I have heard that an assymetrical should be sized to float a bit off the deck, with the tack secured to a pendant. If so, what is the purpose? To clear the pulpit, or for easier jibing? How high is optimum? Can one get away with a regular tack to the foredeck, and full length luff? Thanks. Bruce
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Joe Ford
Asymetrical......
If you don't have a pulpit or lifelines you could tack it directly to the deck, otherwise you want the sail to fly clear so it will fill correctly. This sail billows out a lot more than your jib. The best solution is to make the tack line adjustable from the cockpit. Clip the tack of the sail to the forestay, then run the tackline through a block that is attached to the tack fitting, then back to the cockpit. This adjustment allows you many more options. A flatter sail is better when reaching and a fuller sail works better further off the wind. The luff (length) of the sail should not be longer that the deck to top of mast dimension. The curve of the sail will lift it clear of the deck when it fills. If it is too long you limit your adjustment options. This sail is fun to use but does not work well going straight down wind. It works best when the apparent wind is 75 to 120 degrees. With a "snuffer" it is easy to set and douse, although you'll need a crew to go forward to hook it up. I use mine fairly often, as long as I have a crew to help. I have seen gennakers on furlers that allows them to be set it from the cockpit. that intrigues me since I single hand a lot. Follow the related link for more info.
If you don't have a pulpit or lifelines you could tack it directly to the deck, otherwise you want the sail to fly clear so it will fill correctly. This sail billows out a lot more than your jib. The best solution is to make the tack line adjustable from the cockpit. Clip the tack of the sail to the forestay, then run the tackline through a block that is attached to the tack fitting, then back to the cockpit. This adjustment allows you many more options. A flatter sail is better when reaching and a fuller sail works better further off the wind. The luff (length) of the sail should not be longer that the deck to top of mast dimension. The curve of the sail will lift it clear of the deck when it fills. If it is too long you limit your adjustment options. This sail is fun to use but does not work well going straight down wind. It works best when the apparent wind is 75 to 120 degrees. With a "snuffer" it is easy to set and douse, although you'll need a crew to go forward to hook it up. I use mine fairly often, as long as I have a crew to help. I have seen gennakers on furlers that allows them to be set it from the cockpit. that intrigues me since I single hand a lot. Follow the related link for more info.
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David Foster
Ask a sailmaker
Take the time to pick a sailmaker, and ask the one you choose. They will give free advice in return for your interest. Any competent loft will have the dimensions for your boat - and insist on checking them to be sure. The designs are the result of wind tunnel tests, computer simulations, and racing experience to get the most efficient air flow, and good tunability. I agree with Joe's discussion of the tack mounting. I would add that you want to mount it as far forward as possible to give clearance from the main. We take a turn around the pulpit, and then fasten the tack line to the toerail. We adjust luff tension by moving the attachment point on the rail. David Lady Lillie
Take the time to pick a sailmaker, and ask the one you choose. They will give free advice in return for your interest. Any competent loft will have the dimensions for your boat - and insist on checking them to be sure. The designs are the result of wind tunnel tests, computer simulations, and racing experience to get the most efficient air flow, and good tunability. I agree with Joe's discussion of the tack mounting. I would add that you want to mount it as far forward as possible to give clearance from the main. We take a turn around the pulpit, and then fasten the tack line to the toerail. We adjust luff tension by moving the attachment point on the rail. David Lady Lillie
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Charlie Gruetzner
Buy right here
Bruce, I have purchased two asymetrical spinnakers right here from Sailboatowners.com. The first for my Catalina 27 and then for my Beneteau 361. Give them a call and they will provide you will all the information you need. They really did a terrific job and were really great to work with. They were both top quality and I am very happy with them good luck Charlie Gruetzner S/V Angels' Grace
Bruce, I have purchased two asymetrical spinnakers right here from Sailboatowners.com. The first for my Catalina 27 and then for my Beneteau 361. Give them a call and they will provide you will all the information you need. They really did a terrific job and were really great to work with. They were both top quality and I am very happy with them good luck Charlie Gruetzner S/V Angels' Grace
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Mark Burrows
Masthead halyard on a Fractional Rig
Hunters after 1988 are mostly fractional rigs. With respect to safety and integrity of the rig, can an asymetrical spinaker halyard be at the top of the mast for a fractional rig?
Hunters after 1988 are mostly fractional rigs. With respect to safety and integrity of the rig, can an asymetrical spinaker halyard be at the top of the mast for a fractional rig?
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Tim Stodola
Asymmetrical Info
Hello Bruce, Thanks for joining the Doyle Sailmakers Forum. The actual 3D Shape of a true asymmetric spinnaker has no straight edges. The sail is designed to float up and out from behind the main. The Tack line is long enough to aloow the sail to be adjusted for different wind angles. On a close reach, tighten the luff, by pulling down on the tack. On a broad reach/run you will want to ease up on the luff, raising the tack to allow the sail again to float up and out from behind the main.
Hello Bruce, Thanks for joining the Doyle Sailmakers Forum. The actual 3D Shape of a true asymmetric spinnaker has no straight edges. The sail is designed to float up and out from behind the main. The Tack line is long enough to aloow the sail to be adjusted for different wind angles. On a close reach, tighten the luff, by pulling down on the tack. On a broad reach/run you will want to ease up on the luff, raising the tack to allow the sail again to float up and out from behind the main.
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Tim Stodola
Hast Head Halyard
Hi Mark, thanks for joining the Doyle Sailmakers forum. Mast head halyards should not be added to Fractional rigs without first consulting the mast manufacturer. The loads of a spinnaker must be supported, and the rigs on most production boats are not stayed or reinforced to take these loads.
Hi Mark, thanks for joining the Doyle Sailmakers forum. Mast head halyards should not be added to Fractional rigs without first consulting the mast manufacturer. The loads of a spinnaker must be supported, and the rigs on most production boats are not stayed or reinforced to take these loads.
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Steve
Selden says NO to mast head halyard...
I spoke with Selden late last year about a number of items, and one was the mast head halyard for other than the main sail. They said that the rig would not support that, and it should not be done. Use the halyard below the top spreaders and above the jib, if so provided. If not, contact Selden (or however makes your rig), they are very friendly people and very willing to help. Steve
I spoke with Selden late last year about a number of items, and one was the mast head halyard for other than the main sail. They said that the rig would not support that, and it should not be done. Use the halyard below the top spreaders and above the jib, if so provided. If not, contact Selden (or however makes your rig), they are very friendly people and very willing to help. Steve
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Chuck Wayne
asymmetrical rigging
Good point, Tim. Most asym chutes, including Doyle's, seem to come with a short guy attached to tie off on the bow-enough to trim the luff, but someone has to go forward to trim it. I removed mine, and used a turning block and reefing line blocks back to the cockpit on the port side so we can trim the guy from the cockpit-works really well! Also, Kudos to Doyle for using the genuine ATN socks-others have written that the "other" brands don't work anywhere near as well Chuck Wayne H356 WWW.Escape
Good point, Tim. Most asym chutes, including Doyle's, seem to come with a short guy attached to tie off on the bow-enough to trim the luff, but someone has to go forward to trim it. I removed mine, and used a turning block and reefing line blocks back to the cockpit on the port side so we can trim the guy from the cockpit-works really well! Also, Kudos to Doyle for using the genuine ATN socks-others have written that the "other" brands don't work anywhere near as well Chuck Wayne H356 WWW.Escape
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