Just in time for Christmas! For all the long-suffering H23 owners who hate raising the mast as much as I do, my mast-raising rig is finally in the Photo Forum. Go to the Photo Forum and look for the post entitled "Single-handed mast raising rig for H23". There should be 5 photos. Here is a detailed description of the procedure (it's a bit long). "HUNTER 23 MAST RAISING RIG" The rig was made from two 10 ft long top rails for chain link fencing from Home Depot. They were cut off so that when laid on the deck, each would reach from the midship lifeline stanchion (closest to the mast base) to the center of the anchor locker just behind the wire bridle for the forestay. The ends were flattened by beating them on a block of wood with a sledgehammer, then angled slightly in a vise. When the rig is assembled, all the bolts should be parallel to each other. Holes were drilled at both ends of each rail for stainless steel bolts (I used 5/16” but 1/4” should be fine). Then place a 7/8"diameter electrical conduit hangers (they have a rubber cushion) around each midship lifeline stanchion. Bolt the aft end of each rail to the stanchion through the bolt hole in the hanger (you may have to open this hole a little with a grinder or Dremel tool) and secure with a wing nut. Bolt the two forward ends of the rails together with two stainless steel rigging tangs between them (about $5 each at West Marine) and secure with another wing nut. The result is an A-frame that pivots at the stanchions with two tangs at the apex. TO RAISE THE MAST: Slide the mast aft on the aft roller, drop the base into the bracket on the deck and pin it. A bungee about midway between the spreaders and the mast base will keep the shrouds under control (the t-ball fittings at the upper ends tend to fall out when the mast is horizontal). Attach the jib halyard shackle to one of the tangs. Rig the mainsheet tackle between the jib tack pendant in the anchor locker and the other tang at the apex of the A-frame. Go to the mast base and pull on the jib halyard. The A-frame should rise off the deck and pull the mainsheet tackle with it. Make sure the mainsheet is free to run. When the A-frame is perpendicular to the mast, stop and secure the jib halyard properly. This is very important because if the jib halyard slips, you will lose the mast. Now pull in the mainsheet. If you have plenty of mainsheet, you can stand aft of the mast base and help guide the mast as it goes up. The A-frame will come back down to the deck and pull the mast up very easily. If you need to stop part way up (e.g. to free a shroud) just cleat off the mainsheet. There is very little load in the system at this point and the A-frame is stable. The mast may swing from side to side a little but not enough to be a concern. As the mast becomes vertical, pull harder on the mainsheet to overcome then tension in the shrouds and backstay. This makes it easier to fasten the forestay at the turnbuckle (probably the worst part of the whole operation). Once the forestay is secure, ease the mainsheet and then the jib halyard. Lowering the mast is the exact reverse. Good luck. Unfortunately I have no pictures of the rig in operation. That'll have to wait until the next time I drop the mast...maybe in a month or so. Until then, happy holidays. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Peter, THx for the Pix
Peter, The Pictures said a thousand words (Punn?) anyway, very helpful and will cause me to re-think my approach to mast raising.. /Chuck S/V Windsongs H23
Peter, The Pictures said a thousand words (Punn?) anyway, very helpful and will cause me to re-think my approach to mast raising.. /Chuck S/V Windsongs H23
Great Idea
Peter: Built and tried out your "rig" just the other day. What a great idea. I used mine on a 22' Hunter which I hauled out of the water because of a leak. Your rig works great for lower the mast also. Thanks for sharing your idea with us.
Peter: Built and tried out your "rig" just the other day. What a great idea. I used mine on a 22' Hunter which I hauled out of the water because of a leak. Your rig works great for lower the mast also. Thanks for sharing your idea with us.
