover that also covers the lines leading to the cockpit looks somewhat arduous. Anyone done this job before? Hints?
Sliding Hatch over Companionway
- Thread starter wufibugs
- Start date
- Status
Richard, It sounds like delamination/rot and the only way to do it is to remove everything and start from the beginning. I redid my entire companionway three years ago and I would not attempt this in the water unless you are willing to sacrifice your sailing season. This is definitely a Winter Project. If you want some hints, I'll be glad to help. Best, Ron
I had a H31 1987, leaked also. I had a piece of starboard cut to fit over the top of the companionway above the sliding hatch top, then had canvas shop make a cover that fit over starboard and down over the hatch boards (which I also replaced with a solid piece of starboard), results no leaks into the cabin.
Years ago on the Hunter Forum, I remember someone had removed the "large fiberglass cover that also covers the lines leading to the cockpit" YES it was "somewhat arduous". Unless you really want to take on the task, my solution stopped the leaking. I believe that the sliding hatch not having a downward fall, so the water would drain out was a design flaw, not really fixable and I was not willing to take it on. I just covered it up to stop the leaking.
On the Hunter Owner's site, look up Chuck Creel, H31 boat name "Piano", he recently purchased my H31, recently talked with him and the starboard and canvas cover is still in use, he be willing to sent you pictures.
Bill
Years ago on the Hunter Forum, I remember someone had removed the "large fiberglass cover that also covers the lines leading to the cockpit" YES it was "somewhat arduous". Unless you really want to take on the task, my solution stopped the leaking. I believe that the sliding hatch not having a downward fall, so the water would drain out was a design flaw, not really fixable and I was not willing to take it on. I just covered it up to stop the leaking.
On the Hunter Owner's site, look up Chuck Creel, H31 boat name "Piano", he recently purchased my H31, recently talked with him and the starboard and canvas cover is still in use, he be willing to sent you pictures.
Bill
This era of Hunters all had a similar issue. We had a Sunbrella companionway cover made for ours and it basically eliminated the problem. If I were going to make a new cover today, I would use the Sunbrella Plus (vinyl coating on the back side). You also want to be sure that the track is cleaned out and the drain holes on the cockpit side are kept clear.
Steve, did you use the companionway cover and a dodger? BTW, why did you elect to keep the 31 after moved up to the Vision?
Here's what it looks like...
under the companionway cover of an H31...
The mast step shot is a bonus...
under the companionway cover of an H31...
The mast step shot is a bonus...
Attachments
Dan, does the cover come off after removing only the visible screws holding it down? Is it bedded in something so that the bedding compound has to be cut or somehow released? Not clear from the pictures, so what did you find to be the major problem once you had the companionway hatch exposed?
I sold the H'31 to someone else that happens to keep it in our harbor. I am a one boat sort of guy. Don't think I could keep up with tending after two of them.
Yes I had a dodger & companionway cover too. When the wind blows the water will get blown into the area where the seahood cover everything. The problem is that the forward end of the tracks are open under the seahood and quite often there is debris in the rails that prevent water from draining.
If I were to remove the seahood, I would plug the forward end of the rail to prevent the water from draining forward
Yes I had a dodger & companionway cover too. When the wind blows the water will get blown into the area where the seahood cover everything. The problem is that the forward end of the tracks are open under the seahood and quite often there is debris in the rails that prevent water from draining.
If I were to remove the seahood, I would plug the forward end of the rail to prevent the water from draining forward
To remove the cover you also need to remove the traveler too. This is not a job for the faint of heart. Just getting the bolts out of the traveler may be a big job. When resetting the traveler you should be sure that the never seize or tef-gel is used on the threads.
There is caulking around the hood that needs to be cut out. If this is anything like the fresh water tank, it is not an easy task either.
There is caulking around the hood that needs to be cut out. If this is anything like the fresh water tank, it is not an easy task either.
Hmm, the bedding compound was a semi-rhetorical question the answer to which I'd hoped would come as a shock. Not so. So one would try to use monofilament or piano wire to sever the caulk? The leak is minor and only under certain circumstances. It's the potential for progressive problems with rot that I fear. Budgetary considerations cast the deciding vote for one who should be feinter of heart.
