I have a C30 tall rig and need to reef often so I am planing to install single line reefing this spring. I am planning to do it similar to the drawings of the harken system sold in west marine. Has anyone done this? Do you like the way it works? One concern is the friction of the line as it passes through the tack cringle. Thanks for the help. Hayden Watson S/V Papillon 1988 C30 tr/bs Spokane, WA
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Peter Hine
SLR is great!!
I installed single line reefing in my Cat27 about 7 years ago. Have used it in both 1st & 2nd reefs. I didn't buy the Harken kit, but replicated it fairly closely. Originally I led the line thru the leech cringles and turning block at the end of the boom(like any reefing), to another turning block at the forward end of the boom, thru the tack cringle, and down to the deck, then coming back to cleats at the cockpit. This worked OK, but LOTS OF FRICTION! I fixed this by running the reef lines thru a block affixed in the tack cringle, so the line at the tack runs thru a block instead of just the cringle. MUCH BETTER! I love the SLR. I reef easily (in less than 30 seconds!) from behind the dodger. Nobody goes forward! Shaking out the reef is just as easy. Easiest, safest, and best improvement. WHY DOESN'T EVERYBODY DO THIS? Peter
I installed single line reefing in my Cat27 about 7 years ago. Have used it in both 1st & 2nd reefs. I didn't buy the Harken kit, but replicated it fairly closely. Originally I led the line thru the leech cringles and turning block at the end of the boom(like any reefing), to another turning block at the forward end of the boom, thru the tack cringle, and down to the deck, then coming back to cleats at the cockpit. This worked OK, but LOTS OF FRICTION! I fixed this by running the reef lines thru a block affixed in the tack cringle, so the line at the tack runs thru a block instead of just the cringle. MUCH BETTER! I love the SLR. I reef easily (in less than 30 seconds!) from behind the dodger. Nobody goes forward! Shaking out the reef is just as easy. Easiest, safest, and best improvement. WHY DOESN'T EVERYBODY DO THIS? Peter
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Bob Stephens
However you set up your system, you want to be sure to pull the tack of the sail down and especialy forward. I found that with the system I originally had, it did not do this and you could not tighten the foot of the sail. The reef was useless. I did correct it. Just another thing to think about.
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Hayden Watson
One more question
Thanks Peter and Bob. Peter, you said that you put a block on the reek cringle. What kind of block did you use and where did you get it. I have been worried about the fiction. Bob, I am planning to install a harken bearing cheek block on the boom and a pad eye on the mast which should pull down and forward. One other question. Where do you put your stopper for the reef line? The halyard is on starboard. Is it best to put the reef line on the same side or opposite? I have some red thread whipped into my halyard where it exits the line clutch at the first reef and blue at the second reef. This way I just drop the halyard to the thread and tighten the reef lines. This way I don’t have to rehoist the main after pulling in the reef line. I assume this will still work with SLR. Thanks again Hayden Watson S/V Papillon 1988 C30 tr/bs Spokane, WA
Thanks Peter and Bob. Peter, you said that you put a block on the reek cringle. What kind of block did you use and where did you get it. I have been worried about the fiction. Bob, I am planning to install a harken bearing cheek block on the boom and a pad eye on the mast which should pull down and forward. One other question. Where do you put your stopper for the reef line? The halyard is on starboard. Is it best to put the reef line on the same side or opposite? I have some red thread whipped into my halyard where it exits the line clutch at the first reef and blue at the second reef. This way I just drop the halyard to the thread and tighten the reef lines. This way I don’t have to rehoist the main after pulling in the reef line. I assume this will still work with SLR. Thanks again Hayden Watson S/V Papillon 1988 C30 tr/bs Spokane, WA
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Peter Hine
BLOCK TYPE
I used a harken single block w/swivel and screw-type shackle, appropriate for the 3/8" line I use for the reef lines. Insert the shackle of the block thru the tack cringle. Then, on the other side of the sail, shackle the block to a stainless steel ring. Now run the reef lines up thru the block instead of the cringle, and back down to a turning block on the deck. (Use the ring type that you hose clamp to the bow pulpit to clip the spinnaker bag to, but round.) When I re-rigged everything, I led main and jib halyards on the left side to a double spinlock sheet stopper on the deck, with a winch behind the stopper. This lets me use one winch for both halyards. My reef lines (I have 2 reefs) lead back to cam cleats on the stbd side. Thinking about replacing the cam cleats w/sheet stoppers, even though I've never had a problem with the setup. The advice to watch where you place your blocks is a good one. You want at least as much horizontal vector in the reef line pull as you have vertical, to keep the foot tight in the high winds.
I used a harken single block w/swivel and screw-type shackle, appropriate for the 3/8" line I use for the reef lines. Insert the shackle of the block thru the tack cringle. Then, on the other side of the sail, shackle the block to a stainless steel ring. Now run the reef lines up thru the block instead of the cringle, and back down to a turning block on the deck. (Use the ring type that you hose clamp to the bow pulpit to clip the spinnaker bag to, but round.) When I re-rigged everything, I led main and jib halyards on the left side to a double spinlock sheet stopper on the deck, with a winch behind the stopper. This lets me use one winch for both halyards. My reef lines (I have 2 reefs) lead back to cam cleats on the stbd side. Thinking about replacing the cam cleats w/sheet stoppers, even though I've never had a problem with the setup. The advice to watch where you place your blocks is a good one. You want at least as much horizontal vector in the reef line pull as you have vertical, to keep the foot tight in the high winds.
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Peter Hine
and about the halyard mark....
Forgot to comment on the halyard mark... I marked mine as well, which works great, although I just did it with an indelible marking pen, which needs to be renewed every season or so. One band of ink around the line for 1st reef halyard lift spot, 2 bands for 2nd. Put it where the halyard comes out aft of the stopper, so it's easier to see under the dodger. You let out the mainsheet till you flog, then drop the halyard to the mark, then haul in on the reef line until the tack and clew meet the boom, then cleat the reef line and in on the mainsheet. About 30 secs. from "Hm... maybe we should reef?" to "We're done!" And out takes only a little longer, because you have to winch up the halyard.
Forgot to comment on the halyard mark... I marked mine as well, which works great, although I just did it with an indelible marking pen, which needs to be renewed every season or so. One band of ink around the line for 1st reef halyard lift spot, 2 bands for 2nd. Put it where the halyard comes out aft of the stopper, so it's easier to see under the dodger. You let out the mainsheet till you flog, then drop the halyard to the mark, then haul in on the reef line until the tack and clew meet the boom, then cleat the reef line and in on the mainsheet. About 30 secs. from "Hm... maybe we should reef?" to "We're done!" And out takes only a little longer, because you have to winch up the halyard.
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Bob Camarena
Rigid Boom Vang
A rigid boom vang would be a big help in eliminating the need to fool around with the topping lift to prevent the boom from dropping when slacking the halyard. Garhauer makes a great one for a reasonable price. Peter, I'm going to have to stop by and check out your boat, I've been thinking about converting Tulefrog to single-line reefing.
A rigid boom vang would be a big help in eliminating the need to fool around with the topping lift to prevent the boom from dropping when slacking the halyard. Garhauer makes a great one for a reasonable price. Peter, I'm going to have to stop by and check out your boat, I've been thinking about converting Tulefrog to single-line reefing.
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