Thanks...here's an "action" shot
Hopefully, the resolution will be good enough for you to zoom in and see the connections a bit better. In reviewing my post I found a couple of errors. Nothing earth-shattering, but they detract from the performance of the rig a bit. First, the A-frame legs can be longer than I had made them, in fact they can go all the way to the bow pulpit. Just make sure you still have enough room to reach the forestay comfortably. The mainsheet may try to cleat itself when lowering the mast. I run the sheet under the bow anchor cleat (it's on the foredeck behind the anchor locker) so that it's too low to engage the cleat. If you don't have a cleat there, any other cleat on the foredeck should work, as long as you can snap the line out quickly to cleat the sheet if you have to. I find it easier to raise and lower the mast with the wind coming the side. That way I can stand on the leeward side of the mast (on top of the main hatch) and lean against it to keep it in place without using my hands. However, there IS a risk of being pushed off the boat by a sudden gust, so if you're not as beefy as I am, it's probably better to point the boat into the wind when raising or lowering the mast. Best of luck, and happy mast raising. Peter H23 "Raven"
Hopefully, the resolution will be good enough for you to zoom in and see the connections a bit better. In reviewing my post I found a couple of errors. Nothing earth-shattering, but they detract from the performance of the rig a bit. First, the A-frame legs can be longer than I had made them, in fact they can go all the way to the bow pulpit. Just make sure you still have enough room to reach the forestay comfortably. The mainsheet may try to cleat itself when lowering the mast. I run the sheet under the bow anchor cleat (it's on the foredeck behind the anchor locker) so that it's too low to engage the cleat. If you don't have a cleat there, any other cleat on the foredeck should work, as long as you can snap the line out quickly to cleat the sheet if you have to. I find it easier to raise and lower the mast with the wind coming the side. That way I can stand on the leeward side of the mast (on top of the main hatch) and lean against it to keep it in place without using my hands. However, there IS a risk of being pushed off the boat by a sudden gust, so if you're not as beefy as I am, it's probably better to point the boat into the wind when raising or lowering the mast. Best of luck, and happy mast raising. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Let's try that again, with the photo this time
Sorry, the photo didn't upload. Lemme try again. Peter H23 "Raven"
Sorry, the photo didn't upload. Lemme try again. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Still not there?
Peter, Thanks Much but I'm still can't see the photo.. (broken picture icon on both netscape and ie) have you contacted Phil Herring? /Chuck SV Windsongs H23
Peter, Thanks Much but I'm still can't see the photo.. (broken picture icon on both netscape and ie) have you contacted Phil Herring? /Chuck SV Windsongs H23
Not sure what the problem is
Sorry I didn't respond sooner but I've been very busy. The picture uploaded OK both times but didn't appear. Seems like other people are having this problem as well. I'll check the archives first as I seem to recall this problem happening before. I'll be back soon. Peter H23 "Raven"
Sorry I didn't respond sooner but I've been very busy. The picture uploaded OK both times but didn't appear. Seems like other people are having this problem as well. I'll check the archives first as I seem to recall this problem happening before. I'll be back soon. Peter H23 "Raven"
Reply for Sam
If the mainsheet is long enough (mine is) you can stand on top of the main hatch and steady the mast with one hand. I've also raised the mast in a crosswind and leaned against it from the leeward side to keep it from straying. As long as one of the shrouds doesn't get fouled somewhere, it only takes about 30 seconds to raise the mast. Lowering it takes a little longer because you have to be careful not to miss the rear support. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
If the mainsheet is long enough (mine is) you can stand on top of the main hatch and steady the mast with one hand. I've also raised the mast in a crosswind and leaned against it from the leeward side to keep it from straying. As long as one of the shrouds doesn't get fouled somewhere, it only takes about 30 seconds to raise the mast. Lowering it takes a little longer because you have to be careful not to miss the rear support. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
Conduit holder supports
Peter, Saw your "live action" shot. I'm impressed. Have a question though, Do the electrical conduit holders on the stanctions hold up to wind gusts? Looks as if the actual A frame is solid enough. Thank, /Chuck SV Windsongs H23
Peter, Saw your "live action" shot. I'm impressed. Have a question though, Do the electrical conduit holders on the stanctions hold up to wind gusts? Looks as if the actual A frame is solid enough. Thank, /Chuck SV Windsongs H23
Reply to Chuck
I've lowered the mast singlehanded twice (not by choice) in winds over 30 mph. Both times I stood on the leeward side of the mast to keep it from blowing sideways. The conduit supports held up fine. I think the worst loading situation is when the forestay is being tightened or loosened. The mainsheet tackle is very tight and the A-frames are being pushed back against the stanchions. Peter H23 "Raven"
I've lowered the mast singlehanded twice (not by choice) in winds over 30 mph. Both times I stood on the leeward side of the mast to keep it from blowing sideways. The conduit supports held up fine. I think the worst loading situation is when the forestay is being tightened or loosened. The mainsheet tackle is very tight and the A-frames are being pushed back against the stanchions. Peter H23 "Raven"
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