I would purchase a cover from the SBO site and try that out. I would not dig into the sea hood project unless you see something that makes you believe that there is rot.
So, Steve, you are not convinced the squeeling near the end of the run when I open the hatch, the slight sticking when it is fully opened and the slight leak mean some kind of deterioration or rot that I should catch now? That is certainly not a project I would like to undertake unless there was some concensus that it was necessary. If I could avoid that, I could not get a cover fast enough.
My take on this is you really need a cover regardless of the ultimate result. Get a cover, clean up you track & put a little lube on the track/acrylic and give it a go.
Like I mentioned, I would ask them to use Sunbrella Plus so you would no longer get water on the lid.
I do not see yours listed, but if you call Dave at SBO.com they will probably have a method for you to measure one.
Just a tip. The fewer snaps you have the better off you are. If you have four (two pairs fore/aft) on the top part and a couple on the bottom part that is enough. The can put sand in the bottom of the flap to hold it down.
Like I mentioned, I would ask them to use Sunbrella Plus so you would no longer get water on the lid.
I do not see yours listed, but if you call Dave at SBO.com they will probably have a method for you to measure one.
Just a tip. The fewer snaps you have the better off you are. If you have four (two pairs fore/aft) on the top part and a couple on the bottom part that is enough. The can put sand in the bottom of the flap to hold it down.
Traveler removal will be the biggie
The stainless steel screws that hold the traveler down will most likely be set in an aluminum plate - need I say more? The good news is they are quite large and the plate is not hugely thick, and if they used some sealant on them when they were installed it might not be too bad, but there will most likely be one that will put up a struggle.
A suggestion would be to try removing these first because if there is a problem here you can quit and go to Plan B. Avoid twisting them off, though.
The screws that hold the spray hood down can be loosened a turn by hand and then use an electric drill to go the rest of the way.
The sealant around the hood shouldn't be that bad. I had mine off a few years ago and it went quite easy. Just use a utility knife to make a slit between the deck and the hood and it hopefully should come up fairly easy after that.
I had mine off to put an aluminum strip under the traveler to catch the rain. It went the full width of the hatch and had a lip on the forward and aft sides.
As for the plexiglass hatch noise, I rub the top edge of the aluminum channel with a stick bees wax like what is used in canning and it slides like it was greased. This lasts for a while and then it has to be re-done. One stick will last you a lifetime.
The stainless steel screws that hold the traveler down will most likely be set in an aluminum plate - need I say more? The good news is they are quite large and the plate is not hugely thick, and if they used some sealant on them when they were installed it might not be too bad, but there will most likely be one that will put up a struggle.
A suggestion would be to try removing these first because if there is a problem here you can quit and go to Plan B. Avoid twisting them off, though.
The screws that hold the spray hood down can be loosened a turn by hand and then use an electric drill to go the rest of the way.
The sealant around the hood shouldn't be that bad. I had mine off a few years ago and it went quite easy. Just use a utility knife to make a slit between the deck and the hood and it hopefully should come up fairly easy after that.
I had mine off to put an aluminum strip under the traveler to catch the rain. It went the full width of the hatch and had a lip on the forward and aft sides.
As for the plexiglass hatch noise, I rub the top edge of the aluminum channel with a stick bees wax like what is used in canning and it slides like it was greased. This lasts for a while and then it has to be re-done. One stick will last you a lifetime.
Dan, great photos and a perfect case in point:the only way to do a job is the right way. Good sailing, Ron
Richard and Ron...
Richard: the cover removed pictures are not of my boat but snagged off this site sometime in the past for reference as the H31 and H34 are almost the same in their construction details. I may have to do the same thing to cure a leak so it helps to have some references before diving in.
Ron: thanks for the complement. I try to pass on what I find & save as circumstances dictate.
Richard: the cover removed pictures are not of my boat but snagged off this site sometime in the past for reference as the H31 and H34 are almost the same in their construction details. I may have to do the same thing to cure a leak so it helps to have some references before diving in.
Ron: thanks for the complement. I try to pass on what I find & save as circumstances dictate.
- Status