A good upgrade
I started researching this very question. There are some good posts (including pictures) on this subject in the archives of this site. I think they involved the 25, but the concept is similar. The biggest problem with doing this project on the 23 is the lack of room on top of the coach house. You will need to use the side. If you do decide to lead both halyards back to the cockpit, you will need some sort of blocks at the base of the mast, a turning block or deck organizer mounted on the side of the coach house roof, and a cleat of some type mounted near the cockpit end of the coach roof side. It was recommened to me to use stand up blocks at the base of the mast, a turning block that lays flat against the coach side, and a standard cleat. I recently also saw a Schafer block on the Sailnet website made specifically for this type of application for the base of the mast. It looks like a standard block mounted on an angle iron, so it stands up at 90 degrees from the mounting surface. I would think a standup block is probably better since it can swivel to whatever angle is necessary, making it easiter to mount. Me, I decided I wanted to switch to roller furling, as a jib cockpit halyard still requires trips to the foredeck. I find it necessary to restrain the unraised jib with a bungee while I motor in and out of the marina and channel, otherwise the sail blows overboard. Since I still would need to go forward to release the jib before raising it, or to secure is after dousing, leading the halyard to the cockpit doesn't help me. Also, I don't know how your jib behaves, but mine won't douse completely unless I am on the foredeck pulling it down. Even if you don't secure the sail when motoring, you would still need to add a jib downhaul line to make your cockpit system workable. My mainsail cooperates more, but the slides start to bunch up without help; I don't know if a down haul would help much.
